What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Sika 207 vs 209 primer

1bigdog

Well Known Member
In discussion with a Sika rep a fellow builder was advised 207 may be a better choice for the application rather than 209.

207 appears to be the auto-glass variant where
209 is for marine application.

207 is the only primer required for both metals and the acrylic rather than multiple primers.

209 has a caveat about UV whereas 207 does not in the data sheet.

Has anyone been using 207? Any comments or concerns?

Thanks.
 
still wondering about 207 vs 209

Hi Noah

I read the whole thread and many others.
Too much anecdote and too little fact.

I think we agree that's where we are trying to get to.

I was very specific with Sika and I consider their responses relatively specific (given they have no aviation application). 209 is specific to the acrylic. I am bonding to bare aluminum and steel. 207 does all 3. In the sika chart preparation requires 3 things to bond to all 3;

scuffing, 205 and 207. The rep was helpful in that they provided the specific areas from their marine application data and from their auto-glass references (their tips & tricks). Their conclusion was largely that 210 was not required, and 207 was the preferred solution for using 295UV.

We are where we are because the adhesive qualities appear to be such that some people are being complacent because it works well as there has not been an incident. I am stripping the powder coat off to make sure adhesion is as intended.

The question still remains if we have experience with 207 vs 209.

This isn't meant to be a debate rather a fact finding question (and yes, I understand the irony of that statement).

Thanks for all the help.

Michael
 
bonding to what?

Most people on the forum are using Sikaflex to bond the canopy or windscreen to the roll bar or canopy frame.

Are you saying that you are using Sikaflex to glue aluminum and steel?

That might explain the disconnect.

For plastic to the steel frames, I've used SIKA PRIMER-209 N.
 
Sika suggest different primers for different substrates but you are still gluing organic glass to whatever substrate so I am with Mickey - 209N.


BTW - is this a different primer wars or the same as usual ;-)
 
sorry for the disconnect

Most people on the forum are using Sikaflex to bond the canopy or windscreen to the roll bar or canopy frame.

Are you saying that you are using Sikaflex to glue aluminum and steel?

That might explain the disconnect.

For plastic to the steel frames, I've used SIKA PRIMER-209 N.


Hi RV8

sorry if I was not clear. I'm bonding the acrylic to the the bare steel frame, and I thought some had bonded the aluminum skirts to the canopy as well.
In your case I'm assuming you only used 209 because you left on powder coat.

Hope that clarifies.

Michael
 
not a primer war

Sika suggest different primers for different substrates but you are still gluing organic glass to whatever substrate so I am with Mickey - 209N.


BTW - is this a different primer wars or the same as usual ;-)

I swear, I'm peaceful. No primer war intended.
Sika rep recommended 207 over 209 given bonding acrylic to bare steel, and acrylic to bare aluminum. So I was just asking about 207 experience.

Cheers.
 
Any updates?

Hi
Any further info on this topic?
I am bonding canopy to bare metal. I have the 209d to use on the canopy sides but should I use 207 on the metal sides or is 209d ok?

Reilly
 
Try this as a compare and contrast...


2019082117195214--5624101019139910835-IMG_6648-M.jpg
 
209N

Hi
Any further info on this topic?
I am bonding canopy to bare metal. I have the 209d to use on the canopy sides but should I use 207 on the metal sides or is 209d ok?

Reilly

Hi Reilly

When I originally posted I anticipated bonding to bare metal. There had been some discussion on the board about older generations of powdercoat delaminating. In my case the powdercoat was done very well. Maybe they improved in later years. I ended up scuffing, using aktivator and 209N with very good results.

I also tested this with acrylic coupons against bare steel and aluminum using a 1/2" square attach point and tested that to 50 pound pull at varying thicknesses from 1/16", 1/8" and 3/16" sikaflex and never failed. Also tested in 30 degree C differential with same results. So, powdercoated, bare aluminum or steel I'm pretty happy about the results. Not flying yet with it but much prefer this over hundreds of tiny stress points.

Hope that helps.
 
Back
Top