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Creased edge while using edge rolling tool.

mfleming

Well Known Member
Patron
So I've creased the edge of my RV-7 aileron skin using the Cleveland edge rolling tool.

In an effort to prevent the tool from rolling off the edge, I obviously was putting too much force on the tool and it rode up up onto the skin putting a crease in its path.

Any suggestions if this is fixable?

Heres a photo:
 

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With the emphasis on gently.

If you have a set of seaming pliers or a set of parallel jaw pliers you could try those too.
 
Tap it out on a wood block with a wood block and hammer so you won't stretch the aluminum.

You can press out a crease with a table spoon and a little lube.
 
I have done this exact same thing. It's not too bad to fix. I used seaming pliers to bend it back to shape by inserting the bend into the side of the pliers and giving it a good solid squeeze. Resist the urge to use the pliers as a bending brake as you could make it worse.

My pliers didn't get the bend 100% straight but it got it really close, so I used a very small hammer and gentle taps against a wood block to straighten it out to normal.

Then, go back and roll / break your edges again.
 
With the emphasis on gently.

If you have a set of seaming pliers or a set of parallel jaw pliers you could try those too.

Yes, gently... When I slipped with the edge break, I immediately tried re-rolling the tool over the offending area and made it worse. I should have stopped and evaluated the part and proceeded GENTLY :rolleyes:
 
I have done this exact same thing. It's not too bad to fix. I used seaming pliers to bend it back to shape by inserting the bend into the side of the pliers and giving it a good solid squeeze. Resist the urge to use the pliers as a bending brake as you could make it worse.

My pliers didn't get the bend 100% straight but it got it really close, so I used a very small hammer and gentle taps against a wood block to straighten it out to normal.

Then, go back and roll / break your edges again.

That sounds like a good plan!

The edge break tool was trying to roll off the aluminum and I was compensating so hard on preventing that, I really made a mess :eek:

In hindsight, I will start with less pressure on the rollers and make multiple passes.
 
When using the vice grip edge breaker, you are not looking for any real pressure. You should be able to do your break with one pass. Set the rollers so that they are the thickness of the material apart. Just put the parallel part of the rollers over the edge,then adjust so they roll easily. Then lock them off. Open and get them to the full depth, then close them. I found the best result was obtained by holding them in position, then using my other hand to roll the rollers slowly along the edge. You really do only need one pass to get the (very slight) edge break you are looking for. They are not a force forming roller, just a couple of shaped wheels that impart a nice shape to the edge. I had similar difficulties at first attempt, but once I worked them out, I swear by them, not at them.
Hope you can make sense of my long winded description. Good luck
Regards, DaveH:)
 
Try reducing pressure on the rollers and go slow and you will get a nice edge. Whatever method you try for the repair, be sure it does not stretch the aluminum. Make the same mistake on some scraps and try fixing them first.
 
Try reducing pressure on the rollers and go slow and you will get a nice edge. Whatever method you try for the repair, be sure it does not stretch the aluminum. Make the same mistake on some scraps and try fixing them first.

Really good idea!! Thanks :)
 
When using the vice grip edge breaker, you are not looking for any real pressure. You should be able to do your break with one pass. Set the rollers so that they are the thickness of the material apart. Just put the parallel part of the rollers over the edge,then adjust so they roll easily. Then lock them off. Open and get them to the full depth, then close them. I found the best result was obtained by holding them in position, then using my other hand to roll the rollers slowly along the edge. You really do only need one pass to get the (very slight) edge break you are looking for. They are not a force forming roller, just a couple of shaped wheels that impart a nice shape to the edge. I had similar difficulties at first attempt, but once I worked them out, I swear by them, not at them.
Hope you can make sense of my long winded description. Good luck
Regards, DaveH:)

Thank you Dave, that was a very clear description.

Yes, I had them too tight.
 
are these a needed item? just loading up tools and want to get the correct ones


Neal,
I would highly recommend that you get a set of these edge breakers / rollers.

I personally use this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Edge-Forming-Tool/productinfo/EF60/

But I have seen others use and like this one as well: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/EDGE-ROLLING-TOOL/productinfo/1042/

Both of those accomplish the same thing: The put a very small bend in the very edge of skins that will be overlapping each other. This way, when you rivet the two skins together, the pressure from the riveting doesn't cause the skins to "bow" or lift away from each other.

The EAA has a neat video on this: http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=18987862001
 
In my head I refer to that edge rolling tool as "Merciless Destroyer of Skins" to help remind myself each and every time to be patient with it and take it slow. I found the adjustment to be very finicky--it's either in "does nothing" mode or "metal mangle" mode. If you don't draw it down the length of the work piece straight, you'll either get an angled bend (if you pull laterally out too much) or it will "jump the rail" and crease the piece (if you push it in). Takes some skill and practice for sure.
 
Fixed The Edge

Thanks for all the help!

I fixed the edge of the skin today. I used two hardwood blocks I had made for adjusting the trailing edge of the other aileron (per Van's section 5).

I followed a recommendation to cause a similar crease on a test piece of aluminum. This was easy since my Cleveland edge tool was still adjusted to tight.

I then practiced using the hardwood blocks to get most of the crease out. Then I use the table spoon with oil trick...WOW that works great!!

With fairly high confidence, I repaired the aileron skin using the same methods.

Here's a link to a video of the repair: https://youtu.be/odRe9k79eAE

Thanks again for all the help, it saved the day :D
 
I ended up throwing these edge rolling toys in the bin.
Get a two by one inch by six inches long piece of timber. Get your hand woodsaw and cut a slot to the depth you need on one end and just work your way along the edge. Far more control, no stretch and fast.
 
Burnishing tool and hammers

A burnishing tool gives you more control and the ability to apply more pressure than a table/tea spoon. They're designed for blending out surface defects in aluminum and are highly polished. All aircraft hand tool suppliers sell them.

I would also recommend before tapping any aluminum with a hammer that you polish the head of the hammer to remove any surface imperfections that will be transferred the the material being struck.
 
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Neal,
I would highly recommend that you get a set of these edge breakers / rollers.

I personally use this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Edge-Forming-Tool/productinfo/EF60/

But I have seen others use and like this one as well: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/EDGE-ROLLING-TOOL/productinfo/1042/

Both of those accomplish the same thing: The put a very small bend in the very edge of skins that will be overlapping each other. This way, when you rivet the two skins together, the pressure from the riveting doesn't cause the skins to "bow" or lift away from each other.

The EAA has a neat video on this: http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=18987862001

Thank you sir..
 
Gently tap this out flat with a small ball peen hammer on an anvil.

Carl

If you do that you will stretch the metal. Do NOT hammer this between steel and steel. if you squish aluminum between 2 things that are harder then something will have to give, and it will be the aluminum. So you need to hammer on wood, or hammer with a nylon hammer. You have to make sure your skin is not the softest thing in the equation.

I have done some English wheel work in aluminum and have had a bit of training - enough to be dangerous. When panel beaters are hammering out dents, then will hammer "off-dolly" to avoid stretching - that means they put the dolly on a low spot and they hammer (or slap with a slapper) on an adjacent high spot. This forces the metal together, shrinking it. The sound is a dull thud. If they hammer "on-dolly", they are trying to bring up a low spot i.e. stretch. To figure out of you are off or on dolly you tap around until you hear the right sound. Dull thud for off-dolly, and "tink" high pitched metal on metal sound for on-dolly. "tink" is the sound of metal stretching. Do that to your skin and you are sunk. Also, 2024 can't really be hammered that much or it cracks. I've never heard of the spoon trick - that's awesome!
 
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