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Static Tubing Mounting

mfleming

Well Known Member
Patron
I'm ready to run my static tubing but have run into some unanswered questions.

I like this method for clamping the static tubing:

OK, so I see you have to link pictures from other sites. Here's a photo of how I use the mounting ties. Nothing special, but it is cheap, easy and fast.
d91059f2.jpg

But then I read a post from Walt that said this:

I always cringe when I see un-filled holes in primary structure (this includes any non-structural fastener like pop rivets or screws) unless the structure was designed with those holes.

If you don't have approval from engineering, I would refrain from randomly drilling holes in primary structure (which the longerons definately are) :eek:

Perhaps I missed where Van's has approved this on the prints somewhere or said it's ok?

Then Walt said this but I haven't found the answer.

I understand your rational, however, just because Van's sells conduit and you need to run some wires doesn't necessarily mean they are automatically giving you approval to drill holes for the conduit anywhere you feel like. I believe in the past I have seen approval for holes in bulkheads and ribs for just this purpose.

I may just send Van's an email and ask for some guidance on this to pass on to the group. I know in the world I grew up in, drilling holes in primary structure without some type of approval would get you in lots of hot water.

There are also levels of primary structure, some are more critical than others. The primary fore/aft longeron is likely a more critical part than a bulkhead or rib in this case. Would you drill a hole in your spar or motor mount because it was convenient to do so?

Edit: I just reviewed the RV7 drawing for attaching clips to the longeron for the static lines, Van's specifies using aluminum brackets attached with AD3 rivets. If they thought it was ok to just drill holes in the flange and use pop rivets or wire tyes they likely would have specified it that way.

Has this been settled? As an aside,I can't find the -7 drawing that shows the metal clip and rivet as described in Walts edit.
 
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My take

My RV7/9 fuse plans shows the sheet metal clips for the static line. My interpretation is this needs to use an existing rivet hole with a slightly longer rivet if needed.
 
My RV7/9 fuse plans shows the sheet metal clips for the static line. My interpretation is this needs to use an existing rivet hole with a slightly longer rivet if needed.

I've spent an inordinate amount of time looking for this detail in my plans and no joy... EDIT: OK, found it on DWG 25. The plans don't address the attachment to the bulkhead so the question below still stands.

BUT the question remains, is drilling the bulkhead and longeron for mounting the static line acceptable ?
 
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Existing

With all those existing rivets in the longerons every 1” or so, why would anyone need to drill more?
Now my question how does the static line get thru the seat back bulkhead? Still scratching my head. Oh and by the way I think the plans have a mistake on what side to put the static line hole for the rear baggage bulkhead.
 
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With all those existing rivets in the longerons every 1? or so, why would anyone need to drill more?
Now my question how does the static line get thru the seat back bulkhead? Still scratching my head. Oh and by the way I think the plans have a mistake on what side to put the static line hole for the rear baggage bulkhead.

Having a QB fuselage I'm looking for an alternative to drilling out those longeron rivets for simple hangers... There's always the danger with rivets in thicker material on messing them up :eek:
 
Hey Mike!

The answer to the bulkhead question is in Rviator from 2006! Should of course be in the plans but this is an RV-7....

If you have 27 years of Rviator it's in the section on instruments. Basically its ok to drill a 1/4 inch hole through the doubler at the top of F-704 and feed the line through without any snap bushings. The bulkhead is thick enough, and the plastic line tough enough, that chafing protection is not required.

I can't help much with the decision to drill out rivets on the Longeron. It's never nice to remove good rivets but there are always oops rivets if it doesn't go to plan.
 
Having a QB fuselage I'm looking for an alternative to drilling out those longeron rivets for simple hangers... There's always the danger with rivets in thicker material on messing them up :eek:

Get some instruction. It's a skill all builders should learn during the "educational" part of building an experimental. Longerons are not thick for an AD3. 1/2" is thick. (done it).
 
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Hey Mike!

The answer to the bulkhead question is in Rviator from 2006! Should of course be in the plans but this is an RV-7....

If you have 27 years of Rviator it's in the section on instruments. Basically its ok to drill a 1/4 inch hole through the doubler at the top of F-704 and feed the line through without any snap bushings. The bulkhead is thick enough, and the plastic line tough enough, that chafing protection is not required.

I can't help much with the decision to drill out rivets on the Longeron. It's never nice to remove good rivets but there are always oops rivets if it doesn't go to plan.

Thanks Ed...I see there's some free downloads for Rviator on Van's site but they don't appear to have the entire 27 years (nor 2006)...Where does one find the entire collection?
Plus hopefully they explain how to get the static tubing by the center section without having to drop down to the floor :confused:
 
Michael:

This is how I hold my static lines in place in my RV-8. No drilling needed. Cable clamps have held up for 13 years to date. Buy online at RadioShack.com Part #2781640


Original cable clamps added 13 years ago.


radioshack.com part #2781640
 
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