Blind rivets for top forward skin

Hi gang,

I've read previous threads in the archives about using blind rivets in parts of the top forward skin because of lack of access once everything's wired up. I'm building a slider and am planning on having to do this also in my slider. The side rivets on the longerons I can get to, along with the firewall and most aft rivets. But a good number of the forward rivets connecting to the 3 subpanel ribs will have to be blind because of access constraints, even for my spidery hands.

I know Cherry rivets are appropriate here. But do they /have/ to be CherryMax? I've got a large surplus of AACQ-4-4's sitting around that seem perfect for this. Can't I just drill those holes out to #30, redimple, and use those rivets?

Dont give up yet.

I just did this yesterday. My back is aching from the contortions but i was able to get to all of them. I used a small tungsten bar and an LED headlamp.

X2 on the Tungsten bar, I talked my son into going under and buck ;-) we were able to buck all but 4 per side where the Roll bar bolts were.

Yeah, been using a tungsten bar myself the whole project. I'm sure I'll be able to get a good number of those rivets after channeling my inner snake. But crawling into the very back of the tailcone to rivet on that top skin was fun enough. And I don't have a young kid around for slave labor.

Still, there are a few that had to be blind. Are the AACQ's fine for those?

I have seen quite a few RVs with the front skins blind riveted on using the regular blind rivets from Vans and they have been around a long time with no ill effects that I have seen.

I did blind rivet this area, but used Cherry Max exclusively. I have back issues and didn't want to risk two weeks of pain afterward. You might want to consider using Cherry Max rivets along the longerons though. The AACQs are very soft rivets. Keep that in mind.

Not worried about longerons, I can reach those. I'm only worried about the ones on the 3 ribs that my tungsten bar probably can't reach because a box or some random thick wire bundle will be in the way.

I'd consider using MK319 Monel pop rivets. I don't know if they still do, but Vans used to specify them as an acceptable substitute for skin-to-rib attachments where you couldn't buck an AD426AD3. They fit in the 426-3 countersink, though you have to drill up to #34 for their 7/64" shanks. Vans sells them, or I can send you a few on behalf of the HP-24 Project.

As usual, try one on a piece of scrap before committing to using lots of them.

Thanks, Bob K.