Elevator trim access panel 616PP

RV-10 PAGE 11-10
STEP 3

"Step 3: Thread the E-616PP Cover Plate - Elevator Trim/ WD-415 Elevator Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Sub- Assemblies on to the CT Q-43 Elevator Trim Cables. Adjust so that the elevator trim cable anchor brackets are centered on the 7/16 threaded portion of the elevator trim cable anchor points. Attach the cover plates to the bottoms of the elevators."

Was able to get the left one on but I don't have enough clearance on the right one to thread the nut and attached plate around the cable. The cable is shorter on the right side due to the geometry of the system. Seems like drilling the rivets and removing the nut, threading it on and then re-riveting the plate back onto the nut may be the easiest approach. Suggestions??

I found that I needed to disconnect the trim servo mounting bracket F-1095A from the tail cone by removing the 4 screws holding it in place, in order to have enough slack in the cable to screw it onto the cable anchor bracket.

Also, I needed to adjust the amount threaded onto the anchor bracket after attaching it and checking the trim tab travel, in order to get the 35 deg. deflection called for in Fig. 3 on page 11-10.

One other note: The trim tabs do not both move uniformly as you adjust the trim. One tab moves more than the other, and one can even change directions at the top of travel while the other is still coming up. I talked to Van's Support and they confirmed that this is normal for the RV-10.

Cheers,

Blizzard said:

RV-10 PAGE 11-10
STEP 3

"Step 3: Thread the E-616PP Cover Plate - Elevator Trim/ WD-415 Elevator Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Sub- Assemblies on to the CT Q-43 Elevator Trim Cables. Adjust so that the elevator trim cable anchor brackets are centered on the 7/16 threaded portion of the elevator trim cable anchor points. Attach the cover plates to the bottoms of the elevators."

Was able to get the left one on but I don't have enough clearance on the right one to thread the nut and attached plate around the cable. The cable is shorter on the right side due to the geometry of the system. Seems like drilling the rivets and removing the nut, threading it on and then re-riveting the plate back onto the nut may be the easiest approach. Suggestions??

Click to expand...

I did exactly as you described. I threaded it on and then popped the rivets in.

I also had to disconnect the electric trim mount to push enough cable back to rotate the right side. I was distorting the access panel considerably to get the nut threaded. Additionally, after centering on the nut, reattaching everything and moving forward I had to again disconnect the electric trim mount and run the cable back in on the access panel nut to get the trim adjusted correctly.

If you drill out the access panel nut rivets it might be good to go through the full trim adjustment with a temporary nut hold/cleco/clamp, adjust accordingly, then add the rivets back to the access plate.

As it turns out I ended up ordering the one piece billets from Iflyrv10.com and two new 616 panels. I'll fit everything up, thread the billets on the control cable, cleco, adjust and then eventually blind rivet it all together. Thanks for the comments. Always nice to get different perspectives.

ditto

I to had to disconnect the trim servo so as to have enough slack in the cable to screw on the mounting bracket. I had to do this at least twice during rigging. My plane is unpainted at this time so I foresee doing it again for paint.

If I were to do it again I would consider installing PEM nuts or the appropriate AN365 lock nut here when re-installing. At least on the right side. This thread discusses this http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=70099

Also, there was a thread many years ago on the matronics list about trim rigging. if you setup the trim tab rigging per plans the left side trim tab at times can raise up above neutral while the right one is down which can cause a twist in the elevators during flight. Van's says that is per design and does not cause an issue. Many have adjusted the rigging so that the left trim tab cannot go above neutral to prevent the twist. If you choose to do this you most certainly will be adjusting the cables once again. Tim O's site has a recap of it on his tips page here https://www.myrv10.com/tips/trimming/index.html#Watch_for_this_Elevator_Trim_Issue

When the parts get here my plan is to attach them using screws and nuts this time. Should make removal and reinstall much easier in the future. I have seen the article you mentioned and have bookmarked it for future reference. Thanks for all the help.