Lycoming Total Oil Capacity?

I got my Lycoming 360 parallel valve back from overhaul and wish to store it until my build catches up. The mechanic suggested filling it full of oil to purge all the air and reduce chance of corrosion (and then wrapping in a plastic bag with dessicant packs). I am looking for a ballpark figure to help me purchase the right amount of oil. Anyone done this and remember?

Jerald King
SE AZ

This keeps coming up, but you cannot fill a 4 cyl Lycoming full enough of oil to submerge the camshaft. There is no vent near the top of the case to burp the air out, at least not if it?s an upright position.
Tim Andres

In a Pickle...

jking said:

I got my Lycoming 360 parallel valve back from overhaul and wish to store it until my build catches up. The mechanic suggested filling it full of oil to purge all the air and reduce chance of corrosion (and then wrapping in a plastic bag with dessicant packs). I am looking for a ballpark figure to help me purchase the right amount of oil. Anyone done this and remember?

Jerald King
SE AZ

Click to expand...

Jerald,
It takes about 9qts to fill the engine but a good technique from my own experience is to plug the crankcase vent and invert it. I've also seen guys remove a spark plug from each cylinder, fill it with oil and replace the plug.
Here is the SB from Lycoming outlining proper care and feeding (and storage) of an engine. Enjoy...
V/R
Smokey

November 13, 2001
TO:
All Owners and Operators of Textron Lycoming Aircraft Engines
SUBJECT:
Engine Preservation for Active and Stored Aircraft Engines in aircraft that are flown only occasionally may not achieve normal service life because of corrosion. This occurs when moisture from the air and products of combustion combine to attack cylinder walls and bearing surfaces during periods when the aircraft is not used. The procedures for combating this
condition consist of coating the vulnerable surfaces with rust inhibitive compounds as herein described.
NOTE
Need for preservation must be evaluated by the owner or operator of the aircraft based on environmental conditions and frequency of aircraft activity. The time periods given are
recommendations based on normal conditions.
Our experience has shown that in regions of high humidity, active corrosion can be found on cylinder walls of new engines inoperative for periods as brief as two days. In engines that have accumulated 50 hours or more time in service in a short period, the cylinder walls will have acquired a varnish that tends to protect them from corrosive action; such engines under favorable atmospheric conditions can remain inactive for
several weeks without evidence of damage by corrosion.
Aircraft operated close to oceans, lakes, rivers and in humid regions have a greater need for engine preservation than engines operated in arid regions.

ACTIVE ENGINES:
Engine temperature and length of operating time are very important in controlling rust and corrosion. The desired flight time for air cooled engines is at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165°F to 200°F at intervals not to exceed 30 days, depending on location and storage conditions. This one hour does not include taxi, take-off and landing time. If recommended oil temperatures are not obtainable, contact
aircraft manufacturer for availability of oil cooler winterization plates.
The aircraft temperature gages should be checked to make sure that they are accurate.
The cooling air baffles need to be in good condition and fitted properly to assure proper cooling air flow.
The oil cooler system needs to be of the proper size for the engine and airframe installation. Oil coolers that are sized incorrectly can cause over-heating or below minimum temperatures. Low temperatures are
just as harmful as high temperatures due to build-up of water and acids.
© 2001 by Textron Lycoming ?All Rights Reserved? and we mean it **** it!
Page 1 of 4

Service Letter No. L180B
Oil changes are very important in minimizing rust and corrosion. Reference latest revision of Textron Lycoming Service Bulletin No. 480 for recommended oil/filter change intervals and procedures.
Pulling engines through by hand when the aircraft is not run or flown for a week or so is not recommended. Pulling the engine through by hand prior to start or to minimize rust and corrosion does more harm than good. The cylinder walls, piston, rings, cam and cam follower only receive splash and vapor lubrication. When the prop is pulled through by hand, the rings wipe oil from cylinder walls. The cam load created by the valve train wipes oil off the cam and followers. After two or three times of pulling the engine through by hand without engine starts, the cylinders, cam and followers are left without a proper oil film.
Starting engines without proper lubrication can cause scuffing and scoring of parts resulting in excessive wear.

INACTIVE ENGINES:
If it is known that an aircraft is to remain inactive for 30 or more days, the following procedure should be applied to the engine, especially if the aircraft is located near salt water or similar humid environment.
1. Install a preservative by one of the following methods:
a. Drain the lubricating oil from the sump or system and replace with a preservative oil mixture. This preservation mixture consists of one part by volume MIL-C-6529C Type I concentrated preservative compound added to three parts by volume of MIL-L-6082C (SAE J1966), Grade 1100, mineral aircraft engine oil or oil conforming to MIL-C-6529C Type II. Follow carefully the manufacturer?s instructions before use.
b. An alternative method is the use of Cortec VC1-326 preservative concentrate added to the original oil at a ratio of 1 part VC1-326 to 10 parts of oil.
2. Operate the engine until normal temperatures are obtained.
Do not stop engine until oil temperature has attained 180°F (82°C). If weather conditions are below freezing, oil temperature should reach at least 165°F (73°C) before shut down.
3. Remove sufficient cowling to gain access to the top spark plugs and remove them.
4. Through the spark plug hole, spray the interior of each cylinder with approximately two ounces of the preservative oil mixture using an airless spray gun (Spraying Systems Co., Gunjet Model 24A-8395 or equivalent). In the event an airless spray gun is not available, a moisture trap may be installed in the air line of a conventional spray gun.
5. Reinstall spark plugs and do not turn crankshaft after cylinders have been sprayed.
NOTE
Oils of the type mentioned are to be used in Lycoming aircraft engines for preservation only and not for lubrication. See the latest revision of Textron Lycoming Service Instruction No.
1014 for recommended lubricating oil.
Page 2 of 4

Service Letter No. L180B
6. If the aircraft is stored in a region of high humidity, or near a sea coast, it is better to use dehydrator plugs instead of merely replacing the spark plugs as directed in the preceding step. Cylinder dehydrator plugs, MS-27215-2 or equivalent may be used.
7. Preferably before the engine has cooled, install small bags of desiccant in exhaust and intake ports and seal with moisture impervious material and pressure sensitive tape. Any other opening from the engine to the atmosphere, such as the breather, and any pad from which an accessory is removed,
should likewise be sealed.
Desiccant may be obtained through a Textron Lycoming distributor using the following part numbers:
Part No. 40249 = 1/2 lb. Desiccant
Part No. 40249-1 = 1 lb. Desiccant
Part No. 40249-2 = 1/8 lb. Desiccant
Part No. 40249-3 = 1/4 lb. Desiccant
8. Firmly attach red cloth streamers to any desiccant bags installed in the intake and exhaust passages to insure material is removed when the engine is made ready for flight. Streamers should be visible from outside the aircraft. Propeller should be tagged, ?Engine preserved ? do not turn propeller?.
9. At 15-day maximum intervals, a periodic check should be made of the cylinder dehydrator plugs and desiccant. When the color of the desiccant has turned from blue to pink the preservation procedure must be repeated.
10. To return the aircraft to service, remove seals, tape, and desiccant bags. Use a solvent to remove tape residue. Remove spark plugs or dehydrator plugs. With the magnetos off rotate the propeller by hand through sufficient rotation to remove excess preservative oil from the cylinders. Drain the remaining
preservative from the engine through the sump.
WARNING
TO PREVENT SERIOUS BODILY INJURY OR DEATH, BEFORE MOVING THE PROPELLER TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS TO PREVENT THE FIRING OF THE ENGINE. DISCONNECT SPARK PLUG LEADS; INSURE MAGNETOS ARE SWITCHED OFF AND P-LEADS ARE GROUNDED; INSURE THAT THE THROTTLE IS CLOSED AND THE MIXTURE IS IN ?IDLE CUT-OFF?. DO NOT STAND WITHIN THE ARC OF THE BLADE. EVEN WITHOUT SPARK, COMPRESSION CAN CAUSE THE PROPELLER TO MOVE WITH SUFFICIENT FORCE TO CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY.
Install spark plugs and reconnect all parts in accordance with manufacturer?s instructions. Service the
engine with approved lubricating oil.
NOTE
Although the above procedures should prevent corrosion under favorable conditions, it is recommended that the engine be periodically inspected for evidence of corrosion.
The foregoing are general recommendations for proper engine care. Since local conditions may differ and Textron Lycoming has no control over the application of these recommendations, no warranty against corrosion is intended.
Page 3 of 4

Service Letter No. L180B
NOTE
1. Cortec Corp. - manufactures preservative oils
4119 White Bear Parkway
St. Paul, MN 55510
Phone: 612-429-1100
800-4-CPORTEC
Fax: 612-429-1122
2. Protect Air Mfgs. - MS27215-2 plugs
Fernandina Beach, FL 32034
Phone: 904-261-0601
Fax:


PS:When I was a kid my Dad bought 2 "pickled" Military 0-290D Super Cub engines pickled with cosmoline and dessicant spark plugs and over 40 years in a crate untouched. When we disassembled it everything was shiny and new inside, no rust.

Shoulda mentioned

that I had planned on inverting it and filling, but didn't want to lose that much real estate in my shop. (Sorry to tax people with recurrent threads.) I asked my engine builder if storing in nose down on an engine stand would allow the the cam to be submerged and he said that would work also. Now I can roll it around out of the way and clean up the spider webs!
Also have the dessicant plugs in the cylinders and may put dessicant packs in the intake and exhaust ports.
And thanks, Smokey, I've researched the Lycoming viewpoint but 9 qts only? I thought it would surely take 4 gallons or so.

Jerald King
SE AZ

jking said:

that I had planned on inverting it and filling, but didn't want to lose that much real estate in my shop. (Sorry to tax people with recurrent threads.) I asked my engine builder if storing in nose down on an engine stand would allow the the cam to be submerged and he said that would work also. Now I can roll it around out of the way and clean up the spider webs!
Also have the dessicant plugs in the cylinders and may put dessicant packs in the intake and exhaust ports.
And thanks, Smokey, I've researched the Lycoming viewpoint but 9 qts only? I thought it would surely take 4 gallons or so.

Jerald King
SE AZ

Click to expand...

My understanding is that 4 gallons is a bit closer to the required amount. Smoky might have thought you were asking the amount to totally fill the oil sump.

The best way to do long term storage is with an automotive engine stand with the engine mounted in its normal horizontal position. This allows using just 8-10 quarts and slowly rotate the engine a few times every once and a while to coat all interior parts with oil (the cam and followers in particular).

I've done a couple of engines for long term storage. Mounted the engines on a modified Harbor Freight engine stand. Drained all of the oil I could get out. made plugs and port caps for all of the openings. Filled the engine crankcase with the cheapest oil Walmart sold. +/- 4 gallons if I recall. rotated the engine with a cylinder bank up, pulled the plugs and filled the cylinders. Put the plugs back in then rotated the engine with the opposite cylinder bank up and filled them also. Rotated the engine back to horizontal and topped off the crankcase oil. 5 years later I just drained all the oil, put in a new set of plugs and fired it up, no issues except a bit of smoke at first start.

I agree that the modified engine stand is a great way to store an engine. I am just very reluctant to give up that much floor space right now, though.
For future reference, however, it takes just over 6 gallons of oil to completely fill a 360 parallel valve sitting on its nose.


JKing
SE Arizona