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Rudder Leading Edge Rivets - To Dimple or not?

jchang10

Well Known Member
UPDATE: Please ignore this post. CS4-4 is not used on the leading edge. AD-41-ABS is. Sorry for the confusion!

Jae

It's not perfectly clear from the plans whether the holes for the rudder's leading edge should be dimpled or not for the CS4-4 blind rivets?

I made the assumption that since the CS4-4 rivets have a flat back surface on the machine head, that dimpling would not be appropriate.

However, a few paragraphs later for the counterbalance weight, for the CS4-4 rivet to prevent pillowing between the 2 #8 screws, the plans say to dimple the skin! That made me quite sick!

Should I have dimpled all those leading edge holes? If so, is it worth drilling them all out to make the rivets all flush?

Jae
 
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I can't speak for the -10, but the rudder l.e. rivets aren't visible on my -4. No point in dimpling. The vert. stab. skin extends back past the v.s. spar and covers that junction.

Jeff
 
Relax, you can't see them from the outside once the rudder is hung on the VS. You do need to compare the CS4-4 with the LP4-3 though, and check them against the drawings in Section 5. Vans or you may have mislabeled them. CS4-4 is countersunk/dimpled, LP4-3 is flush. I learned very early on make sure I clearly understand what is going on with every hole: size, cs or flush, fastner, leave open/untouched for now, etc. Very easy to go too fast and make a piece of scrap. The RV-10 "comic book" plans are not idiot-proof. Doesn't hurt to reread Section 5 in the notebook from time to time either, lots of people seem to have problems because they forgot about that part of the plans.
 
Yep - Good idea to check with Van's. Perhaps they made a mistake and mean't LP4-3's like the other RVs.
 
My Mistake! No Dimple

Thanks again. It was my mistake in re-reading the directions. I did do and read the directions correctly a couple of days ago.

Today, I mis-read the directions and thought the leading edge used CS4-4, when in fact, they use AD-41-ABS with the flat bottom head. Phew! Thus, no dimple, so I am okay.

The CS4-4 is only used for the one rivet to prevent pillowing between the two #8 screws.

Sorry for the confusion! Can I delete this post, so it does not clutter the forum?

Jae
 
CS4-4 is what is recommended

According to my plans (did this two weeks ago) on page 7-12 they call for a CS4-4, which looks like it fits a dimple. So I manually dimpled both pieces and inserted the CS4-4 into the hole, which is backed by a hole in the lead weight -- which I also countersunk for all three holes. Works/looks fine, even if it is more work...
 
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