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Rivet Bench Ideas

Freemasm

Well Known Member
Going to start building a work (rivet) bench this weekend. Any suggestions, ideas, lessons learned, plans, etc. would be greatly appreciated i.e. height, removable section for back riveting plate and/or C-frame. I'm assuming this is one of those projects that most would do differently if previous build experience was considered. Much thanks.
 
My primary suggestion is to have a LOT of mass and rigidity in the bench top. Mine was made from a section of maple bowling lane. 1" thick x ~3" wide strips of solid maple, joined butcher block fashion to make a 3" thick work surface.

Not important for riveting, but for dimpling using a C-frame, either make it massive and rigid or just put the C-frame on a concrete floor. Otherwise, you probably won't be happy with your dimples.

Size is largely driven by your work space. Mine is ~42" wide (bowling lane width) x ~58" long (the length of the piece of lane I had left from another project). It worked fine for me, even when doing final riveting of my wing skins.

Charlie
 
Castoring wheels are useful. Depending on your shop layout, it's helpful to be able to move the work around, rotate it, etc...

I think some people have even made them retractable.
 
EAA Benches

I built two EAA benches plus a third from the leftover. I would do it again.
I use a section of 1/4" plywood with a hole for the back rivet plate when needed. Pretty seldom used. The C-frame needs stability so it gets clamped over the legs when needed where force can go straight down.
 
I wouldn't mount anything to your benches. I built 3 tables and originally thought I would mount my grinder, sander, band saw and drill press to one, creating a movable "machining area." However, what I've determined, over the course of my build so far, is that it's far better to be able to move things around and set them up as needed. People that incorporate dimplers, back-riveting plates and other things into their tables quickly find that there is some compromise that's made because of how they mount those items. Keep things movable, is my advice.

Now, that doesn't mean you shouldn't think about how you're going to clamp things in place in order to use them. For instance, my DRDT2 dimpler clamps beautifully across my table, with a clamp on each side. I have a mat that I use with the back-riveting plate that's just the right thickness, so the material slides right across the plate. I have cross clamps that I use to secure items vertically across my tables. Also, my tables are able to be used in conjunction with each other (i.e. they can be set up side to side, or lengthwise with each other to turn into larger work surfaces.)
 
I just finished up a pair of benches for my wife to use with her stained glass work, based them on the EAA 1000 design. I did one slight modification which was to cut the 4'x8' plywood into a 4'x6' and a 2'x4'. modified the size of the support platforms to fit.

These turned out to be very sturdy and stable workbenches. For riveting, I would add a pair of legs to the long side of the 4'x6' bench just out to take any tendency to flex.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm
 
1000 tables

I have used 2 1000 tables that I carpeted for the last 2 years. I mounted a vice at one corner, mounted with lag screws for easy removal. worked out great.
 
Modified EAA Workbench

I took the EAA 1000 workbench and modified it. I increased the width and length to what I thought I needed. For the top I used 2 sheets of 3/4 thick plywood glued & screwed together then a final top sheet of 1/8? heat treated hardboard nailed on with finishing nails. When the hardboard gets too beat up I just peel it up and replace it with a new sheet of hardboard. Presto almost a new bench again. I also made sure there is a overhang for clamping too. I did add retractable wheels that I got off of Amazon. The wheels are not needed but an excellent addition. Make moving around the shop very easy. I made two of them so I can put them end to end for extra length or back to back for extra width if needed. I glued & screwed the workbenches together. They are VERY solid and will last a lifetime plus. I can get the dimensions if you are interested.
 
Bench mounting

I wouldn't mount anything to your benches. I built 3 tables and originally thought I would mount my grinder, sander, band saw and drill press to one, creating a movable "machining area." However, what I've determined, over the course of my build so far, is that it's far better to be able to move things around and set them up as needed. People that incorporate dimplers, back-riveting plates and other things into their tables quickly find that there is some compromise that's made because of how they mount those items. Keep things movable, is my advice.

Now, that doesn't mean you shouldn't think about how you're going to clamp things in place in order to use them. For instance, my DRDT2 dimpler clamps beautifully across my table, with a clamp on each side. I have a mat that I use with the back-riveting plate that's just the right thickness, so the material slides right across the plate. I have cross clamps that I use to secure items vertically across my tables. Also, my tables are able to be used in conjunction with each other (i.e. they can be set up side to side, or lengthwise with each other to turn into larger work surfaces.)

+1. I should have mentioned that. The two 1000 benches have predrilled holes for various tools like a vice, bending brake, etc but nothing permanently mounted. They get moved around a lot and sometimes removed. When the top gets rough, I coat it with drywall compound. Let dry and knock it off with 80 grit then smooth it with 220. New top.
The one 3'x4' bench has the drill press, grinder, band saw, vice and sander bolted in place. It stays in place.
 
I have three EAA 1000-type benches, two 2x6 and one 2x4 (eg all from one 4x8 sheet). I also modified the plans to make the benches a bit taller since I'm a tall guy.

The 2x4 is my power tool bench, with a bench grinder, drill press, and band saw mounted. The other two have the "retractable gear" mod for semi-easy repositioning as needed. One of the 4x6s also has my bench vice mounted on one end. That's about as far as I went towards making my benches non-generic in any way.

For C-frame dimpling, I built a frame out of 2x3s (I think that's what I used), with three cutouts where the C-frame can be placed, and carpet covering the rest. I just clamp this onto a work bench when doing dimpling. Said frame thing can be seen here: http://rv.squawk1200.net/2014/07/09/tank-attach-angles-c-frame-fixture/ and also here: http://rv.squawk1200.net/2014/09/02/skins-dimpled/

In retrospect, the three cutouts were overkill, I don't think I've ever used anything but the center one. Meanwhile, having some space in front of the dimple die would have been useful; sometimes I've had to get creative holding skins when dimpling an edge. But it's been perfectly serviceable.
 
If you are going to be pounding a C-Frame dimpler on your bench, add extra legs right under the C-Frame location to stop bouncing and make your whacks more effective. :)
 
Don't put your C-frame cutout in the middle -- put in two of 'em, each 1/3 of the way in. Gives you more flexibility for doing long part. Also, an R2D2 (whatever the correct part number is) squeezing dimpler is well worth the money, so much nicer than pounding on a rivet set with a C frame.
 
I built two of the standard EAA workbenches with the 2 in overhang all around as the only modification. I carpeted both of them with some commercial carpet about 1/4 in. thick. I have a back bucking plate that's 4 in. X 16 in. X 1/4 in. thick. I carved out a couple of sections out of the carpet using the plate as a template so I can drop it in when I need it. When I'm don't need it I put the carpet section back in place. Works great.

I also got a set of wheels (4) that are retractable. I installed two of them on one end of each table so I can move them like a wheelbarrow. They just kick into place when I need them. You can find them here.

I also built a movable power tools bench with my bench grinder, belt sander, drill press and band saw. It saves a lot of space and give you flexibility to move things around as needed. I'm very space challenged in my garage and this helps a lot.

I have details in my construction log if you're interested. The link is in my signature below.

... Also, an R2D2 (whatever the correct part number is) squeezing dimpler is well worth the money, so much nicer than pounding on a rivet set with a C frame.

+1

I might also add that the DRDT-2 makes it much easier to work solo when dimpling. You can use one hand on the part and one hand on the DRDT-2 handle. With a C-frame I had to use both hands on the frame. The DRDT-2 is simply more controllable.

There are some who claim the DRDT-2 doesn't produce as good a dimple as the C-frame. I believe those people didn't properly set up the device and that's why their dimples weren't as good. Take the time to get it set up right and your dimples will be as good or better than a C-frame. My dimples are perfect every time.
 
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I agree

I wouldn't mount anything to your benches. I built 3 tables and originally thought I would mount my grinder, sander, band saw and drill press to one, creating a movable "machining area." However, what I've determined, over the course of my build so far, is that it's far better to be able to move things around and set them up as needed. People that incorporate dimplers, back-riveting plates and other things into their tables quickly find that there is some compromise that's made because of how they mount those items. Keep things movable, is my advice.

Now, that doesn't mean you shouldn't think about how you're going to clamp things in place in order to use them. For instance, my DRDT2 dimpler clamps beautifully across my table, with a clamp on each side. I have a mat that I use with the back-riveting plate that's just the right thickness, so the material slides right across the plate. I have cross clamps that I use to secure items vertically across my tables. Also, my tables are able to be used in conjunction with each other (i.e. they can be set up side to side, or lengthwise with each other to turn into larger work surfaces.)


Even at an early stage in my build I agree with Mike on this. I built one long "assembly bench" and use another older bench for tools - grinders, vices, hand-shears, drill press. This way I can get to a tool when I need, but also have a big flat space to put bits together. My bench was made using modular storage racking stuff (not the EAA timber type), so if I wanted I could add length easily.
 
EAA benches with modifications

I have several EAA type benches with the following modifications;

Replace the top plywood with 2 X 6 slats spaced like deck boards for weight and stability. Overhang for clamping ease.
Add a sheet (cut to size) of 1/2 inch ply, MDF or OSB as a sacrificial layer.
Cheep outdoor carpet for scratch suppression.

Cut legs to an overall height that is comfortable (36 inches typical)

The 2 X 6s add weight and strength, the 1/2 inch stock add a throw away surface for the thousands of dings, drill holes etc., and the carpet … well.


For dimpling I have two 'mini tables' I set on the bench to either side of the dimple frame and move around depending on the size and shape of the piece I am working on to hold the piece level. I just lay my back riveting plate on the bench to use. I also have a dedicated 'dirty' bench for all grinding and cutting machines, but that is another discussion.
 
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