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Gap -- VS-412PP to VS-803PP

Golf Echo

Golf Echo

Active Member
Another quick question...

In clecoing together VS-412PP and VS-803PP, there is a small gap on each side as the upper VS-412PP hinge bracket contacts the radius of the VS-803PP spar flange bend. I assume this should be made to lay flat before match-drilling and riveting?

IMG_0160.JPG


Thanks again.
 
I don't recall having to do anything special here. Just riveted them on. I can't really see a gap in the photo.
 
Yeah, it was hard to get a decent photo.

In that picture, you can sort of see that the very right side of the powder-coated steel hinge bracket touches the web-flange bend radius so it doesn't sit flat on the spar web.

It's the exact same problem as with the horizontal stabilizer rear spar and the 2 aluminum reinforcement bars, where the manual had you round one edge more so the HS-609PPs would sit perfectly flat in HS-603PP.

It's powder-coated steel this time, though. And there is a rivet hole on the corner of the hinge bracket that looks like it might have the potential to become and edge distance problem if too much steel is removed.
 
I imagine most of us just rivet it on & go... unless yours is unusual for some reason. You could just sand off the edge of the hinge where it hits the spar curve enough to fit flush (and re-prime). But a quick call/email to Vans is always a good bet.
 
The answer from Van's...

I just had a quick call with Van's. They want to see the hinge bracket sit flat in the spar channel. I'll have to grind some steel off the hinge bracket to get a nice fit, then cover the bare steel with some touch-up paint.
 
Did you find that there was excesive powder coat on the hinge? I did inside the belcrank weldments.
 
bret said:
Did you find that there was excesive powder coat on the hinge? I did inside the belcrank weldments.
Click to expand...

No, not really any excessive powder coat at this spot. Some of the holes are pretty tough to get a 1/8" cleco into, but that's easy to fix with the drill bit. I think that's just the thickness of the powder coat though. I wouldn't really call it excessive.
 
Golf Echo said:
That's what I had heard/read. But, when I used my #30 reamer last time, I wound up with this disaster. I still don't really know what I did wrong...
Click to expand...

You told us exactly what you did wrong:
Golf Echo said:
Good thought!

I had rounded the HS-609PPs thoroughly before match-drilling, but when I clecoed them on to match-drill, I accidentally swapped the top and bottom HS-609PP. So, the rounded edges weren't where they were supposed to be. That definitely couldn't have helped.

I'd need to replace both HS-609PPs and both HS-603PPs, so the part bill would be closer to $200. I might just get them to throw the parts in with my wing kit...
Click to expand...

If the radius on the spar bar isn't properly formed, it is going to end up slightly toward the centerline of the spar. Match reaming through the misplaced bars elongated the holes in the spar web. The same thing would have happened whether using a drill bit or reamer.
 
longranger said:
You told us exactly what you did wrong:

If the radius on the spar bar isn't properly formed, it is going to end up slightly toward the centerline of the spar. Match reaming through the misplaced bars elongated the holes in the spar web. The same thing would have happened whether using a drill bit or reamer.
Click to expand...

It was my thought at the time, but I'm not convinced that was the only factor. If it was, I would expect to see all of the hole elongations in the same direction (directly perpendicular to, and toward the center-line of the spar). While they all seem to be elongated more or less toward the center-line of the spar, there is a variance of about ?45?. Perhaps the extra gap between the parts served to exaggerate any drill "wobble", and this was the result.

Perhaps I'm over-thinking this and I should just move on with a fix. ;)
 
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