Delrin Aileron Stop

[N130WN]

Originally Posted by az_gila

Clamp them in a bolt, and chuck it in your drill press. You should able to cut it down to any size easily with a file....

gil A

Worked for me too.

http://bowenaero.com/mt/2007/12/aileron-stops.html

[N941WR]

OK, I might be slow so I need to ask.

What is wrong with the stop Van's calls for in the plans?

It is very easy to install and simply works. Heck, I installed mine while the wings were on the cradle in my basement and they worked out fine.

[RatMan]

Originally Posted by N941WR

What is wrong with the stop Van's calls for in the plans?

Nothing is wrong with the way the Vans says to do it. The -9 may be different but on the -8, the nylon/delrin stop is much easier to install and get the angles just right.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by RatMan

Nothing is wrong with the way the Vans says to do it. The -9 may be different but on the -8, the nylon/delrin stop is much easier to install and get the angles just right.

...and can be adjusted without drilling out rivets....

gil A

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by RatMan

Nothing is wrong with the way the Vans says to do it. The -9 may be different but on the -8, the nylon/delrin stop is much easier to install and get the angles just right.

I think they are the same. To install my stock stops, I drilled one hole, clecoed it in place, moved the aileron until it contacted the stop, adjusted the stop until it was flush with the aileron, drilled the second hole, and then riveted it in place. That was about as easy as it gets, IMHO.

[RVG8tor]

Originally Posted by N941WR

I think they are the same. To install my stock stops, I drilled one hole, clecoed it in place, moved the aileron until it contacted the stop, adjusted the stop until it was flush with the aileron, drilled the second hole, and then riveted it in place. That was about as easy as it gets, IMHO.

Bill,

Since I started this thread I thought I would respond. I respect that you think the plan aileron stop was easy. However for someone who is just looking at this the DWG for the first time it is not very clear, just where do you decide to drill that first hole? I do understand that you can then pivot the stop around the first hole then mark and drill the second. But what if you get the first hole wrong, now you have a hole to repair. With the derlin method if you get it wrong you mill it to the proper size or start a new one, no major reworks. When I read about the derlin stop I thought that it was very simple, no guess work, and there was no metal angle to get hung up on something if god forbid it came loose. I have not done it yet but since there is a full size DWG of this area I can make a template that will show me what deflection there would be in the aileron hinge before it hits the Van's stop in the DWG, from there I can determine a size for the derlin stop I will need.

So from my perspective the milling and cutting of the Van's stop, then the TLAR method for the initial set is not as simple as milling the derlin stop. Just my take, it will be even easier if someone who is flying an -8 with this type of stop can tell me what size derlin stop they ended up with. I like the part where new ideas are attempted and passed on via this forum. To whoever thought of the derlin stop first thank you.

Cheers

[rv8ch]

Hi,

I'm not yet flying, but I just went down and mic'ed my delrin stops, and they came out at a hair over 1/2 inch (0.505").

Regards,
Mickey

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by RVG8tor

... However for someone who is just looking at this the DWG for the first time it is not very clear, just where do you decide to drill that first hole?

Mike,

I think this is the difference in the kits. On the -9 there are two pre-punched holes on the inboard aileron bracket. (Unfortunately I didn't take a good picture of this during construction.) If you expand the following picture, you can just make out two rivet holes 1/2 down aileron bracket. The aileron bracket is just above the ear muffs, which are hanging on the outboard flap bracket. Those holes are there for aileron stop.

Then it was just a matter of making the stop per the plans.

My ignorance is showing as I assumed those holes were pre-punched in all the wing kits, thanks for the education. Man, Van's really spoiled me!

[Mack 8]

I used 0.5" delrin rod and it came out ok. In the past it has been said that this method although easier may place to much stress on the AN3 bolt so later I may use the delrin as a guide to where to place the plans version of the stop.

Greg
RV8 Renesis Rotary

[RVG8tor]

Mind you I have not made the Derlin stops yet but this is what I did to get the first hack on the size. The DWG in the plans for this area is full size, so I traced the bracket that is on the Aileron, the top of which will get the Derlin stop. I then cut this out, and with a push pin at the pivot point, rotated the template until it hit the Van's stop (yellow highlight in photo). I taped the template in place then traced the line of the aileron hinge (one that attaches to the rear spar) through the template. The made a perpendicular line though the upper aileron hinge point (this gets the push rod and bushing the Derlin stop will go around. Took a compass and made the circle tangent to the aileron hinge (green highlight). As you can see from the photo it looks like a Derlin stop that is .660 inches will be the ideal size. Of course this assumes the Van's stop is in the correct location and there is not much variation based on how the ailerons are built. I think this measurement will be a starting point for the prototype then I can refine from there. Time will tell how this idea works out, this was just my technique. It does look like a standard 1/2 inch Derlin rod might be close enough but since I already have the 7/8 rod I think I will just try to mill it down to .660. Sorry the pictures turned out fuzzy!

Cheers