DHeal
Well Known Member
FYI -- A new video from Van's regarding the setting of Cherry Max rivets at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb9miRllZDo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb9miRllZDo
I lubricated them like the video. Did the same with the original Van?s rivets, but they would still not set properly.
I had the same experience AaronG had. I'm a first time builder, so I thought it was me, but I have a friend who has built a 12 before, has 30+ years of experience in the industry and has access to an official CherryMax pneumatic puller Even with all of that, we had a high failure rate pulling these rivets (with the lubrication trick).
I think for whatever reason batches of these rivets simply fail to pull correctly. With a new batch they pulled fine.
The Cherry rivets are used because they are stronger than AN470 rivets.
I don?t have time to go into a long description of how they are designed but if oh do a bit of research today will find that what you did to improve their installation likely did nothing and might hav even reduced their strength.
Main point, don?t assume that just because they are both called rivets, that what is relevant to one is relevant to the other.
Well, ok then. You had already done it and then asked.I didn't assume, that's why I asked the question. They were already not set properly, so what I did either finished setting them or it left them still in need of removal, so no harm no foul. I'm looking for advice and useful information, not scolding. Thanks.
Well, I just got to this part of the 12iS fuse build, and just let me say, #&@$! Cherry Max rivets.
Like others, this is what I got in return for my lubrication efforts:
Switching from the pneumatic to a slow manual pull helped a little, but still not perfect.
Is there any reason we can't finish setting the ^%$! things with a squeezer? For that matter, can't we just use squeezed rivets in the first place?
Here's what they look like after a good post-pop squeeze, back and front. Are they good, or do they need replaced?
The good news is that the ones that aren't fully set are trivially easy to remove - you can easily drive out the mandrel and then drill the center of the rivet to remove the manufactured head/punch out shaft. Trying to get a fully set one out teaches you very quickly WHY they are stronger than regular rivets.
Well the ones in the bottom row weren't supposed to be there, which I realized after running short of rivets lol, so I will learn right now just how much pain I'm in store for.
I'm just about to install the doubler on the wing and it has one Cherrymax rivet which is a type I have never installed. After researching through the forum, I see that some are having better luck pulling slow with a manual puller (after lubing). Does anyone have any experience on CherryMax rivets with the Milwaukee M12 puller? It works well for the LP3-4.
I've used the Milwaukee rivet gun, and it set all the Cherrymax rivets I had to install perfectly.
I'm just about to install the doubler on the wing and it has one Cherrymax rivet which is a type I have never installed. After researching through the forum, I see that some are having better luck pulling slow with a manual puller (after lubing). Does anyone have any experience on CherryMax rivets with the Milwaukee M12 puller? It works well for the LP3-4.
Inconclusive because there was also a lube change, but we had poor results with M12 puller on the Cherrymax rivets that go in the fuselage bulkhead. Better results were had with the manual puller. Like I said, a lube change and bit of process adjustment was also involved so it may not be the puller so much as the lube. Once I was getting decent results I didn't want to go back and experiment much.
There were so many bad rivets that we had to order a box of replacements so I'll tinker more once those are here. My suspicion, like others you can find with some searching, is that the batch of rivets can make a big difference.