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  #91  
Old 01-12-2020, 04:49 PM
DeeCee 57's Avatar
DeeCee 57 DeeCee 57 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Zürich W, Switzerland, Europe, Earth, Milky Way, known Universe...
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hi Paul

the legibility of the G5 is very good, albeit the display and the digits are small. It is a perfect replica of the PFD I had in the A320 series and presents all the data in a clear, uncluttered and logical way. The resolution is very good.

VS is shown right of the altitude scale and is small in display. This is partly offset by the ability of choosing the limits of the range displayed during set-up, I think I settled for 1000 fpm for the moment. Of course, like all glass displays, you have to get used to look at the right spot for the data needed.

Originally there was no G5, then one, and now 2, they seem to multiply! On a serious note the idea for the panel was to have emergency IFR capability. Having a Davtron OAT in the right wing and the Garmin magnetometer in the rear fuse gives me winds aloft and TAS amongst other things. A benefit of the GNX375 is the GPS course deviation bar also displayed on the HSI.
The main use of the HSI is of course SA (situation awareness) whilst taxiing, line-up, or any phase of flight whilst using the heading bug.
Redundancy is also improved, each G5 being fitted with its own backup battery and being capable of displaying as either PFD or HSI.

The main problem with the panel being yellow were canopy reflections. I usually have a camera at hand whilst flying, but wasn't too fond of the yellow reflections on all bar a few pictures.
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RV-6 #25685, slider, O-360-A3A (carb/dual Lightspeed II), MTV-12-B, HB-YLL owner & lover
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  #92  
Old 01-13-2020, 12:36 AM
PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 86
Default Garmin multiplies

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeCee 57 View Post

Originally there was no G5, then one, and now 2, they seem to multiply!
Hi DC
This seems to be the way things can go! Originally I wanted to install only old school steam airspeed, altitude, VSI, skid ball and compass for local VFR flying. Plus a non-vacuum artificial horizon for added safety, in case of unexpected reduced visibility, hence the G5.
But the G5 seems to provide all of the required functions, and would be even *more* useful with a compatible GPS e.g. Aera 660. And then, one need only add GMC 305 and a couple of servos to also use the G5 as an autopilot. Even if that was not the original intention...
I currently fly another plane with steam gauges and a Dynon D-10 but tend to refer only to the steam gauges, so it will probably take an effort to adjust to using the digital airspeed, altimeter and vertical speed.
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  #93  
Old 01-13-2020, 04:36 AM
leok leok is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 286
Default Instrument Panel

Here is the best photo of my panel that I have. The PFD and G5 are a little washed out. The panel is all Garmin G3X touch.
Not a 6, but I guess it's ok to show a 10 panel?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by leok : 01-13-2020 at 11:56 AM.
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  #94  
Old 01-13-2020, 08:53 PM
gfb gfb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 611
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Any chance you can post a write-up of how to make the backlit engravings?
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  #95  
Old 01-14-2020, 07:19 AM
Kevin R Kevin R is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 22
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Number two on the backlit situation... lol

Kevin R
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  #96  
Old 01-14-2020, 12:03 PM
leok leok is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 286
Default Backlight switch plates

For backlighting of my switch plates, I used 12V led strip lights available on Ebay for very little money. I went a little overboard and used RGBW light strips and wired all of the colors independently allowing me to change to any color I want by adjusting the intensity of each color.

1. I grouped sets of switches, organized and prewired each group to fit into a switch plate. The wires were routed to a single small bundle and connector at one end to be plugged into the main harness. This simplifies the backlighting as well as allows me to remove each switch group from the aircraft if needed.

2. The switch plates are made of the same plastic used for nameplates in the office, etc.. The plastic has a thin layer of one color over a second color base. In my case I used black over clear base. This way when the black color (about 0.015” thick) is removed, clear plastic remains (about 0.125 thick). By reversing the text and placing the black side down, a light shining through lights up the text. This is known as ‘second surface engraving’ and is basically how all lighted switches in automobiles are done (only with paint on plastic rather than engraving stock). If you don’t want to light them, painting the back shows through nicely. I have a small 3”x36” XCarve CNC that I do the engraving on. Details are in my build thread in my signature line.

3. With the switch plates engraved, I then make a small ‘light box’ to cover the back side. Generally, these were made from thin aluminum, but odd shapes were made from fiberglass laid over an appropriately shaped foam plug and painted black to make them opaque. This is where routing of the wires into a small bundle is important. Holes in the light box for exiting wires need to be sealed for light leakage. One hole is easier to seal with a piece of black insulation foam than many holes. The holes are ‘U’ shaped to allow the assembly/disassembly without removing the connector. In most cases I attached the light box to the back of the instrument panel with 4-40 flush screws, and the switch plate to the front with black 4-40 button head screws.

4. The light box is lit with one or two small strips of LEDs wired back to a central control/dimmer. Two small strips of LEDs were often required to light around the switch bodies and avoid shadowing. In my case with RGBW lights there are 4 ground wires and one power since the LED strips have a common power for all colors and separate grounds for each color. For each switch plate grouping, I connect the ground for each color to a separate common ground. Then each common ground goes through a 1000-ohm pot to the aircraft ground. I have 4 pots to control the intensity of each color independently. Power just ties back to a common fused power wire for all of the backlight LEDs.

Most of the details are posted in my KitLog build thread. There is a link in my signature line. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask. If I can make some time in the next few weeks I will post a detailed thread in the electrical section.
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  #97  
Old 01-14-2020, 01:33 PM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,858
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Very impressive! Sounds like a 3D printer would be a good solution for the light boxes for anyone doing it now.
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