vernon smith
Well Known Member
The picture below is the baffle at the rear of the engine with the top motor mount protruding through it. I'm looking for an easy effective way to plug up/cover this huge pressure leak.
Aerosport has them ready made if you don't want to DIY fiberglas...
http://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-engine-baffle-motor-mount-covers/
ok, now if you go to the left of that mount, see that big opening with the screen over it, that is your heat for the floor. I have one also, I always have high cyl3 heat in the summer. guess what happens when you close off the heat in cabin, it gets dumped into the wind so to speak. so in the summer you have a total leak of cooling air off that no3 cylinder. I would be more concerned with blocking off that in the summer.
ok, now if you go to the left of that mount, see that big opening with the screen over it, that is your heat for the floor. I have one also, I always have high cyl3 heat in the summer. guess what happens when you close off the heat in cabin, it gets dumped into the wind so to speak. so in the summer you have a total leak of cooling air off that no3 cylinder. I would be more concerned with blocking off that in the summer.
I've done that. you are not getting my point. I will do this when summer comes. I'm going to block off this hole, it robs cooling air from no. 3, my problem cylinder. it makes perfect sense. sure I have put the washer in that spot, sure I opened up the area for the fins, still gets hotter on no.3 than any other cylinder. so why not cut off the air leaving right there to the heater valve, which in the summer when closed goes out no nowhere, not cooling the jug on no.3, it's a no brainer to stop the exit air. so that's my goal this summer.Yes, that goes to one of the heat muffs.
Something that has help many. Throw a couple washers on the bolt holding that rear baffle between the baffle and engine. That should help those last two cylinders a bit.
If the middle cylinder is significantly higher than the rear, that won't help.
You can also look at the castings between the fins on that cylinder. Sometimes there is quite a bit of waste material blocking airflow. Get a small file and remove anything that doesn't look like a fin. It will be obvious.
You don't want to completely block the flow of air to the heat muff, just reduce the flow. The heat exchanger needs some air flow. No flow will seriously shorten the life of the muffler and heat exchanger.
I've done that. you are not getting my point. I will do this when summer comes. I'm going to block off this hole, it robs cooling air from no. 3, my problem cylinder. it makes perfect sense. sure I have put the washer in that spot, sure I opened up the area for the fins, still gets hotter on no.3 than any other cylinder. so why not cut off the air leaving right there to the heater valve, which in the summer when closed goes out no nowhere, not cooling the jug on no.3, it's a no brainer to stop the exit air. so that's my goal this summer.
If you are careful, you can seal it with RTV on the backside.