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  #391  
Old 07-10-2019, 10:17 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Fiberglass work continues on the rear skirt. First I popped it off and trimmed the edges. Don't do anything with that tape just yet though, more to do.

Tip: I'm not sure how you guys and gals are doing it but I have found that skipping any wax and PVA and laying up right on top of clear packing tape has always resulted in the EASIEST way to pop the fiberglass off (easier than when I used to use wax). Seriously the part releases so well it's satisfying to watch. However, disregard that comment if you are doing fiberglass in molds, different ballgame as I understand.

20190710_111626 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After sanding the inside a bit and exposing any trapped air bubbles it was time to start doing a bit of filling. I had one section on the right side that got a little saggy. I filled this region with a flox mixture. You can see all the area I had to fill on the whole fairing, not too bad, just make sure to get that tape nice and tight! The valley was not very deep at all, I probably could of just used micro but why not go with flox.

20190710_111632 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After doing some work around the doghouse area I put on a nice thick coat of micro on the whole fairing. Time for some sanding tomorrow.

20190710_180039 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

While I wait for epoxy to cure I figured I could work on the main gear. Glad I did as this does take a few hours to do. First bolt the brake flange on. I ordered shorter bolts and AN363 nuts as recommended by some on these forums to hold the brake bracket on. I figured I mind as well do this since first flight will probably be without wheel pants but who knows, I will cross that bridge when I get there.

20190710_181928 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next, mount the tires. Slap some tire talc in there and put things together. I can already tell that this is the part of the build that is going to get fun!

20190710_181922 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After packing and seating the bearings I got the axle nut set right per the Matco instructions and drilled the gear leg for the cotter pin. Drilling through that hard steel is a bear! Put the brakes back on and on to the next side.

20190710_201551 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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RV-7A Emp. done
Wings mostly done
Fuselage almost done
Finish kit arrived
Exempt but gladly paying!
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  #392  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:14 AM
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kentlik kentlik is offline
 
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What type if resin and such are you using? I am interested in getting it in the shop for later.
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  #393  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:38 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentlik View Post
What type if resin and such are you using? I am interested in getting it in the shop for later.
I use West System epoxy. Get it from here. Looks like there is a couple of stores in the Portland area too. I got mine from Merrit supply when I ordered Sika only to find out the next day that West Marine has free shipping.

You want the 105 resin and the 206 hardner (I bought the gal. size for 105 and 27 oz. for 206) The 206 resin has to be used in temps above 60. I also have the pumps that you can get but I don't really use them other than to dispense as they are not accurate. I weigh everything in a 5 to 1 ratio.
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  #394  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:53 AM
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kentlik kentlik is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
I use West System epoxy. Get it from here. Looks like there is a couple of stores in the Portland area too. I got mine from Merrit supply when I ordered Sika only to find out the next day that West Marine has free shipping.

You want the 105 resin and the 206 hardner (I bought the gal. size for 105 and 27 oz. for 206) The 206 resin has to be used in temps above 60. I also have the pumps that you can get but I don't really use them other than to dispense as they are not accurate. I weigh everything in a 5 to 1 ratio.
Copy that. Thanks for the info! I need to get some flox I guess which is from Spruce I would imagine...
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RV-7A in progress
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"The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena..." Teddy Roosevelt
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  #395  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:58 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentlik View Post
Copy that. Thanks for the info! I need to get some flox I guess which is from Spruce I would imagine...
Ya you probably want to lock down some flox, micro, and cab-o-sil from spruce. Probably get some peel ply too. Flox is strustural to some degree, micro is mainly used on cosmetic things and is easy to sand. Cab-o-sil basically makes it so it doesn't flow/fall when on vertical surfaces.
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RV-7A Emp. done
Wings mostly done
Fuselage almost done
Finish kit arrived
Exempt but gladly paying!
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  #396  
Old 07-11-2019, 02:44 PM
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So I got all that ordered and on its way. Started back with the fuel lines and bulkhead fittings and going along again but still ready to be done with this part...Return lines are a bit of challenge.
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RV-7A in progress
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  #397  
Old 07-11-2019, 04:06 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
You want the 105 resin and the 206 hardner (I bought the gal. size for 105 and 27 oz. for 206) The 206 resin has to be used in temps above 60. I also have the pumps that you can get but I don't really use them other than to dispense as they are not accurate. I weigh everything in a 5 to 1 ratio.
The 5:1 ratio is by volume; by weight it's 5.36:1 for the 206 slow hardener and 5:19:1 for the 205 Fast hardener ... though the data sheet calls out a large range around these for an acceptable mix (5:1 is in the middle of the range). I use a 0.1g scale to measure mine as well; the pumps are not particularly accurate. I never had a batch not cure rock hard doing it this way.
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  #398  
Old 07-11-2019, 04:30 PM
bobnoffs bobnoffs is offline
 
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7 ounces of hardener is $22 shipped on ebay.
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  #399  
Old 07-11-2019, 06:20 PM
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kentlik kentlik is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoffs View Post
7 ounces of hardener is $22 shipped on eBay.
Back many years ago I was a model maker for industrial design and I still have my vacuum pump and scales...glad I kept them.
Not much experience with glass I will admit. Do I need to roll out the extra resin between a plastic sheet before applying the glass? I saw someone on here doing that. I will have to brush up on this stuff before I get in to it...
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RV-7A in progress
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0527486/?
Private pilot, ASEL!
EAA 105 Chapter 7S3
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"The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena..." Teddy Roosevelt
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  #400  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:30 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentlik View Post
Back many years ago I was a model maker for industrial design and I still have my vacuum pump and scales...glad I kept them.
Not much experience with glass I will admit. Do I need to roll out the extra resin between a plastic sheet before applying the glass? I saw someone on here doing that. I will have to brush up on this stuff before I get in to it...
If you were building a Lancair or VariEze -- an all-glass plane -- yes, you should be concerned with the proper ratio of glass to resin. However, there are not very many glass components on an RV, and none are structural (maybe the cowl, but that comes from Vans pre-molded from a pro shop), so a little extra resin won't hurt much in weight or strength. It is good practice to wet out the glass and squeeze off any grossly extra resin; that's just wasted weight. You can pre-wet the glass on plastic before applying, or paint the resin on and stipple it into the weave, depending on the application.

Best tip: read every post by DanH on this forum; you'll learn a ton! (and might get a free plenum out of the deal ;-)

And, experiment! It's easy to do, relatively cheap and fast. After reading and experimenting, I was able to totally crush the mis-fit of my IO-360 snorkel. See http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...4&postcount=54. It was very educational and recreational (and fun!)
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N430WB RV-7 #74152, tip-up. Working the baffles
Log at: http://rv7.wbencze.com
Defeating gravity one rivet at a time
VAF 2019 donation happily made

Last edited by wjb : 07-11-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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