RudiGreyling
Well Known Member
Ok so I am 90% complete with the baffles and ready to post pictures of the long process. Here is the plenum as received.
A person just trim your baffles as per the plans as if you were going to fit rubber seals. This plenum just goes in place of the rubber seals. This also means existing airplanes with rubber seals can retro fit, or vica versa, if it does not work properly to your liking then you can remove plenum and put your rubber seals back. So I was willing to take the risk...The plenum is actually a perfect match to the countour of your top cowl. Jan used a top cowl as a plug for it. So if you trim for rubbers every where the same clearance, and the plenum follows the contours of the top cowl, you have perfect clearance inside the top cowl. Simple and very clever!
I masking tapped the sides so that the plenum dont scratch since the baffles are still rough cut at this stage. Then marked and made small adjustments so the baffles follow the plenum pofile perfectly and then decided where my nutplate screw holes will go and drilled and clecko'ed the plenum in place. I added 2 screws per loose baffle plate over each cylinder along the sides, and evenly spaced them the same on the front and rear.
A tip for installing the LH rear screw, drill a access hole in the rear cover so you can get your screw driver in.
The Front
Install the nutplates.
more nutplates
I put some friction free tape on the sides of the plenum and trim to fit to contour.
Mark and trim the front overhangs and oil door position.
After Trimming,.
.....
A person just trim your baffles as per the plans as if you were going to fit rubber seals. This plenum just goes in place of the rubber seals. This also means existing airplanes with rubber seals can retro fit, or vica versa, if it does not work properly to your liking then you can remove plenum and put your rubber seals back. So I was willing to take the risk...The plenum is actually a perfect match to the countour of your top cowl. Jan used a top cowl as a plug for it. So if you trim for rubbers every where the same clearance, and the plenum follows the contours of the top cowl, you have perfect clearance inside the top cowl. Simple and very clever!
I masking tapped the sides so that the plenum dont scratch since the baffles are still rough cut at this stage. Then marked and made small adjustments so the baffles follow the plenum pofile perfectly and then decided where my nutplate screw holes will go and drilled and clecko'ed the plenum in place. I added 2 screws per loose baffle plate over each cylinder along the sides, and evenly spaced them the same on the front and rear.
A tip for installing the LH rear screw, drill a access hole in the rear cover so you can get your screw driver in.
The Front
Install the nutplates.
more nutplates
I put some friction free tape on the sides of the plenum and trim to fit to contour.
Mark and trim the front overhangs and oil door position.
After Trimming,.
.....
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