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  #101  
Old 07-07-2018, 12:42 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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I got the swirls removed from the fuselage using 2500 wet-or-dry, then 3000 Trizact. No harm done to the paint. Now I have to re-buff but I'm going to wait until the hook-and-loop backer pad for my rotary Milwaukee arrives. I don't want to introduce any more of the dreaded swirls, so I'm going to try a test patch somewhere inconspicuous before pressing on.

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  #102  
Old 07-07-2018, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Stick to the tools and techniques detailed in the initial thread posts.
That was all useful information and I appreciate it. You left a couple things out, though. For example, what is this piece of equipment? Is it dual action, or rotary? I asked a few posts above if it was OK to use DA for compounding and nobody answered. So I went ahead and did it, with disastrous results.



I also asked about using flat buffing pads vs. the egg-carton version and, again, no answer. So I used what was available locally - the flat foam pads. This is the one that damaged my paint:



I don't do this for a living (obviously), so I really couldn't afford to go out and purchase hundreds of dollars of equipment that I would only use once. Maybe I should have... I did buy the three 3M compounds (over $60 per qt.) the 3M Trizact discs ($5 each), and the hookit soft interface pad ($30), but I'll be dipped if I spring for that quick-release backer pad system for a buffer. We're not all independently wealthy out here in Experimental land, you know.

This is probably what I should have used. Maybe I still will: Perfect-It 33662 Quick Connect Foam Pad Kit . At this point, what's another $109?
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Last edited by snopercod : 07-07-2018 at 01:56 PM.
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  #103  
Old 07-07-2018, 04:03 PM
Aluminum Aluminum is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
So I used what was available locally - the flat foam pads. This is the one that damaged my paint:

I used the same orange HF one many times with medium-coarse compound, right after 1500 grit random orbit sander. It takes some work on the tough siloxane topcoat but it leaves an almost-glossy, very even finish. Definitely no scratches like the ones in your photo. A quick pass with the blue pad and fine polishing compound after this produced the shine in my photo above.

If it's not contamination, I'm starting to wonder about the durability of your topcoat. If firm foam can damage it so, is it likely to stand up to the elements and regular bug washing? I doubt that "dual-action" versus simple rotary would make such a difference: if I understand the DA correctly it would just work slower than a regular polisher.
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  #104  
Old 07-07-2018, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aluminum View Post
I'm starting to wonder about the durability of your topcoat.
It's PPG Durethane which has been very tough so far. It will remain a great mystery why that orange foam pad worked for you and not me. I have noticed that the foam pads come in three (or more) densities. The more dense ones (like the orange one in the photo) are supposedly for "compounding" and the softer pads are for finishing or polishing. Since I sanded to 3000 grit, I probably didn't even need to "compound" the finish.
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  #105  
Old 07-10-2018, 02:05 PM
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Making progress. After sanding out the swirls from the DA and using the Trizact 3000 with a hand pad. I started re-buffing today. I skipped the 3M #1 and went straight to the #2. I think the #1 was just too aggressive - more suitable for removing oxide from a car hood. I think the #2 going to work and I may follow up with the #3 if I don't give out.

I masked off all the control surface gaps and static ports so as not to clog them with compound:


This is the "medium" yellow foam pad I used (Harbor Freight)


I bought a hook-and-loop backer plate on Amazon for my Milwaukee. For some reason, Harbor Freight didn't stock them:


Working my way forward, you can see where I stopped buffing adjacent to the aft end of the side windows. The #2 compound took out the haze you can see forward of that from the 3000 grit. I could see a couple places that needed more buffing. Tomorrow is another day...
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  #106  
Old 07-12-2018, 04:23 AM
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The saga continues. In our last episode, I had re-sanded the top of the fuselage with 2500 and 3000 to remove the heavy swirls from the 3M Perfect-It #1 compound and the DA. I had started buffing with the rotary buffer and the #2 compound, and it was looking OK...at first. Yesterday I finished buffing with the #2 and went to the #3 Ultra-Fine, which is supposed to remove swirls. It didn't. All it did was make the fuselage top real shiny but, sadly, it disclosed several areas with scratches from previous hand sanding and other areas that were scuffed looking. Undaunted, I dropped back and re-sanded those areas with 2500 and 3000 grit, and re-buffed with #2 then #3. There were still some scratches and scuff marks showing so I did it all again. After the third time I just threw up my tired hands and said, "That's good enough!".

While stuck in Groudhog Day, I started re-thinking my decision to bypass the #1 compound. Maybe that would have taken out those defects before going to the #2. Maybe the DA was the problem, not the #1 compound. I guess I could run a test using the #1 compound with my rotary buffer. Someday I may do that. That's the great thing about cutting and buffing: You can always come back years later and work on it some more...at least until you run out of paint

Here's the back side of the buffing pad I was using on the #3 compound. I thought it worked well - the beveled front face made it easy to hold the buffer at a slight angle like DanH recommended. I used a yellow pad for the #2 and a black (softer) pad for the #3 - both from Harbor Freight. After use, I am storing them in gallon baggies so as not to become contaminated.

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Last edited by snopercod : 07-12-2018 at 04:26 AM.
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  #107  
Old 07-12-2018, 01:04 PM
Canadian_JOY Canadian_JOY is offline
 
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Thanks for continuing to share your saga. Much good knowledge being gained here, without the investment in sweat!
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  #108  
Old 07-12-2018, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Canadian_JOY View Post
Thanks for continuing to share your saga.
I just wanted to keep DanH's thread going, because he provided a professional view of how it should be done. I'm just providing an amateur's experience, and it ain't pretty. I'm getting there eventually, though (hopefully). When I got home from the hangar today, I did a load of microfiber cloths in the laundry. Anyone attempting cutting and buffing should buy at least 25 'cause they're gonna' use 15 per day or more.
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  #109  
Old 07-12-2018, 05:43 PM
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This was done with 1500 Trizact, then #1 and #2 compound, nothing else.





Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
When I got home from the hangar today, I did a load of microfiber cloths in the laundry. Anyone attempting cutting and buffing should buy at least 25 'cause they're gonna' use 15 per day or more.
We use retired hotel towels from the local rag man.
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Last edited by DanH : 07-12-2018 at 05:52 PM.
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  #110  
Old 07-13-2018, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
This was done with 1500 Trizact, then #1 and #2 compound, nothing else.
It looks great in the hangar, but what about in the sun? That's where my swirl marks really show up. Maybe I should just fly in the dark? So did you use a DA with the #1 compound, or a rotary buffer? I found a small patch on my fuselage where I can still see scratches and am thinking about trying to remove them with the #1 and a foam pad in my rotary buffer. Yes, I'm a glutton for punishment...
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