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  #61  
Old 03-06-2018, 05:08 PM
Neal Trombley Neal Trombley is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: North Fort Myers
Posts: 241
Default

Great Job!!
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SW Florida
EAA 66
N517NC ( reserved)
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July 2017
Dec 2017
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  #62  
Old 03-06-2018, 05:57 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 693
Default RV-9A wings

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
I found it easy to do all the work with the wing on the stand. I cant imagine how much harder it would have been if the bottom skins were riveted on while the wing was flopping on a table.
I agree. I did all my skin riveting on the vertical build stand. I helped a friend rivet the bottom skins with the wings flat on the table and found it much more difficult.
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RV-9A (Fuselage)
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  #63  
Old 04-10-2018, 10:01 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 526
Default Wing Storage

So the wings are done, but how to store them? So I decided to use the pieces of excellent wood from the shipping crates to modify the gifted wing stand and build a roadie box. This will store the wings and prevent any hangar rash. Here is a picture before the top and ends were attached. Like everything else I thought this would be a 1 day project, but alas, it took me a while longer.

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John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Extra dues paid 2018, worth every penny

RV9A- Status: tail feathers done less tips
Wings done less tips and avionics
Fuselage 30%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #64  
Old 06-03-2018, 07:42 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 526
Default Fuse Part 1

In looking at various build logs of others who have gone before, it seems the fuse takes just as long as the tail and wings combined. So I decided to use a gifted surplus Hobbs meter to keep track of my build time. Now I am depressed; my per week build time is no where near what I expected. So I have abandoned the Hobbs and am just trying to spend any free time on the plane. Anyone want to come by and paint a house while I build?

The big decision was whether to paint the interior pieces that show at this time. After much hemming and hawing, I have taken other's advice and decided to prime everything as I go and then re-prime and paint once the fuse is together. The crevices in seat back brackets will be hard to get to once assembled, so I will leave those cleco'd for now; those will end up having exposed rivets. This plan prevents me from having to worry about scuffing the paint during the build.

So the fuselage bulkheads are ready for assembly. The decision to prime did not add too much work, but it did add confusion. The various steps to prep the bulkheads had to be stopped while I built up a stack of parts to prime. This priming session was a long one, but went fairly quick.

Lawn Art:
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John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Extra dues paid 2018, worth every penny

RV9A- Status: tail feathers done less tips
Wings done less tips and avionics
Fuselage 30%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #65  
Old 06-29-2018, 11:42 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 526
Default Fuselage, part 2 of many

Bending longerons. Those words create fear, at least they did for me. I don't care to beat things with hammers, so I borrowed some longeron bending dies. I added scotch tape to the longerons and spread a thin coat of biolube from the aviation isle of REI. I didn't have a good vise, so I used c-clamps and the old wing crate as a table. I taped the plan's template to the side of the crate. This worked out well.

Using the c clamps, I did the first pass moving the dies about 1 1/2" at a time. The first longeron I had help and went well with very little out of plane bending, but I went thru 12 "el cheapo" c-clamps. For the second longeron, I bought three drop forged c clamps. These are still usable afterwards so worked out better. The rear bend is actually much tighter than the rest, so I had to use three pieces of 1/64" model airplane ply to increase the bend radius of the die.

The second longeron bent easier using the better c clamps, but I had much more out of plane bending. Using some scrap wood and a 2" piece of drain pipe, I was able to roll the bend back into plane. Both are well with the 1/16" tolerance.

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John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Extra dues paid 2018, worth every penny

RV9A- Status: tail feathers done less tips
Wings done less tips and avionics
Fuselage 30%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #66  
Old 07-01-2018, 09:31 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 573
Default

Cool trick using that piece of tube to straighten out the unwanted bend. Wish I had thought of that.
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RV-7A Emp. done
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  #67  
Old 07-02-2018, 01:50 PM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 45G, Brighton, MI
Posts: 1,796
Default

I still like the method of clamping the two pieces of longeron angle back to back with the common leg loosely placed in a vise (not clamped in the vise) and applying body weight fore and aft to effect the bend. No hammers, no dies, no out of plane bending.

http://mykitlog.com/users/display_lo...186428&row=204
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  #68  
Old 07-14-2018, 11:58 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 526
Default Fuse part 3

So I am working on the aft fuselage. Like many others, I had trouble with the F779 bottom fuse skin at the rear. This is really thick and pre bent. Well sort of. I had trouble getting the prepunched holes to lie up between the F779 and the bulkheads F710, F711, and F712. I was determined to have these pieces fit without inviting my neighbor, Mr Armstrong, to come over. Finally got it all lined up.

The trick was tweaking F779. First I made a jig to get the sides bent more by hitting it with a rubber mallet on the end; I tried using a piece of pipe on the bends, but this didn't do much. Then I used the rolling trick from the rudder build to finish bending the curve to 90 degrees. The metal has a lot of spring back, so I couldn't due this by hand. Everything fits well now.






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John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Extra dues paid 2018, worth every penny

RV9A- Status: tail feathers done less tips
Wings done less tips and avionics
Fuselage 30%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 07-15-2018 at 02:40 PM.
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  #69  
Old 09-02-2018, 10:30 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 526
Default Fuselage, part 4

Much progress has been made on the fuselage. I realize this is a long build; much like the wings, I look at the instructions and see what I have accomplished and what I have left to go, and just gain a little more respect for all those who have gone before. I keep telling myself there are over a thousand flying, and at least one that has flown around the world. Thanks to all those trailblazers.

The fuse continues with the center section assembly. Much of it to plans, but the crotch belt hold downs were an update that is not explicitly called out in the instructions. I decided to do this while installing the ribs. This allowed me to use solid rivets. I also had to use the 90 degree drill adapter and a 12" #30 bit. I was able to use solid rivets due to my doing this as the center section was assembled. (The separate instructions assume a retrofit and used pulled rivets.)





Riveting the center section had its difficult moments. It took some effort to get to the rivets for the center ribs and the center-rear bulkhead. If I was to do this again, I would start with the most central ribs and rivet from the center to the outside squeezing the rear and crotch belt supports, and using the rivet gun for the very front.

Once the ribs were in, I turned it up on the edge of the bench and most of the skin rivets were easy with my awesome helper holding the bar. I had to remove the control column brackets and 2 of the 4 seat belt anchors to get access.





To me it was not clear when to dress the R-915 side ribs. I did those after the structure and skin were riveted on and this worked out well. These must be fluted to match the curve of the side skins. I was able to use the prepunched holes and the seat floor edge to judge the fluting. They came out well.



After all this fun, here is the milestone shot. The one that shows real progress is being made. (At least until it comes time to take it apart to deburr and dimple.)



I realize I did not install the optional AHDRS mount in the aft fuselage. I am thinking I am going to put it up front to avoid more wires and tubing going thru the center section. That is my story and I am sticking to it. ;-)
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John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Extra dues paid 2018, worth every penny

RV9A- Status: tail feathers done less tips
Wings done less tips and avionics
Fuselage 30%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #70  
Old 09-02-2018, 11:47 AM
Flying Canuck Flying Canuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
I realize I did not install the optional AHDRS mount in the aft fuselage. I am thinking I am going to put it up front to avoid more wires and tubing going thru the center section. That is my story and I am sticking to it. ;-)
I believe the ADHRS needs to be a fair distance away from any magnetic interference (if there's a magnetometer in it). That may be trickier forward of the center section. Lots of room in the aft fuselage that's away from steel parts. Lines through the center section aren't too difficult, there's already numerous openings for them, or you can drill through the higher sides of the center section.
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