Dale D
Member
Hello. I have read as many ?cranky starter? and ?starter problem? threads as I can find, but I am running out of ideas to solve my starter problems on my Lycoming IO-320 standard compression engine. I have a Hartzell 2-blade C/S metal prop with 1 Slick Mag & 1 Lightspeed CDI ignition module. Total time on engine is 300 hrs, and I use Phillips 20w50 X/C oil.
My Symptoms:
My key ignition switch takes 3-4 attempts to get the prop to move past the compression stroke before it will swing the prop to start. (The engine starts up just fine, once the prop is swinging.)
My Actions & Results To-Date:
Replaced 7 yr-old 12V Odyssey PC680 battery with new Odyssey PC680 battery 4-mos. ago.
Result: Same start-up symptoms with my existing permanent magnet Sky-Tec 149-LS Lightweight starter.
Cleaned all cable and wire connections from battery to starter - positive and negative.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
Replaced starter with new series-wound Sky-Tec 149-NL starter 3 weeks ago.
Result: Same symptoms with new starter.
Replaced Starter Contactor with new Starter Contactor 2 weeks ago.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
Replaced Master Contactor with new Vans Master Contactor this past weekend.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
Note: Output lug of master contactor is joined to input lug of starter contactor with 3-1/4" length, double-thickness of copper bus bar.
Measured Voltage at various locations, per Sky-Tec?s trouble-shooting guide: 13.0 Volts (No-Load) at battery, 11.0 Volts (When Prop is Cranking) at battery, 10.6-10.7 Volts at starter (When Prop is Cranking), No measurable resistance on major power and ground cables. Above Voltage tests were with newest Odyssey battery, alone.
Hooked old & new Odyssey batteries in parallel and retested.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
(Once the prop did start swinging, it did swing with more authority.)
Talked to Alan at Sky-Tec support this morning. He is perplexed, too, as 10+ Volts at the starter should provide plenty of torque to start without stalling. However, he requested I make the following additional test:
?Disconnect the starter contactor?s positive cable from the new starter, and hook up a 12V starter caddy or known good 12V battery directly to the starter?s positive lug and good ground to eliminate potential upstream problems.?
The above test sounds simple enough. But frankly, the idea of making contact with a cable end that will have 100-200 Amps flowing through it scares me to death! I imagine some arcing sparks would occur, too.
Can someone suggest a safe way to complete this test?
Do you have any other suggestions that I may be missing?
I have nearly run out of parts to replace.
Thanks,
Dale
My Symptoms:
My key ignition switch takes 3-4 attempts to get the prop to move past the compression stroke before it will swing the prop to start. (The engine starts up just fine, once the prop is swinging.)
My Actions & Results To-Date:
Replaced 7 yr-old 12V Odyssey PC680 battery with new Odyssey PC680 battery 4-mos. ago.
Result: Same start-up symptoms with my existing permanent magnet Sky-Tec 149-LS Lightweight starter.
Cleaned all cable and wire connections from battery to starter - positive and negative.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
Replaced starter with new series-wound Sky-Tec 149-NL starter 3 weeks ago.
Result: Same symptoms with new starter.
Replaced Starter Contactor with new Starter Contactor 2 weeks ago.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
Replaced Master Contactor with new Vans Master Contactor this past weekend.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
Note: Output lug of master contactor is joined to input lug of starter contactor with 3-1/4" length, double-thickness of copper bus bar.
Measured Voltage at various locations, per Sky-Tec?s trouble-shooting guide: 13.0 Volts (No-Load) at battery, 11.0 Volts (When Prop is Cranking) at battery, 10.6-10.7 Volts at starter (When Prop is Cranking), No measurable resistance on major power and ground cables. Above Voltage tests were with newest Odyssey battery, alone.
Hooked old & new Odyssey batteries in parallel and retested.
Result: Same start-up symptoms.
(Once the prop did start swinging, it did swing with more authority.)
Talked to Alan at Sky-Tec support this morning. He is perplexed, too, as 10+ Volts at the starter should provide plenty of torque to start without stalling. However, he requested I make the following additional test:
?Disconnect the starter contactor?s positive cable from the new starter, and hook up a 12V starter caddy or known good 12V battery directly to the starter?s positive lug and good ground to eliminate potential upstream problems.?
The above test sounds simple enough. But frankly, the idea of making contact with a cable end that will have 100-200 Amps flowing through it scares me to death! I imagine some arcing sparks would occur, too.
Can someone suggest a safe way to complete this test?
Do you have any other suggestions that I may be missing?
I have nearly run out of parts to replace.
Thanks,
Dale