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  #101  
Old 03-05-2018, 04:17 PM
HDDAHL HDDAHL is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: hilton head sc
Posts: 89
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just finished today. Not mentioned in the instructions is the potential for interference between the top tailbone fairing and the gusset at full displacement of the stabilator. Mine did interfere and I had to file an eighth of an inch of the fairing above the gusset.
Hate putting those two bolts in.

No cracks, but only 150 hours.
N72DJ
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  #102  
Old 03-05-2018, 05:24 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDDAHL View Post
just finished today. Not mentioned in the instructions is the potential for interference between the top tailbone fairing and the gusset at full displacement of the stabilator. Mine did interfere and I had to file an eighth of an inch of the fairing above the gusset.
On the last page of the SB.... I guess you missed it.


Install the F-1294A and F-1294B Upper and Lower Tailcone Fairings and check for clearance at extremes of travel. See KAI Section 12


It is assumed that if you discover interference that you will correct it to gain the clearance described in Section 12
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Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #103  
Old 03-05-2018, 08:27 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,215
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I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.
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  #104  
Old 03-05-2018, 08:39 PM
Jim T Jim T is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFSchaller View Post
I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.
My neighbor has one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...f&q=lift+table

Makes is pretty easy to install. If he didn't have one, I buy one just for this operation!

Jim
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RV-12 kit no.: 120647
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http://www.mykitlog.com/JimT

2006 Rans S-6S Coyote (flying)
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  #105  
Old 03-06-2018, 06:05 AM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Gloversville, NY
Posts: 1,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFSchaller View Post
I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.
Ah yes, I remember those bolts from the build! As I recall, one technique I used was to clean the parts real good and then super glue the washers in place until I could slide the bolts in. Just donít get the glue on your fingers!

As to the table, I reckon one of the adjustable tables would be nice, but one can achieve almost the same result with a small table and various thicknesses of blankets, pads, etc.

Iím in no big hurry to start this project. Sure am looking forward to it though! 😫
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RV-12 N37JP 120176 Flying since 2012.
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  #106  
Old 03-06-2018, 10:21 AM
HDDAHL HDDAHL is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: hilton head sc
Posts: 89
Default Vans

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
On the last page of the SB.... I guess you missed it.


Install the F-1294A and F-1294B Upper and Lower Tailcone Fairings and check for clearance at extremes of travel. See KAI Section 12


It is assumed that if you discover interference that you will correct it to gain the clearance described in Section 12
As usual you guys at Vans are very thorough Scott. Thanks
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  #107  
Old 03-09-2018, 07:54 PM
alexe alexe is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 240
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Has anybody else had to replace the spacers (stabilator stops) between the bearing bracket halves with longer ones after installing the fix kit? My old spacers were approximately 1/16’’ short.
Alex
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Alex Erdelyi
RV-12 #120758, N912AE
Flying as of 4/28/15
Paid through December, 2018

Last edited by alexe : 03-09-2018 at 07:57 PM.
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  #108  
Old 03-09-2018, 09:27 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,215
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I got the stab back on today and the end of travel seemed ďsquishyĒ. Then I realized the issue brought up here about the fairing interference was the problem. The fairing was stopping the stab travel before it hit the hard stop. This blog is worth itís weight in gold!
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  #109  
Old 03-10-2018, 06:14 AM
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Phantom30 Phantom30 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID/Casa Grande, AZ
Posts: 638
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Just finished both SBís for my tail feathers yesterday....now for the fun of reinstalling everything. Will say, I appreciate Vanís for the continued support of our Aircraft.

Timing is everything...as this completes my annual for the tail section😜
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Ric Dickison
307 (CAB) Phantom
Search and Destroy (Can
Tho RVN)
Distinguished Flying Cross Society Member
CH-47 & UH-1H "Driver"
Rotax 9 Series Service IRMT

RV-12 Kit#729 "N312RD" is now a full functioning fun machine!! Thanks Van for fulfilling my dream😎
2018 Dues Paid
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  #110  
Old 03-12-2018, 04:04 PM
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scottmillhouse scottmillhouse is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 202
Default Installing stabilator cable solo

Just finished this up today and it probably took closer to 16 hours than 6. I prepped, primed and painted all parts before disassembly of the tail. No real pitfalls until reassembly.

Then spent hours getting the pivot bolts and spacing washers in. The newly boxed in structure makes access much more challenging and only from underneath. Connecting the stabilator cable tensioner solo is extremely challenging but I eventually worked out a way to do it solo. Connect the top, pull the lower cable as far forward as possible, wrap tape around the clevis body and clamp lightly with vice grips from the bottom. Insert a piece of cardboard at rear bulkhead to protect it from the vice grips. (the vice grips will push against the bulkhead and lock the lower cable position) With your right hand use the tail leverage to match holes by pulling down on the rear of the stabilator. When aligned insert a short #3 bolt in from the trim motor side. Then slowly from the right work in the correct bolt to the right clevis side to put in the spacer washer and then to the left to install washer followed by outside washer and castle nut/counter pin. Probably is impossible solo to pull the cable tension directly from the clevis and put in the bolt.

Also plan on a lot of trimming to the top rear fuselage cap faring if built per plans. The exposed plates are notched but the notch ends probably 3/8" farther to the front than the clearance previously required for the box spar. Bottom is easy, just the plate thickness.
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Got medical back, now building a 7A.
RV-12 #120515, 319RV over 235 hours.
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RV-9A, 536 hours, sold, RV-7 sold, Kitfox sold
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