Hello. I could use some feedback on what order to conduct the following tasks on my QB wings that were built in 2006. Any other advice would be very helpful. I have searched and read all the other posts. I am worried about not passing the leak test on 12 year old wings that were in storage for 10 years and proper travel of the fuel sender floats.
I am also having initial difficulties getting the fuel sender to get to full travel and getting a visual on why. I do have a small USB camera but getting the proper view is proving difficult.
I will continue to try to get a better view on the float travel and adjust as needed, but barring not getting a good travel (both via visual and Ohm readings) what should I do next?
I was thinking about following this order:
Temporarily install the fuel sender with the gasket, install the quick drain and using the VANs leak test kit, test the tank, knowing I may get some leakage around the fuel sender/screws/gasket. My hope is that this will get me some degree of confidence quickly that the tank does or does not need work to correct the leaks. If I do have leaks, cutting the access holes is probably the way to proceed, depending on where the leak(s) is/are.
If it is good from a leak perspective, continue to try to get the fuel senders adjusted before committing to cut an access hole in the baffle for easier adjustment. I already have the leak test kits and the Tank repair covers and closed-end rivets. Heck, while the tank is open, install capacitance plates and a return line.
My goal is to not cut it open if I don't have to.
I am also having initial difficulties getting the fuel sender to get to full travel and getting a visual on why. I do have a small USB camera but getting the proper view is proving difficult.
I will continue to try to get a better view on the float travel and adjust as needed, but barring not getting a good travel (both via visual and Ohm readings) what should I do next?
I was thinking about following this order:
Temporarily install the fuel sender with the gasket, install the quick drain and using the VANs leak test kit, test the tank, knowing I may get some leakage around the fuel sender/screws/gasket. My hope is that this will get me some degree of confidence quickly that the tank does or does not need work to correct the leaks. If I do have leaks, cutting the access holes is probably the way to proceed, depending on where the leak(s) is/are.
If it is good from a leak perspective, continue to try to get the fuel senders adjusted before committing to cut an access hole in the baffle for easier adjustment. I already have the leak test kits and the Tank repair covers and closed-end rivets. Heck, while the tank is open, install capacitance plates and a return line.
My goal is to not cut it open if I don't have to.