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  #1  
Old 12-14-2017, 02:29 PM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
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Default Cleveland brake rebuild...what & how????

Okay gang, I've searched for hours, and come up with nothing at all on the subject! (Parker Cleveland 30-59A unit)
my brake caliper bores are lightly ridged; can I clean these up with a hone? or is that pointless, will just clog up the stones with aluminum guck.
The pucks are a little discoloured, I think a polish will clean them up.
..and...
I see Viton O-rings on the ACS site, but they aren't showing which durometer hardness, and/or temp range is unclear....they show two!

Surely a dozen of you have done this job before, any pireps appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2017, 09:07 PM
WAM120RV WAM120RV is offline
 
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Location: Coventry. England
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Default Over complicate!

Hi,

With the greatest of respect I think you are asking a question that is not answerable without being able to see the depth of wear on your bores, and over complicating things.

I have rebuilt my brakes using the seals supplied by either Van's or ACS, can't remember which. I polished the Pistons and bores, reassembled and refitted....no problems since. The thing is, if they leak after refitting, you will come back one morning and either find fluid under the wheel or if you miss that, the brake pedal will be soft.

It is unlikely that it is something you will not spot preflight, provided you do proper checks.

All the best.
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2017, 07:28 AM
jim plaster jim plaster is offline
 
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Location: N.C.
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Default

If the bores are LIGHTLY pitted they can be cleared up with a small cylinder hone. If they're deeper you might end up replacing them. Only way to really check on the results after rework is to reseal them,bleed the system and do a good ops check. Might try clamps to hold the Pistons in for the leak check process before installing them....this will save you some time if they leak before you install them.if you have a parking brake....clamp the Pistons at the calipers...set the parking brake and leave it for 30 minutes or so. If you don't have leaks...reinstall and good to go.
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Last edited by jim plaster : 12-15-2017 at 07:31 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2017, 07:37 AM
jim plaster jim plaster is offline
 
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Default

If the bores are LIGHTLY pitted they can be cleared up with a small cylinder hone. If they're deeper you might end up replacing them. Only way to really check on the results after rework is to reseal them,bleed the system and do a good ops check. Might try clamps to hold the Pistons in for the leak check process before installing them....this will save you some time if they leak before you install them.
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  #5  
Old 12-19-2017, 09:30 PM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Default good advice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim plaster View Post
If the bores are LIGHTLY pitted they can be cleared up with a small cylinder hone. If they're deeper you might end up replacing them. Only way to really check on the results after rework is to reseal them,bleed the system and do a good ops check. Might try clamps to hold the Pistons in for the leak check process before installing them....this will save you some time if they leak before you install them.
thanks Jim, mine have just a few ridges it seems. So far my research points towards light very wet honing to attempt to smooth them out a bit. With new pads, the o-rings will be operating in a different zone initially anyway.....but the bench test idea is very schmart...just need to plumb a pump and check valve somehow to hold some pressure.... while I sleep! Doing it on the field not an option for a few months!
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