Thunderpig
Member
In the process for prepping my HS for priming and the deburring is endless, as many of you know. Anyone have any working experience with the E-Z Burr line of products?
..is that you'll end up with lots of deburring tools in your toolbox, before it's over. Personally, I prefer to use my scotchbrite wheel whenever possible for all edges. If the skin is too big for that, I have 1" diameter wheels I use to debur, chucked into a drill motor. For holes, I either use my hand debur tool, with a countersink bit screwed into it (although it's slow, it's precise), or I use a small 1/4" diameter countersink bit that chucks into my battery operated drill (it's faster, but be you must be careful not to over do it). In the end, the important think is that your are deburring things. I have seen a project where nothing was deburred, and it was hard to look at. Nothing was seated well (i.e. spar caps, skin overlaps, etc) and if you reached into the project at all, you risked cutting yourself on a lightening hole or other sharp edges.
I use the deburring bit from Cleveland Tool chucked in a small electric screwdriver. It works great, but like other deburring bits, it is a countersink so you need to take it easy with light to no pressure and ONLY 1 turn. In fact on the light skins like .016 rudder skins I forego a duburring bit and use a leather glove and scotchbrite pad. I also use a reamer instead of a drill bit to match drill on the really light skins.