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  #51  
Old 11-26-2014, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humptybump View Post
If you are only doing one job, you might ask your buddies if there is one to be borrowed. That said, I find I am doing more and more finish projects so I splurged for a dewalt variable speed with soft start (avoids some of the compound flinging)
And you can even tell her it was on sale....

This Item Is Included in Our DEWALT $25 Off $100 Holiday Promotion. From November 26, 2014, to December 22, 2014, when you spend $100 or more on select DEWALT tools and batteries shipped and sold by Amazon.com you can get $25 off at checkout.
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  #52  
Old 04-28-2017, 11:53 AM
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Default Thanks, Dan

I'm so glad I found Dan's awesome thread. Years ago I painted my plane with PPG Durathane and results were pretty bad in the orange peel department. I put the stuff on pretty thick so after reading this thread, I have hope that I can fix it. Since the original paint job, I have modified my cowling for a different exhaust system, and have been flying it in primer. Sadly, it appears that Durathane is no longer manufactured, which is sad because it has been fantastically durable and is highly chemical resistant. I have been looking for something similar but all I can find is Imron 3.5 HG at $255 per quart. Ungggh! Any suggestions would be highly appreciated since painting weather is rapidly approaching
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  #53  
Old 04-28-2017, 12:25 PM
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PPG Deltron DBC basecoat and DCU2021 clear is holding up very well at 6 years into the game.
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  #54  
Old 04-28-2017, 01:48 PM
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Thanks for the tip but I'm going to stick with the single stage polyurethane paint. It's just plain white.
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Last edited by snopercod : 04-28-2017 at 01:51 PM.
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  #55  
Old 04-24-2018, 12:12 PM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
I'm so glad I found Dan's awesome thread. Years ago I painted my plane with PPG Durathane and results were pretty bad in the orange peel department. I put the stuff on pretty thick so after reading this thread, I have hope that I can fix it. Since the original paint job, I have modified my cowling for a different exhaust system, and have been flying it in primer. Sadly, it appears that Durathane is no longer manufactured, which is sad because it has been fantastically durable and is highly chemical resistant. I have been looking for something similar but all I can find is Imron 3.5 HG at $255 per quart. Ungggh! Any suggestions would be highly appreciated since painting weather is rapidly approaching
Take a look at "engineered siloxane" resins such as PPG PSX 700 or Sherwin Williams XLE-80. No isocyanates, low viscosity so sprays fine without thinning, tough as epoxy, UV and chemical resistance better than polyurethane, goes onto bare metal, legal even in California.

Here's a good place to buy pigments and dyes: https://www.paintwithpearl.com/. This is their Sapphire Blue Candy Pearl (10% by weight two light coats followed by clear, cut&buff, ~6 mil total thickness, about 16 lbs per airplane) after a few months of practice and an upgrade to DeVilbiss GTi Pro with T110 aircap (Harbor Freight guns will result in a Harbor Freight finish; ymmv):



Perhaps if we all ask very politely, DanH will find the time to update the photo links in this most excellent thread.
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  #56  
Old 06-07-2018, 02:38 PM
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Dan, is there any chance we can get your original photos back?
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  #57  
Old 06-08-2018, 08:34 AM
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Default Blending

Anyone know the best way to blend something like this? It's single stage Full-Thane.

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  #58  
Old 06-08-2018, 10:01 AM
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Default Tape Line?

Is that a tape line!? IMHO, that is going to be somewhere between very difficult and impossible to blend. Paint spot repairs with blending, by their nature, require a tapering of the new paint thickness down to zero where it transitions to the old paint (the blend). You usually shoot the paint to a feather edge out a good ways from the actual repair area. The photo shows a large "step" (tape line) and very little surface area of new paint in which to create the "taper".

If I was going to attempt it, I would probably tape back close to the tape line again (to protect the old paint from the abuse to come at the line) and then a bit of scraping using a razor blade to knock the step down a bit (starting the taper) and then move to wet sandpaper on a block to move the taper out into the new paint. Remove the tape at some point and gradually use finer paper (always on a block), extending the blend into the old paint and then eventually move to buffer etc. Very tedious at best and I wouldn't want to bet on a good outcome (invisible blend).

Just my 2 cents based on my painting experiences.
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  #59  
Old 06-08-2018, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Langhout View Post
Is that a tape line!?
Yes. I guess I should have, but I really didn't want to paint the entire cowling top. I guess I'll try the razor blade trick discussed earlier. Thanks for the suggestions.
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  #60  
Old 06-08-2018, 11:48 AM
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Default paint block

I cannot remember the proper name but you can get a metal block that can shave cured paint. Like you I used a single stage paint (PPG DCC Concept) with no clear coat and then followed Dan's thread to cut and buff the orange peel, I bought the metal block to work small areas that I could not cut and buff easily.

My plane is basically all white and the PPG still looks good after 10 years http://pilotsareus.com/blog/

Figs
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