Anyone install their OAT probe through the bottom of the RV10 fuse in the battery compartment bay or the bay just aft? Any reason not to?
I didn't get mine until it was shipped with my panel from Stien,then it was too late to put it into the wing.
I didn't get mine until it was shipped with my panel from Stien,then it was too late to put it into the wing. Put it as far back as I could.
People will say that the exhaust will effect it. I really don't think so. Exhaust is going to get blown away well before it hits the probe. So far high speed taxiing around shows it gives the same reading as my GRT probe which which is in my front Naca scoop. But that also gives me point of reference as well.
Made the install a lot easier that's for sure.
Why was it too late?
It was already wired into our harness. Which meant fishing the actual probe itself out to the wing.
Once flying next month I'll do some testing and post if there's any discrepancies... I suspect that at the speeds the 10 goes, there won't be any issues, but I'll find out.
For what it's worth, I see ALOT of OAT probes installed in the NACA scoop.
Most certified planes they are on the windscreen about 6 inches for where mine is in the scoop.
... You might see a lot of OAT probes in NACA scoops on RV's, but that doesn't mean they are reading correctly. Those of us that have actually TESTED to location know that it doesn't work if you want accuracy.
It was already wired into our harness. Which meant fishing the actual probe itself out to the wing.
Once flying next month I'll do some testing and post if there's any discrepancies... I suspect that at the speeds the 10 goes, there won't be any issues, but I'll find out.
Ok. I was in your situation and simply cut the harness, mounted the probe to the inboard most right wing access panel and spliced the harness back together--easy-peazy. No issues in a 100 hrs.
Slight thread deviation but oat related. I have an optional OAT sensor for my chronometer. I decided to mount it in one of the wing access panels per previous discussions here on VAF. I didn't like that it wouldn't have any support other than the RTV that is used to hold it in place so I found a small snap bushing that it would slide into. My question is how far should this thermocouple extend out into the airstream to be effective / accurate?
So let me ask one more time before just giving it a try. For those who installed AFT NACA scoops to feed an overhead console in an RV10, has anyone tried putting an OAT probe in a rear NACA scoop?
For what it is worth, on my RV7, I ran mine (Dynon set-up) back with the wires going to the tail and mounted in on the rear inspection panel under the HS. ... .
For what it is worth, on my RV7, I ran mine (Dynon set-up) back with the wires going to the tail and mounted in on the rear inspection panel under the HS. Seemed to give good numbers and not affected by exhaust (i.e. never saw change with power setting changes, attitude, etc..). Very small gage wire so weight etc is no factor. Always seemed to provide accurate true airspeeds as well, to me a very nice benefit of having an OAT hooked to a glass cockpit. Not sure if I could "spin the dial" and get a true airspeed anymore, clearly spoiled by Dynon. Plan on the same location for the 10 I'm building.
Ok. I was in your situation and simply cut the harness, mounted the probe to the inboard most right wing access panel and spliced the harness back together--easy-peazy. No issues in a 100 hrs.
I called Dynon about cutting my OAT cable and splicing a piece into it because I mine is too short. They haven’t returned my call yet. Now that’s it’s been a few years since you did it, is it still a good idea to cut and splice it?
Just fine except for the fear of cutting a $400 RTD wire. I think best to solder the wires (Being an RTD, the resistance is critical to an accurate reading) and did so with a stagger cut, not all in the same axial location. I pulled back the shield and pulled it back over the splices to solder it back together and shrink wrapped the shield.
I had the fear but it worked out just fine. I tested both locations with thermocouples and watched the temperature deviations, with the under wing location as the winner.
IMO: It slowed the plane 3 kts, but had to be done.
AHA!!!! RTFM winds up being the answer to most of our questions.
How can the wire cost $400 when the entire assembly costs $35?
50' of RTD wire costs $23 https://www.automationdirect.com/ad.../thermocouple_-a-_rtd_extension_wire/rtd_wire
Anyway what's the difference between splicing it in and adding to it? There's still a resistance in the extra wire. Then I'd also have to go find those little connectors and install those.