View Single Post
Old 06-03-2018, 02:50 PM
rv6ejguy's Avatar
rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,060

Originally Posted by BillL View Post
The latest parallel valve engines (M1B) is made like your angle valve description and would need the tube cut/welded. Then, it has a formed flange for a fat o-ring fitting into the intake manifold/oil pan.

Kudos!! So let me understand, the intake tube flange will sit hard on the new flange on the bottom, then the o-ring seals between the top of that flange and the head, with the addition loose ring providing a hard clamping on the top side between the flange and head? This will result in the top end hard clamped with the ring insert, sealed with the o-ring, and floating (head motion) on the intake end of the tube?

In rewelding the tubes, do they need to be tacked in situ to ensure they are aligned and flat against the head?
There are various iterations of induction tube layouts. If you have a type that the OEM flange won't slide off freely, you'll have to cut the tube, install flange and re-weld the tube. Most older parallel valve engines, just slide the flange over the tube. Mike can probably tell you the best place to cut the AV type tube.

The O-ring sits against the tube flange, the tube flange contacts the CNC'd flange metal to metal, just as the stock parts do. The silver ring inside the O-ring contains the O-ring in its cavity when it's compressed to provide the proper degree of squish.

You can rotate the tube with some force when the bolts are tightened down.

Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 431.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016

Reply With Quote