Originally Posted by Captain Avgas
Scott, a fascinating and instructive post with great pix. However a couple of questions for you.
Can you tell me why you used the PPG DX330 Acryli-Clean to prep the canopy. My understanding from reading the product tech info is that the DX330 is not suitable for acrylic (despite the name). The PPG SX103 might have been the more appropriate product. Is it possible that the occlusions you developed arose through using the wrong cleaner.
I am surprised that when you were using a Polyvance adhesive (ie Plastifix Clear) you did not use the Polyvance cleaner (1000-A Super Prep Plastic Cleaner) to maintain compatibility.
And finally, the fact that the Plastifix Clear was not in reality clear at all (but translucent) must have been disappointing. Is it possible that a Weldon Product might have been more transparent.
That's a great question about using the DX330 Acryli-Clean
. I actually thought the same thing when the occlusions became visible.
From the PGG DX-Series Data Sheet: "PPG DX Cleaners are specifically designed to remove waxes, grease, silicones, road tar, engine oil, overspray, adhesives and other contaminants. They can be used on bare metal, primers, automotive finishes or to clean plastic parts
<emphasis mine>. DX Cleaners are packaged ready-to-use."
Throughout the painting process some 11 years ago, and especially when it came time to paint the areas around the windscreen and the canopy skirts, the DX330 cleaner proved the most effective cleaner for the job, and it does not attack acrylic like other cleaners.
website instructs users to apply their Super Prep 1000-A
, the contents of which are:
Petroleum gases 13-30%
The contents of the DX330 Acryli-Clean
Both cleaners use mostly Naptha as the contaminant removal solvent. The funny thing is, when I opened up the package of Plasti-Fix, the instructions directed me to use denatured alcohol!
To that end, I used the Acryli-Clean
because it has proven a great contaminant removal solvent so many times before. I didn't have any denatured alcohol around, so I used it. I found no literature anywhere, at the PPG website or otherwise, stating that it should not be used on acrylic. Please direct me to where you are finding that information.
Are the occlusions caused by the cleaner? I doubt it, but the thought has crossed my mind just as it has yours.
With the exception of the occlusions, I was not disappointed with the result. I knew from others far more experienced that the final result would be opaque, not nearly as transparent as the acrylic. As noted in the original post, I tried a Weld-On
product and was disappointed. The crack not only remained visible, but it continued to migrate after application.
Thanks for your insight, Bob. If the San Joaquin Valley fog manages to break open this weekend, I'll let you know how flight testing goes. I may end up using denatured alcohol or the Super Prep 1000-A