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Hot Starting IO 360

Bendix injection on mine, no prime, throttle open half inch +, mixture closed, when it starts open the mixture half to three quarter. She will shake like a wet dog for 3 to 5 seconds then smooth out, loping and stumbling on taxi out after a hot start is also normal.

Welcome to RVs!!!
 
as long as........

you dont prime it you cant go wrong. many different variations with throttle and mixture positioms. you can always add fuel, once its flooded though, then you have a long crank. you see those planes start after fueling up and a long start, smoke, shaking, too much fuel. ok do the right thing. turbo:D
 
Hot start that always works for me is
mixture full rich
throttle full
boost pump on for 5 seconds
boost pump off
mixture to idle cutoff
throttle stays full
start cranking and it usually fires within 2 revolutions
when it fires slowly bring throttle back and mixture forward about 1/4 of the way at a time

It's worked great for 200+ hours and 2 years. The priming clears out any hot gasoline and maybe (probably) prevents vapor lock. It also makes sure you know what condition the engine is in. Slightly flooded. By putting mixture control in idle cutoff it will lean out quickly and reach the right mixture to fire.
 
Lots of Different Answers!

Wow, flooding the engine before unflooding it; that can't be good for cylinder wall lubrication, can it?

I think that part of the discussion needs to include the shut off procedure, always shut off with the fuel knob to clear the cylinders of fuel.

I give it full throttle (half if it has been sitting for more than two hours), start with the mixture knob all the way back, feed it in as I crank it, works like a charm. Be ready to pull the throttle back when it fires. Dual pmags probably help.

Hans
 
This works consistently for me at Reno (5000 ft):

Mixture full lean
Throttle 1/4 to 1/2
No boost pump
Crank till it fires (usually 1-2 blades max) and add mixture, retard throttle

Occasionally (depending on how long the engine has been sitting and if the standard procedure doesn't work first time), I will do what bubblehead suggested, that is, flood the engine on purpose with the boost pump and full rich, then use the same procedure listed above. That guarantees that you know the state of the engine fuel system to start.

Everyone eventually develops their own system that works with their own engine.

greg
 
Mixture full lean
Throttle full
No boost pump or a couple of seconds at most
While cranking, pull the throttle slowly back till it fires (there will be place that the air/fuel mixture is just right to fire up)
As it fires up, push the mixture in slowly.
This method works for me 99.9% of the time. The time that it doesn't work, I will use the same method and the second time around will fire up for sure.
 
Bendix injection on mine, no prime, throttle open half inch +, mixture closed, when it starts open the mixture half to three quarter. She will shake like a wet dog for 3 to 5 seconds then smooth out, loping and stumbling on taxi out after a hot start is also normal.

Welcome to RVs!!!

AFTER getting it started, turning on the boost pump will prevent the loping and stumbling on taxi out after a hot start. Watch the fuel pressure when this is happening with the boost pump on then off, you will be surprised what you see.
 
Big difference on mine; Bendix RSA-5. I also lean to the max; all the way until the MP needle is off the zero peg, any more and the engine will die.
 
The original post didnt indicate what kind of FI system was installed, but if its an AFP ( and some others as well), then the first thing to do for a hot start is to flush the system of hot fuel and vapor using the purge valve and the boost pump. I run mine a good 30-45 seconds to really flush it out. If the purge line is teed into the feed line from a tank rather than going to the tank itself, make sure you have your fuel tank selector valve set to the opposite tank so that you are not just circulating hot fuel and vapor around in a loop.

erich
 
An observation.
I saw a guy start a 7 one day. It was a hot start and he used the full throttle method. He wasnt fast enough a bring the throttle back as it fired and from the sound of it it reached at least 2000RPM in about 2 seconds. The tail went way up, the prop went way down, how it didnt dig into the ground is beyond me. Scared him and everyone else who saw it. He quickly changed his method to mixture lean and throttle just cracked. I cant understand why anyone would start with full throttle when the other method works so well. Dont know about you but I only have two hands and one is on the start button.
 
...from the sound of it it reached at least 2000RPM in about 2 seconds. ... He quickly changed his method to mixture lean and throttle just cracked. I cant understand why anyone would start with full throttle when the other method works so well. Dont know about you but I only have two hands and one is on the start button.
The real problem with this method is that you don't have any oil pressure when it first fires up. Starting a low RPM's is much better for the engine, any engine, with any type of fuel system.
 
from the book..........

img0357jp.jpg
:D
 
The real problem with this method is that you don't have any oil pressure when it first fires up. Starting a low RPM's is much better for the engine, any engine, with any type of fuel system.

What is the true oil pressure and how slowly the pressure meter will respond to that? We are also talking about hot engine, and I believe a lot of oil is still around the engine and not all of it at the bottom. And one thing more: we are talking seconds here, not hours and hundred of hours which these things are made to work.

I'm not claiming that it wouldn't be better to have gentle start, but just questioning is that really an issue.
 
by the ..........

time some people take to start a hot engine there is lots of oil being pumped in the engine!!!!!!!!! oh yea!!!!!!:D
 
I'll second that one

An observation.
I saw a guy start a 7 one day. It was a hot start and he used the full throttle method. He wasnt fast enough a bring the throttle back as it fired and from the sound of it it reached at least 2000RPM in about 2 seconds. The tail went way up, the prop went way down, how it didnt dig into the ground is beyond me. Scared him and everyone else who saw it. He quickly changed his method to mixture lean and throttle just cracked. I cant understand why anyone would start with full throttle when the other method works so well. Dont know about you but I only have two hands and one is on the start button.

I was standing a bit too close to an aircraft when the fella used the above mentioned procedure once. He almost did a 180 into the ship parked next to him before he get 'er under control. I do not care to see that again!

The full throttle method, in conjunction with an MT or Whirlwind prop, is a recipe for disaster. These props are very light, and allow max RPM to develop quickly -- possibly before you could get the throttle back -- with potential spectacular results. Not good!

I urge you (ALL of you) to practice until you can do the 1/4 throttle (~1200RPM) procedure -- it is a far safer method for you, your wallet, and others around you. The Lycs start easy enough in ICO, after a bit of prime @ FT/full rich (1-2 seconds at most -- you will hear the pressure rise, indicating that the system is purged. Stop the pump at this point - try to NOT flood the engine).

Hot starting a TCM engine is a different art, generally done with the mixture full rich -- I am still learning that one. Ugh..

It may be that the new injection system from ECI behaves more like the TCM system, in which case those so equipped are warned against the Lyc procedures.

Additional item:
If your FI engine does not have a sniffle valve, GET ONE. Route the overflow out of the cowling with a hose or hard tubing.
Airflow Performance: 864.576.4512 "#1090138 drain valve"

Also, if it feels like Phoenix/Houston in August when you are doing this hot start, hit the boost pump switch once she's running to keep secondary vapor locking out of the loop. Adjust mixture as required for a smooth idle -- leaner is better in this case.

Carry on!
Mark
 
The best method I've found is the O-360, works every time. :)

W/ my former IO-360:

Throttle cracked a bit;
Mixture cut-off;
Boost pump for 1-2 seconds;
Crank and ease mixture forward after a turn or two of the prop;

Cheers.
 
Eci io360

I've been experimenting this question for about 300 hours. TITAN Eci Io360 and here is my new sequence for cold and hot. Cold in Florida isn't ever really cold. Shut down at 1500 rpm, leave throttle there, mixture rich, fuel pump on, watch for pressure and flow, push starter button until fired and running. If cold, pump can go to off quickly. If hot, pump off after the engine is running well without sputtering. I experimented after flights and discovered the engine can run well near idle with the Andair pump on too. It is rich, but running well enough to clear the vapor and hot fuel.
 
I'm a newbie but does having one mag being electronic ignition help this issue moving into a future of electronic mags?

Neighbor has a Continental in Mooney with one mag done thing hot starts like our cars.

Again a newbie just asking.
 
Hot start io-360

My procedure is throttle in full and mixture at full cutoff.....hit the starter ,when she fires reverse the throttle then full rich. Mine fires every time
 
http://11hc.44rf.com/manuals/engine-prop/lycoming/lycoming---operator's_manual.pdf

I pretty much follow the manual. I have a wobble pump so it is slightly different but the same concept. I do the same start procedure hot/warm/cold.

1. Mixture full rich.
2. Throttle half.
3. Work the wobble pump till I see pressure.
4. Throttle 1" open.
5. Hit the starter.
6. When it fires, mixture rich.

I slightly flood the engine so I KNOW the condition of the mixture, then lean it till the correct mixture is in the cylinder and it will fire. When it is hot, running cold fuel through the fuel lines clears out any vapor lock.

Works fine on any FI engine I have flown.
 
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