What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Air filter box

I've posted before on adding an aluminum plate at the bottom.

Consider adding a .032 3/4" x 3/4" support angle from the front plate screw to the engine case bolt above it. This will help prevent the top cover cracking. The

If you want to get fancy, you can invert the top cover and use the taller E-100 K&N filter.

Photos available if you PM me your email.

Carl
 
I ran a strip of alum on the outside where the rivets hold the box to the top plate. The FG box gets sandwiched between the top plate on the inside and the alum strip on the outside. I've seen the rivet heads "eat" into the FG and loosen over time. Also used proseal between the layers.
I have also used a support towards the front of the box running from engine to the top plate of the box as described above.
I have also added the alum plate to the bottom of the box as mentioned above.
Cheers.
Johan
 
The plans also have you mount the rubber transition between cowl air inlet and filter box to the front of the filter box. I changed mine and mounted the bottom U shape to the cowl air inlet snout, with the top part (also U shaped so that the two parts fit well) mounted to the top of the FB. That way when you remove the bottom cowl, you can just drop it down, replacing the bottom cowl there is no need for fishing the rubber out.
Johan
 
One other question. The two drain holes you drill in the bottom of the air box. The plans state either just drill the two holes, or the other option is glass in a drain tube in the bottom. For a fuel injected system, is the drain tube needed?
 
One other question. The two drain holes you drill in the bottom of the air box. The plans state either just drill the two holes, or the other option is glass in a drain tube in the bottom. For a fuel injected system, is the drain tube needed?

I glassed in a fitting that allows me to attach a drain tube (and remove it). I'm glad I did. Had trouble starting engine first time. Looked on the ground after several tries and saw a puddle of oil (preservative oil, I assume) that had made its way through the tube. Took off the FAB at that point and cleaned it, etc. No problems since.
 
One other question. The two drain holes you drill in the bottom of the air box. The plans state either just drill the two holes, or the other option is glass in a drain tube in the bottom. For a fuel injected system, is the drain tube needed?

Glass it in. That will be the overflow when the engine is flooded. It is common to have flooding during engine start with FI engines. You don't want that fuel spilling inside the cowling. There are 2 adel clamps on the center bracket at cowl exit, one for draining the FAB when flooded, and one draining fuel from mechanical fuel pump should the diaphragm start to leak. I think they are both needed.
I also added a length of silicone tubing between the FAB and cowl exit to absorb the relative movement between FAB and center bracket at cowl exit.
Johan
 
We built a fully fabricated aluminium......or aluminum for you guys :D air box. Solved all the issues :)
 
Also make sure that your filter is squeezed tight. Any movement and the filter will eat right through the bottom of the FAB. I usually glue in an aluminium base ito the FAB
 
On the Van's instructions they have you use a foam block against the cowl intake. Then you carve out a tunnel and glass the wall of the tunnel to create a transition fron the cowl inlet to the air box. Any other options then the Van's method.
 
I've got a removable "snorkel" on my RV6 & 10, which is an alternative to the standard which allows for easier fitting/removal of the bottom cowl, it also removes any strain/wear/vibration from the connection of cowl to fab Box. Not my original idea, plagerised from another builder here. Can be as basic as you like or more involved if you like a bit of glass work. It's a slide fit into the fab box with a scat Hose fitted to a glass removable addition to the bottom cowl opening. Can send pics to anyone interested. Cheers from Western Australia
 
I've got a removable "snorkel" on my RV6 & 10, which is an alternative to the standard which allows for easier fitting/removal of the bottom cowl, it also removes any strain/wear/vibration from the connection of cowl to fab Box. Not my original idea, plagerised from another builder here. Can be as basic as you like or more involved if you like a bit of glass work. It's a slide fit into the fab box with a scat Hose fitted to a glass removable addition to the bottom cowl opening. Can send pics to anyone interested. Cheers from Western Australia

I'd like to see those pictures. Can you send them to me? ppilotmike at gmail dot com. Thanks.
 
Pics and info sent Mike, Still working out how to post pics here Bill. What's the protocol of giving details of where to find on Matronics ? Don't want to step out of line ��
 
Hi, if you are not able to post, I would appreciate copy of pictures also.

"n62km" @ yahoo.com

Thx

Steve
 
Last edited:
Here are GregMac's pictures and write up of his air box.

[FONT=&quot]Hi Vern, Yes that's quite OK for you to post any or all of these pics, I've included the basic method I used. These are pics of my RV6 &10 air intake snorkels. Bit of work but worth it I think, what I used was PVC pipe 2 1/4" ID for the 6 & 2 3/4" ID for the RV10. Open out the front of the fab box to take the PVC and cut out top and bottom of the existing opening in the bottom cowl (more out of the bottom is best) to allow the PVC to go through. With fab box and bottom cowl fitted push PVC pipe in to get the angle of the dangle right, apply epoxy flox mix in a couple of spots top and bottom only to secure the pipe to cowl, only have the pipe just in the fab box enough to get the angle right because you need to be able to remove the cowl to do the rest of the work. When cured carefully remove the cowl, fill in around pipe to cowl meeting with plasticine, trim the pipe to your preferred length then glass over PVC pipe to fit the existing bottom cowl (cling wrap, release agent applied of course to the cowl ! ) TIP......leave glass about an inch longer than the outside end of the pipe, fold wet glass into pipe and then push in any weighted curved shape, until cured. When cured shape can be removed and internal excess removed, gives a nice curve/finish to the end of the snorkel. After cured, get in with a hacksaw blade and cut through those couple of epoxy/flox spots that were to hold the pipe at the right angle. Now the snorkel can be removed from the cowl and final shaped, cut the PVC pipe off to allow about 2inches on the inside, previously sized scat Hose can then be fitted over the pipe and secured with whatever you like, I just used normal silicone. Fit/glass into the fab a suitable sized bit of PVC to let the scat slide fit in, on the ten I went to the trouble of fitting an end to the scat, but on the six I just used the scat. Make sure you have enough scat Hose that it must be compressed when it all goes together, that allows the scat to flex between the fab and cowl, scat, uncompressed takes a lot of pressure to make it give sideways. When I undo the screws the snorkel springs out about an inch. Nut plates riveted to small scrap ally bent to fit inside cowl and floxed in with the screws tight and in place is how I secured the unit........I built up the cowl to fit the snorkel but you could just feather it down to save work. Advantages for all this, bit less drag cause of better shape, easier removal and fitting of bottom cowl, takes tension vibration off fab box, but takes time ! Hope that's of interest to you, let me know if you need any more info. Cheers Greg. ........................... the extra opening on the bottom of my cowl is unrelated, it's the air intake for my oil cooler which as you can see is not in the standard position.


mcfarland1.jpg


mcfarland3.jpg
mcfarland4.jpg
mcfarland2.jpg

[/FONT]
 
Back
Top