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Cleveland upgrade kit 199-93

whd721

Well Known Member
I just experienced the thrill of loss of braking on the right brake. Red 5606 dribbling everywhere. Cutting donuts at the hold short line WOO HOO!

Does anyone have experience/ opinions about the advertised Cleveland upgrade kit pn# 100-93?

It apparently improves braking capacity with new rotors and brake assemblies.

Thanks for input.
 
Opinions vary of course, but having flown them both ways, I think the 199 kit is a BIG plus on an A-model.

Brake disks are an energy storage device. The disc in the 199 kit is 0.250" thicker, thus able to store more heat before reaching critical temperature.

There is probably a certification standard, but for our purposes, "critical temperature" can be defined two ways. One might be the point where brake fade is becoming excessive. In this regard the 199 kit just feels good...great brakes to a full stop

The other is when the disk is hot enough to push the inboard pad, piston, and o-ring temperature above 250~300. The standard neoprene o-ring dies a quick death, and leaves you parked in a red puddle, or worse.

Two downsides. The kit makes the caliper assembly 1/4" wider, so it may contact the wheel pant. And the kit adds about 1 lb.
 
I just experienced the thrill of loss of braking on the right brake. Red 5606 dribbling everywhere. Cutting donuts at the hold short line WOO HOO!

Does anyone have experience/ opinions about the advertised Cleveland upgrade kit pn# 100-93?

It apparently improves braking capacity with new rotors and brake assemblies.

Thanks for input.

I don't know anything about the kit - how much is it anyway?

I did have a seal blowout, although not too dramatic - I returned to the hangar one day to a pool of brake fluid. I replaced the standard seals with vitron seals, and have not had a reoccurrence. I'm a heavy user of brakes to make the first taxiway, so that combined with the probable age of the original seal may have contributed to the failure. I am looking for better braking performance, so I considered replacing the wheels and brakes with Grove parts. I didn't realize that their was a Cleveland "upgrade." Something to consider.
 
Search "upgrade kit 199-93" on AirCraft Spruce. $674

Which is roughly 1/2 the cost of upgrading with the Grove parts - but with a similar upgrade in performance? Both avenues probably require some modification to the wheel pants, but does anyone know the difference in performance compared to each other and stock?
 
I have had the Grove upgrade installed for several years. It is a dual piston caliper with longer pads, and a thicker rotor. I hated my stock brakes, and felt they were woefully inadequate. I am still on the original set of pads. The braking difference is very noticeable, and if you press too hard, you can lock the wheels up, but that has only happened to me once. Of course I was trying to make an early turnout. I released the pressure and did not flat spot the tire. The bleeder fitting does touch the wheelpant at the bottom. The wheel pant bracket needs to be trimmed for clearance. I am very happy with the performance and feel of the brakes now, and I have extra braking I can use if necessary.
 
Additional info for those who still care.

Cleveland Wheel and Brake Product Catalog Pub Num is AWBPC0001-20/USA

The Vans stock wheel assembly is listed on page 5-33 - 34. The actual assy. part number is 40-78B. The upgrade kit wheel assy. part number is 40-230 on the same pages.

I guess for now I will stay with the stock Vans Cleveland set up. My normal take off weight is approximately 1500 lbs with landing less fuel burned around 1400 lbs. I apparently have had a draggy right brake as the right linings are at min while the left lining is near new dimensions.

I am going to install the single bolt mod and booster spring on the right master and watch the dragging right brake for a period. Next decision this winter when the clouds are thicker and lower.
 
I just experienced the thrill of loss of braking on the right brake. Red 5606 dribbling everywhere. Cutting donuts at the hold short line WOO HOO!

Does anyone have experience/ opinions about the advertised Cleveland upgrade kit pn# 100-93?

It apparently improves braking capacity with new rotors and brake assemblies.

Thanks for input.

Do some thread searching.... I converted my 6A for under $200. I used Rapco discs, and made my own spacer from ACE hardware 1/8" alum bar stock. I did need a shim to move the wheel away from the pant bracket. It also requires you to install 1/8 inch longer pad plate bolts.

How well does it work? The brakes work great.... I have not had any fade. The disc at the bell shows no sign of heat. And the brake pads look like they are going to last at least twice as long.
 
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Do some thread searching.... I converted my 6A for under $200. I used Rapco discs, and made my own spacer from ACE hardware 1/4" alum bar stock. I did need a shim to move the wheel away from the pant bracket. It also requires you to install 1/4 inch longer pad plate bolts.

How well does it work? The brakes work great.... I have not had any fade. The disc at the bell shows no sign of heat. And the brake pads look like they are going to last at least twice as long.

This is the way to go...
 
Do some thread searching.... I converted my 6A for under $200. I used Rapco discs, and made my own spacer from ACE hardware 1/4" alum bar stock. I did need a shim to move the wheel away from the pant bracket. It also requires you to install 1/4 inch longer pad plate bolts.

How well does it work? The brakes work great.... I have not had any fade. The disc at the bell shows no sign of heat. And the brake pads look like they are going to last at least twice as long.

This is the way to go...

Having just performed this myself before Oshkosh, I agree also!
 
Found the Rapco site.
It is not apparent what the Rapco advantage is. The disc appears to a replacement for the Cleveland disc. The caliper is the existing Cleveland 30-9. I am interested in any improvement. Am I looking at the wrong disc?
 
Found the Rapco site.
It is not apparent what the Rapco advantage is. The disc appears to a replacement for the Cleveland disc. The caliper is the existing Cleveland 30-9. I am interested in any improvement. Am I looking at the wrong disc?

Upgrade kit 199-93 comes with thicker discs, part number 164-09900. These are thicker than stock and provide the benefits DanH mentioned above, not necessarily any advantage of one brand over another.

Following the lead of others, I purchased just the discs, made a new or additional spacer for the pads at the caliper to accommodate the thicker disc, bought longer caliper bolts to accommodate the spacer, and shimmed the wheel out on the axle slightly as required to get clearance between the thicker disc and the wheel pant.
 
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Found the Rapco site.
It is not apparent what the Rapco advantage is. The disc appears to a replacement for the Cleveland disc. The caliper is the existing Cleveland 30-9. I am interested in any improvement. Am I looking at the wrong disc?

The advantage is price..... Find and compare in A/C spruce catalog.

I will get the numbers of all the things that you need to make the change. I am out of town till the first. Maybe SCARD can jump in with some part numbers.

All part numbers are in past posts if you can find them.
 
I did install the 199-93 upgrade

When I made my decision, I found that the FAR part 23 for certified planes explains how to calculate the minimum braking, specifically the Kinetic Energy absorption. The stock brakes (at Van's specified gross weight) meet the requirement easily. The spec is at 23.735.

So why did I upgrade? Because in my opinion, with a full castering nose wheel the guideline from the FAA isn't good enough. Their figuring is that braking will start at stall speed. What happens if you reject a takeoff at 70 mph? It exceeds the brake energy absorption capabilities by 16%. How about high altitude ops? What ground speed are you at when the airspeed is 70? Significantly more. The 199-93 kit gives a 32% improvement in absorption for a weight of about a pound. I've been happy with my brakes.

-Bryan
 
I must not have the ?Magic decoder ring?.

I have spent several hours searching the forum and have not found a thread that shows issues found with the installation. I have found the Rapco disc is a 164?09900, I think this disc is the same as the original Van?s disc except approximately 1/8? thicker. The shim required looks to be approximately the size of the machined face with two matching holes. However, note that ACS wants ~ $460 for a pair of these shims from Cleveland???? Why?

My concern is starting the process and then finding an issue with wheel spacing or some other interference that will take weeks to resolve. Photos could help.

For those that care;

The Van?s Cleveland disc is a 164-01700 0.182? thick new and 0.167? min.
The upgrade Rapco disc is a 164-09900 0.295? thick new and 0.275? min.

The difference between the Cleveland disc and the Rapco disc is 0.295- 0.182= 0.113 ~/+ to 0.125 for the shim.

Matco Brake liners are 0.186 thick new and 0.100 thick min.

Use Dow Corning #55 o-ring lube for the piston o-ring.

Use locktite C5A anti seize for the anchor bolts.
 
I must not have the “Magic decoder ring”.

I have spent several hours searching the forum and have not found a thread that shows issues found with the installation. I have found the Rapco disc is a 164—09900, I think this disc is the same as the original Van’s disc except approximately 1/8” thicker. The shim required looks to be approximately the size of the machined face with two matching holes. However, note that ACS wants ~ $460 for a pair of these shims from Cleveland???? Why?

My concern is starting the process and then finding an issue with wheel spacing or some other interference that will take weeks to resolve. Photos could help.

For those that care;

The Van’s Cleveland disc is a 164-01700 0.182” thick new and 0.167” min.
The upgrade Rapco disc is a 164-09900 0.295” thick new and 0.275” min.

The difference between the Cleveland disc and the Rapco disc is 0.295- 0.182= 0.113 ~/+ to 0.125 for the shim.

Matco Brake liners are 0.186 thick new and 0.100 thick min.

Use Dow Corning #55 o-ring lube for the piston o-ring.

Use locktite C5A anti seize for the anchor bolts.

The shim needed is here..... It's an Arbor Shim...... .1250x1 1/4 Granger part # 5GB11

This should help also..... http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=1144203&postcount=18
 
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Gasman,

I think I have assembled my upgrade kit, discs are in hand, bolts here and I have Al 1/8" stock is waiting fabrication. The Arbor Shims arrive tomorrow.

One last question how did you adjust to insert the cotter key back, trim the VA-106 or re-drill the hole?
 
I carefully removed the shim thickness from the nut with the belt sander so everything fit including the cotter pin. IIRC it was .062
 
I carefully removed the shim thickness from the nut with the belt sander so everything fit including the cotter pin. IIRC it was .062

Yep. That. I did it with a lathe, but basic care with hand tools should work just fine.
 
upgrade kit - that's not all:

"Red 5606 dribbling everywhere."

Make sure you are using the latest upgrade of brake fluid (if you use aircraft stuff - 5606H/Royco 756 @$14/qt?) - or switch to Mobil 1 ATF which meets the specs of the A/C fluid (220C flash point), but is available at your local Wal-Mart (less expensive - $3/qt?, no HAZMAT shipping etc). Also switch to the better O rings - Buna-N/Viton material seems to be about the best at 400F rating.

Get your O-rings here:
https://www.oringsusa.com/index.html
Might keep a spare set of O-rings in the plane. Getting the fluid is easy.

Mobil 1 ATF specs:
https://mobiloil.com/en/automatic-transmission-fluid/synthetic-atf

Royco specs:
http://anderol.com/deployedfiles/ChemturaV8/Anderol-en-US/Products/Royco 756 and 756A Datasheet.pdf

Best,
Mark
 
"Red 5606 dribbling everywhere."

Make sure you are using the latest upgrade of brake fluid (if you use aircraft stuff - 5606H/Royco 756 @$14/qt?) - or switch to Mobil 1 ATF which meets the specs of the A/C fluid (220C flash point), but is available at your local Wal-Mart (less expensive - $3/qt?, no HAZMAT shipping etc). Also switch to the better O rings - Buna-N/Viton material seems to be about the best at 400F rating.

Get your O-rings here:
https://www.oringsusa.com/index.html
Might keep a spare set of O-rings in the plane. Getting the fluid is easy.

Mobil 1 ATF specs:
https://mobiloil.com/en/automatic-transmission-fluid/synthetic-atf

Royco specs:
http://anderol.com/deployedfiles/ChemturaV8/Anderol-en-US/Products/Royco 756 and 756A Datasheet.pdf

Best,
Mark

You wouldn't happen to have a part number for the O rings would you Mark?
 
Gasman,

I think I have assembled my upgrade kit, discs are in hand, bolts here and I have Al 1/8" stock is waiting fabrication. The Arbor Shims arrive tomorrow.

One last question how did you adjust to insert the cotter key back, trim the VA-106 or re-drill the hole?

Let us know how you did. I got the shims from Grainger in a day, but the Rapco disk is B.O. from both east and west ACS (I checked last week and they were in stock: must be a lot of lurkers following this thread :) )

Question about the shims: do they simply slide onto the axle first / inboard of the wheel?
 
Let us know how you did. I got the shims from Grainger in a day, but the Rapco disk is B.O. from both east and west ACS (I checked last week and they were in stock: must be a lot of lurkers following this thread :) )

Question about the shims: do they simply slide onto the axle first / inboard of the wheel?
Yes.... but first coat them with bearing grease. After you confirm nothing is rubbing, measure the shim then shave, grind or machine that same amount (thickness) of the shim off the face of the nut.
 
Hi Guys,

I must have gotten the last Rapcos. I ordered Rapco 164-09900s and received them in three days.
I installed new brake liners and the discs today. I used teflon pipe dope on the AN fittings, o-ring lube on the piston/o-rings and anti seize on the anchor bolts.

I had to leave before I could bleed the lines and test everything.


Tomorrow.....
 
In early September, I Discovered the importance of two working brakes in a RV9A. I taxied up to the hold short line, stepped on the brakes and started doing left donuts.
The O-Ring had overheated and assumed a square section, thus dribbling red.
This is my upgrade installation, first brake job, based mostly on this forum in bits and pieces and the Cleveland publications.
I hope others find it helpful.

The Discs:
-The Cleveland upgrade kit is a Cleveland upgrade Kit 199-93 contains every thing you need (I Think) for $ 674 from ACS.
-The Van?s Original Replacement Cleveland disc is a 164-01700 $169 from ACS. The Disc is 0.182? thick new and fails at 0.167? min.
-The upgrade Rapco disc is a 164-09900 $98.50 from ACS. The Disc is 0.295? thick new and fails at 0.275? min.
-The difference between the Cleveland disc and the Rapco disc is 0.295- 0.182= 0.113 ~= to 0.125 for the shim.

The Brake Assembly
-Matco Brake liners are 0.186 thick new and 0.100 thick min.
-Use Dow Corning #55 o-ring lube for the piston o-ring.
-Use locktite C5A anti seize for the anchor bolts.
-Use Arbor Shim 0.0620 x 1.25 ID x 1.750 OD PN# 5GA99 from Grainger
-Use Bleeder valve cap PN# 183 00100 from ACS
-O-Ring MS28775-218 $0.49/ea from ACS

INFO
-Parker Hannifin Corp.
1-800-272-7537
-Cleveland Wheel and Brake Product catalog
Pub Number AWBPC0001-20/USA


Tools Used
-Brake Fluid Reservoir vent. 7/16? Wrench.
-My brake fluid drain tube with AN fittings 1/2? & 9/16? Wrenchs.
-Brake assembly Bleed Fitting 1/4? 6 Point box end combination Wrench. Use the six Point end only to tighten and break loose the Bleed fitting. It is tiny.
-VA-106 Axle Nut. 1 1/2? Socket.
Backplate Bolts 7/16? Wrench.

The Procedure
-Remove the brake Assembly and one Wheel using your preferred jacking method.
-Let the air out of the tire.
-I used for wooden stakes and four bar clamps to hold the wheel assembly together, while removing the three bolts holding the wheel and disc together. Replace the disc with the new disc.
-Lube the Axle and install arbor shims and slide the wheel back on. Vans wants 0.032 to 0.094? gap between the disc and U-810 (The inside Main Wheel Fairing support plate). Add or remove shims to achieve the gap.
-Reinstall the Axle Nut and adjust by sanding the inside end to allow the Cotter key to be reinserted.
-Make two 1/8? Al spacer to the shape of the machined surface on the Back Plate.
-Lube the o-ring, piston and cyl with the o-ring lube.
-Lube the Anchor bolts and the anchor bolt holes with the anti seize.
-Use a 3/16? dowel to insert through the top bolt hole, the shim and the back plate. This will hold that assembly in place while starting the lower bolt into the backing plate. The top bolt is then easy to install.
-Bolt torque for Backplates 75-80 inch-lbs.
 
In early September, I Discovered the importance of two working brakes in a RV9A. I taxied up to the hold short line, stepped on the brakes and started doing left donuts.
The O-Ring had overheated and assumed a square section, thus dribbling red.
This is my upgrade installation, first brake job, based mostly on this forum in bits and pieces and the Cleveland publications.
I hope others find it helpful.

The Discs:
-The Cleveland upgrade kit is a Cleveland upgrade Kit 199-93 contains every thing you need (I Think) for $ 674 from ACS.
-The Van’s Original Replacement Cleveland disc is a 164-01700 $169 from ACS. The Disc is 0.182” thick new and fails at 0.167” min.
-The upgrade Rapco disc is a 164-09900 $98.50 from ACS. The Disc is 0.295” thick new and fails at 0.275” min.
-The difference between the Cleveland disc and the Rapco disc is 0.295- 0.182= 0.113 ~= to 0.125 for the shim.

The Brake Assembly
-Matco Brake liners are 0.186 thick new and 0.100 thick min.
-Use Dow Corning #55 o-ring lube for the piston o-ring.
-Use locktite C5A anti seize for the anchor bolts.
-Use Arbor Shim 0.0620 x 1.25 ID x 1.750 OD PN# 5GA99 from Grainger
-Use Bleeder valve cap PN# 183 00100 from ACS
-O-Ring MS28775-218 $0.49/ea from ACS

INFO
-Parker Hannifin Corp.
1-800-272-7537
-Cleveland Wheel and Brake Product catalog
Pub Number AWBPC0001-20/USA


Tools Used
-Brake Fluid Reservoir vent. 7/16” Wrench.
-My brake fluid drain tube with AN fittings 1/2” & 9/16” Wrenchs.
-Brake assembly Bleed Fitting 1/4” 6 Point box end combination Wrench. Use the six Point end only to tighten and break loose the Bleed fitting. It is tiny.
-VA-106 Axle Nut. 1 1/2” Socket.
Backplate Bolts 7/16” Wrench.

The Procedure
-Remove the brake Assembly and one Wheel using your preferred jacking method.
-Let the air out of the tire.
-I used for wooden stakes and four bar clamps to hold the wheel assembly together, while removing the three bolts holding the wheel and disc together. Replace the disc with the new disc.
-Lube the Axle and install arbor shims and slide the wheel back on. Vans wants 0.032 to 0.094” gap between the disc and U-810 (The inside Main Wheel Fairing support plate). Add or remove shims to achieve the gap.
-Reinstall the Axle Nut and adjust by sanding the inside end to allow the Cotter key to be reinserted.
-Make two 1/8” Al spacer to the shape of the machined surface on the Back Plate.
-Lube the o-ring, piston and cyl with the o-ring lube.
-Lube the Anchor bolts and the anchor bolt holes with the anti seize.
-Use a 3/16” dowel to insert through the top bolt hole, the shim and the back plate. This will hold that assembly in place while starting the lower bolt into the backing plate. The top bolt is then easy to install.
-Bolt torque for Backplates 75-80 inch-lbs.

I performed the Vitron O-ring upgrade after blowing out the right main brake a couple years ago - no problems since. I rebuilt the master cylinders last year because one was leaking significantly. The rebuild kit replaces the internal spring which eliminated my need for external return spring mod. The rebuild also replaces the shaft, which apparently is a wear item. Mine had a noticeable wear area that you could feel, which I think was causing the leak. Unfortunately another very small leak has developed, so I'm considering replacing the master cylinders with Grove units at some point. And I'm going to look the the geometry of the setup once again.

I currently have the right main off to replace the tire, and I was hoping to do the brake discs at the same time, but unfortunately ACS is out-of-stock on the fatter disc. I'm going to call them today to get an ETA on the parts. I did notice that the brake disc has a hint of bluing on the body which I'll attribute to heat - not sure about that though. I'll try to get a photo that shows the discoloration.The tires come from Wilkerson tomorrow. I have another set enroute from Desser, ETA Friday.

Did you fabricate a brake caliper shim? Some people mention an ~1/8 spacer between the cylinder and the back plate.

You are using the Matco pads vs. Rapco? Reason? I have both; the Matcos are noticeably thinner. Rapcos are currently installed and still have life. (I repack the bearings and reline the brakes at every annual / CI because its cheap and easy insurance, mainly because I'm a heavy brake user.)
 
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I did not use the Vitron o-rings because I could never find a specific spec for a correct Vitron o-ring. Lots of posters recommend them, but no PN#, brand or spec. The stock o-rings are about $1 per pair ( plus $8 for shipping). I put them back in and plan to change at every annual.

I use the Matco liners because ACS sent them when I tried to order replacement liners for the stock Clevelands. I did that early before I had started to dig into brake upgrades.

I looked up the Matco rebuild kit on ACS. They did not show a replacement shaft is there a different kit number for that?

I built the two shims from 1/8" aluminum stock, match drilled them to the back plate, rough cut on my band saw then used a belt sander to grind to shape. The top curve of the belt sander is the only way I could see to grind the inside curve that matches the disc curve.

The Cleveland parts list for the 199-93 upgrade shows that the only difference in the stock brakes I received from Vans and the upgrade are the thicker disc and the ~ 1/8" shim. The Cleveland kit is $674 from ACS, the Rapco discs are $200 plus scrap Aluminum and My time, I went for cheaper.
 
I did not use the Vitron o-rings because I could never find a specific spec for a correct Vitron o-ring. Lots of posters recommend them, but no PN#, brand or spec. The stock o-rings are about $1 per pair ( plus $8 for shipping). I put them back in and plan to change at every annual.

I use the Matco liners because ACS sent them when I tried to order replacement liners for the stock Clevelands. I did that early before I had started to dig into brake upgrades.

I looked up the Matco rebuild kit on ACS. They did not show a replacement shaft is there a different kit number for that?

I built the two shims from 1/8" aluminum stock, match drilled them to the back plate, rough cut on my band saw then used a belt sander to grind to shape. The top curve of the belt sander is the only way I could see to grind the inside curve that matches the disc curve.

The Cleveland parts list for the 199-93 upgrade shows that the only difference in the stock brakes I received from Vans and the upgrade are the thicker disc and the ~ 1/8" shim. The Cleveland kit is $674 from ACS, the Rapco discs are $200 plus scrap Aluminum and My time, I went for cheaper.

The replacement shaft came directly from Matco. I pulled this part number from the invoice: MCMC4F-1 - SHAFT; MC-4F. Not part of the rebuild kit - I remembered incorrectly; I purchased it separately.

http://www.matcomfg.com/SHAFTMC4F-idv-3079-46.html

The Viton O-rings came from O-Rings USA www.oringsusa.com . The part number (really a description) from the invoice: AS568 Viton® 75 Black

10 x -218 V75 (1-1/4 ID X 1-1/2 OD X 1/8 W) (1) = $4.10 The leading 10 is the quantity I ordered. So 218 V75 is the size, and $0.41 each. I got the info somewhere on this site back in 2014. The price went up 5 cents since then.

The brake discs are going to be drop shipped directly from Rapco - 10 to 14 days. Ugh.
 
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I have read the thread and am very interested in upgrading. It seems like you guys are just upgrading the disks (rapco), making the spacers so it fits properly and upgrading the o rings on the stock matco calipers. Am I missing something? Need to change the master cylinder or calipers? I see the Cleveland kit for $700. Are you getting that also, or just getting the disks separately and making your own shims?

Sorry if it?s need answered before, but I just couldn?t figure it out.
 
I have read the thread and am very interested in upgrading. It seems like you guys are just upgrading the disks (rapco), making the spacers so it fits properly and upgrading the o rings on the stock matco calipers. Am I missing something? Need to change the master cylinder or calipers? I see the Cleveland kit for $700. Are you getting that also, or just getting the disks separately and making your own shims?

Sorry if it’s need answered before, but I just couldn’t figure it out.

Hey climberrn, here's what I did:

Purchased the new thicker Rapco discs and installed them on the wheels.

Fabricated a 1/8" thick aluminum shim, same shape and hole pattern as the gold Matco caliper spacer, to put the calipers 1/8" further apart to accommodate the thicker discs. Bought new AN4 caliper bolts, 1 grip length longer, to account for the new spacing.

Bought (actually a kind forum member sent me his spares) two arbor shims to fit on the inside of the axle (one on each axle), along with the Vans spacer, to put the wheel 1/16" further outboard. This helps to keep the thicker disc from hitting the wheel pant mount bracket and keeps the centerline of the new disc in the same location as the centerline of the old disc, so your calipers are happy. Someone else recommended part number 5GA99 from Grainger. That looks like it'll work.

Then you'll have to shave either the outboard axle spacer or the axle nut by the same amount (1/16") to keep the wheel pant from getting stretched and possibly cracking. I chose to shave the inboard side of the wheel nut. With some careful attention, you can even get the cotter pin holes to line up where they were before and still have the right compression on the bearings.

Once this is all done, check that the inboard wheel pant bracket isn't rubbing on the new disc and that all is still rotating and working freely. On my plane this all fit OK, but inspect carefully because you're stuffing more junk into the same space and possibly changing geometry in an already tight area.

I didn't do anything to my O-rings.

Edit: I may have mis-remembered on the thicknesses. Since other posts seem to indicate the new disc is 1/4" thicker than the original stock, you'll need to shim the caliper by that amount and get new caliper bolts to take up that extra distance (2 grip lengths for 1/4"). Then the arbor shim would be half that (1/8") and the axle nut would be shaved the same amount (1/8"). Bottom line, measure the thickness of the new discs relative to the originals (when they were new) and shim for the difference. Be careful not to shim too much, or as the pads and disc wear you might push the piston out of the caliper or un-seat the piston o-ring before the pads contact the disc, losing all braking action.
 
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Here are the CORRECT parts to make this conversion.......

Aircraft Spruce.........need 2... 06-01311 Rapco Brake Disc RA164-09900
Aircraft Spruce........ need 1... 06-00651 Rapco RA66-106-4K brake line kit
Aircraft Spruce.........need 4... AN4H-16A AN Bolt
Granger...................need 2... Arbor shim,0.1250x1 1/4 ID. Granger sells a pack of 10 only 5GB11..... so shop around.

Why do you need an 1/8" arbor shim?? When you install your home made 1/8" spacer between the pad plate, it moves the entire brake cylinder 1/8" closer to the pant bracket. Test fit for scraping. If it does not scrape, you may not need the shim. The 1/8" arbor shim will move it back to it's original location. So if it didn't scrape before, it won't scrape after. But now you have pushed everything 1/8" out the axle. So you must remove 1/8" from the face of the nut to bring it back to it's original location.

ACE hardware..... (or any hardware store) Alum-flat 1/8" X 1" to make spacers to move pad plate out.

Local Hydraulics shop....need 2... Viton "O" rings for piston. Viton # 568-218. https://mykin.com/orings/as568-218-viton-75.html

Machine .125 from the face of the nut to make up for the shim and allow the cotter pin to line up with existing hole in the axle.
 
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Thanks to all who have added their knowledge to this thread. I started it to help others avoid the hours of searching required to complete this upgrade.

I have been happy with the conversion. After much thought during and after the conversion, I came to the conclusion that I was dragging the brakes during taxing and take off. I started to go through a little dance at the start of take off, to align on the centerline and then move my feet to the outside lower corner of both rudder peddles. Even with this technique I would occasionally notice the RV9A would lurch on liftoff.

My final modification was to add the Anti Splat Aero Rudder Pedal Extensions. Now I can feed right rudder without adding right brake also. The ball of my feet is above the lower cross bar of the rudder peddles and allowed unintentional brake application.

I recommend you consider this peddle extension mod. It finally solved my problem.
 
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