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Show us your panel!

Thanks

Just wired up and finished the SL-40 install along with the GTX-327....everything works as it should. Really like the HSI function on the D-180 with the G496.
 
Fired up the panel today...

This is Bob Lund's RV-8 that I'm helping wire. Panel was done by Aerotronics. So we got it installed today and got the battery connected so we were able to turn the master on, avionics master, activated the start relay and got the starter-engaged light to come on. One wire at a time, lots more to do!





The G3X Touch is nice! I see an upgrade in my future.:)
 
This is Bob Lund's RV-8 that I'm helping wire. Panel was done by Aerotronics. So we got it installed today and got the battery connected so we were able to turn the master on, avionics master, activated the start relay and got the starter-engaged light to come on. One wire at a time, lots more to do!

Hey Pat, I'm curious why you elected to install a starter engaged lamp on the panel? I have never seen this before except in turbine aircraft as there is a delay between starter engagement before the propeller begins to spin. Any particular reason for a piston airplane?
 
Pat, yes, it's just to make sure the relay disengages. Stuck relays are not good in this situation. :)
 
Pat, yes, it's just to make sure the relay disengages. Stuck relays are not good in this situation. :)

True but in 12 years of working on airplanes everyday, I have never seen that happen. It's a good idea though! That is why I love Experimental aviation! See an idea and put it to use.
 
Agreed, but it can happen. The way I look at it is you have the information sitting right out there on the "I" terminal of the relay, why not use it? Just one wire. But I'm with you, it's great that we have the freedom to make the choice, gotta love it!
 
Starter Engaged

I've seen this happen 3 times where the starter solenoid failed closed. Once was after a start and was obvious due to noise and pegged out ammeter. The others were before start. Anytime the battery master was on the prop was turning. Always a good idea to clear the prop arc of people, objects, tow bars ect before turning on the master. My plane will have a starter engaged light installed.


Don B

RV 9 Rebuild in Progress
 
Our latest RV8 panel upgrade..

Before...

IMG_5250.jpg


IMG_5246a.jpg


After...

IMG_7350-600.jpg


IMG_7347a.jpg


G3X, dual ADAHRS, GMC305, Auto Pilot, GTN650, GTR200, GMA240, AOA, Heated Pitot, GRT Mini X.
Complete electrical system re-wire including new switches and breakers and B&C back up alternator.
Equipment and Panel CNC from Stein.
 
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your labels---

Brother P-Touch? I'm almost ready to go this route, as Stein's printer that does white on clear decals is in-op with a now indefinite replacement time, and my local print shop can't do white ink.

I have a few more phone calls to make including an avionics shop at Twin Lakes to see if maybe silkscreening is within my budget, but I'm thinking a little lowering of expectations and a trip to Office Max might put me out of my misery and back on the road to a finished panel upgrade.

Your labels look like something I could go for, Walt. I see a little background carrier visible but not too bad. What are they? Did you clear-coat?

-Stormy
 
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Brother P-Touch? I'm almost ready to go this route, as Stein's printer that does white on clear decals is T.U. with a now indefinite replacement time, and my local print shop can't do white ink.

I have a few more phone calls to make including an avionics shop at Twin Lakes to see if maybe silkscreening is within my budget, but I'm thinking a little lowering of expectations and a trip to Office Max might put me out of my misery and back on the road to a finished panel upgrade.

Your labels look like something I could go for, Walt. I see a little background carrier visible but not too bad. What are they? Did you clear-coat?

-Stormy

Yep brother P-Touch with TZe tape, no clear coat. As a practical matter I have found these labels to be legible, good looking, durable, easy to install and easy to make changes.
Are they as nice as some other methods.... no, but I'm a very practical guy and these work good, look good, they're cheap and easy to install, so what's not to like.
Of course for me it depends on what the customer wants, if he's ok with it this is my preference but I'll do it anyway he wants (I have no problem spending someone elses money!).

http://imagesupply.com/collections/shop-by-brand/products/brother-pt-d400vp-label-maker
 
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+1 for the P-Touch. Many different label colors available too. The graphics software that comes with it is the key to custom labels. Here is silver material against my matt gray/silver cabin color;

I've adopted the theory that instead of printing on clear and hoping that it isn't recognized as a label I would print a "Placard" and flaunt it being a label:D
 
Nice!!

Our latest RV8 panel upgrade..
G3X, dual ADAHRS, GMC305, Auto Pilot, GTN650, GTR200, GMA240, AOA, Heated Pitot, GRT Mini X.
Complete electrical system re-wire including new switches and breakers and B&C back up alternator.
Panel CNC by Stein.

Walt....great job on the panel! (and spending somebody elses money too:D)
 
+1 for the P-Touch. Many different label colors available too. The graphics software that comes with it is the key to custom labels. Here is silver material against my matt gray/silver cabin color;

I've adopted the theory that instead of printing on clear and hoping that it isn't recognized as a label I would print a "Placard" and flaunt it being a label:D

Hey that's a good idea, I might try some of that!
 
label color options

I'm all set to "Amazon" a P-touch that's Mac-capable and all that stuff. Wondering how White on Black would look on my satin black panel vs White on Clear. Anyone tried that?

-Stormy
 
Panel cut

Not as impressive as the finished panels in this thread. Give me time......
 
Round holes

Hole saw in drill press. Had to dress the hole up by a couple of thousands with 80 grit then scotchbrite wheel. I was surprised at how clean it came out.

I read a thread about drilling the pilot hole then replacing the pilot drill with smooth rod so the hole doesn't drift. Didn't do that but cut the panel over a piece of 1" plywood. That helped hold the pilot drill in place.

If only the rectangular holes came out as well....
 
...if only the rectangular holes came out as well.

That's why the radios and instruments have flanges around the edge, to make us look good.
 
starter light

Only happened once in 4 decades of starts, but was really frustrating.
Had to get out and remove a cowl... to disconnect the relay. It had welded itself closed. I only noticed it because the engine failed to fire the first time... and still cranked away with the key off. Starter was quite hot by the time I got the power disconnected. The engaged light is simple and good information to have.
 
Mark, has the VP-X, representing years of engineering effort, been relegated to an "etc, etc." in the equipment list? :) :eek:
 
Mark, has the VP-X, representing years of engineering effort, been relegated to an "etc, etc." in the equipment list? :) :eek:

Oh yeah...forgot about all the "stuff" behind the panel! Yep, VPX Pro back there along with about every box Dynon sells and a Byonics MicroTrak APRS transmitter.
 
How are you handling Audio switching with 2 COM Radios and a NAV radio with no audio panel?



Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
 
so clean and unencumbered...

I really like the clean look without those big clunky rudder pedals in the way! I think I will look into that ?mod?? I probably won?t need them on my tail dragger, huh? :D

But seriously, Nice clean panel layout! I like it!
 
Has anyone installed a radio stack on the left, 10" Skyview in the center and a 7" Skyview on the right side of an -8 panel? I'm wondering if there is enough room?
 
Oh yeah...forgot about all the "stuff" behind the panel! Yep, VPX Pro back there along with about every box Dynon sells and a Byonics MicroTrak APRS transmitter.

Mark, do you have any photos of your device layout behind the panel? Curious how you mounted things like the VPX etc.
 
How many smackaroonies

OK, I gotta ask-----------I'd love to change my VFR panel to an IFR panel. But I don't know if I can afford it or not. Lots of these panels I'm seeing on other guys airplanes are $35000 or more. I've got an 8. If I upgraded, not to one of these super duper $35000 + panels, but not a chincy one either, just something decent-----what kind of bucks might I be looking at? I'd need IFR primary, IFR redundancy, and an auto pilot at least. And I didn't build the airplane either ie, I'd have to have the panel cut and all the wiring done for me. Personally, I'm very IFR qualified, but my plane is not.
 
100 hours

I have about 100 hours on the new panel but haven't taken the time to get the new EFIS frames powder coated yet.

Garmin GDU 460, GDU 450, GTN-650, SL-30, GTX-330ES. Dual AHRS, Engine monitor, Auto pilot, GDL-39. Trutrak Gemini PFD for backup. The Garmin and the TT both have independent backup batteries.

P1040572_zpsoihoqefq.jpg



Andy
 
OK, I gotta ask-----------I'd love to change my VFR panel to an IFR panel. But I don't know if I can afford it or not. Lots of these panels I'm seeing on other guys airplanes are $35000 or more. I've got an 8. If I upgraded, not to one of these super duper $35000 + panels, but not a chincy one either, just something decent-----what kind of bucks might I be looking at? I'd need IFR primary, IFR redundancy, and an auto pilot at least. And I didn't build the airplane either ie, I'd have to have the panel cut and all the wiring done for me. Personally, I'm very IFR qualified, but my plane is not.

Don - there are lots of ways to approach this question, but without knowing what you've currently got installed it's hard to take a guess at final cost.

Assuming you've got a steam gauge six pack, I would recommend, right out of the gate, that you consider going with an EFIS as your starting point. Why? Because an EFIS can economically replace a lot of expensive IFR NAV indicators. Keep some of your 6-pack instruments as backups to the glass. Put your primary navigation radio in the pilot's primary field of view so its on-screen display (if so equipped) can be used as the backup navigation indicator.

Just as a rough indicator, we upgraded our panel from a solid VFR panel to a reasonably equipped IFR panel. Total cost is around $15K. This includes a gently-used Garmin GPS WAAS navigator, a current-production GRT EFIS and the very capable TruTrak autopilot.

I chose to go with another EFIS as our backup, allowing us to punt all the steam gauges, but with a cost of another $1500 or so. I also chose to install ADS-B-OUT capability via a Mode S/ES transponder - this was a zero-dollar trade from our pre-existing transponder - your mileage will vary on this one, depending on which transponder you currently have. The last upgrade will be installation of a 978 UAT ADS-B-IN receiver which will talk to both the EFIS and an android-based tablet in the cockpit. For all these extra bells and whistles we will have spent an extra $2-3K.

Total, all in, we'll be well under $20K invested in upgrading from steam to glass, going full IFR and achieving full ADS-B compliance.

You can do it for a lot less if you want to stick with legacy VOR/ILS radios and steam gauges, but you'll sacrifice the approaches that a good GPS navigator makes available to you. By sticking with steam gauges you're sacrificing the outstanding situational awareness that comes with a glass cockpit and you'll not get the greatly enhanced reliability of glass versus that old vacuum pump that you just know is going to go "Tango Uniform" when you're in the soup. I ran this calculation six ways from Sunday and just could not beat the value proposition of installing an all-glass cockpit and feeding it with a GPS WAAS navigator.
 
Don - there are lots of ways to approach this question, but without knowing what you've currently got installed it's hard to take a guess at final cost.

Assuming you've got a steam gauge six pack, I would recommend, right out of the gate, that you consider going with an EFIS as your starting point. Why? Because an EFIS can economically replace a lot of expensive IFR NAV indicators. Keep some of your 6-pack instruments as backups to the glass. Put your primary navigation radio in the pilot's primary field of view so its on-screen display (if so equipped) can be used as the backup navigation indicator.

Just as a rough indicator, we upgraded our panel from a solid VFR panel to a reasonably equipped IFR panel. Total cost is around $15K. This includes a gently-used Garmin GPS WAAS navigator, a current-production GRT EFIS and the very capable TruTrak autopilot.

I chose to go with another EFIS as our backup, allowing us to punt all the steam gauges, but with a cost of another $1500 or so. I also chose to install ADS-B-OUT capability via a Mode S/ES transponder - this was a zero-dollar trade from our pre-existing transponder - your mileage will vary on this one, depending on which transponder you currently have. The last upgrade will be installation of a 978 UAT ADS-B-IN receiver which will talk to both the EFIS and an android-based tablet in the cockpit. For all these extra bells and whistles we will have spent an extra $2-3K.

Total, all in, we'll be well under $20K invested in upgrading from steam to glass, going full IFR and achieving full ADS-B compliance.

You can do it for a lot less if you want to stick with legacy VOR/ILS radios and steam gauges, but you'll sacrifice the approaches that a good GPS navigator makes available to you. By sticking with steam gauges you're sacrificing the outstanding situational awareness that comes with a glass cockpit and you'll not get the greatly enhanced reliability of glass versus that old vacuum pump that you just know is going to go "Tango Uniform" when you're in the soup. I ran this calculation six ways from Sunday and just could not beat the value proposition of installing an all-glass cockpit and feeding it with a GPS WAAS navigator.

Just the kind of info I'm looking for--Thanks Canadian Joy. My VFR pack is a Garmin stack of radios & transponder, a Dynon 180, Garmin 496, and mini ipad with Garmin Pilot on it. Other guys and gals reading this, please chime in. Like to learn as much as I can.:eek:
 
VFR Centrally located EFIS in an RV 7

A little off topic but I am presently building an RV 7 and when i took my night VFR recently I found that the airspeed and turn coordinator were big in navigating the plane out of the clouds or just keeping level

So

My panel has the Airspeed and turn coordinator(steam gauges) located in front of the panel and my Skyview EFIS in the CENTER of the panel.

Any comments on pro or con on this would be greaty appreciated. Perhaps i should have started a new thread?
 
Here is my first fire-up of the G3X panel in my RV-8A. I had two immediate issues: one was a network error caused by connecting the shield ground of each device on the Canbus to its backshell, and the other was forgetting install the jumper defining which GDU was the PFD (it's the right one.) Had to call Garmin to get the resolution on the first error, I figured out the second. The Garmin guy seemed to know right away what the problem was - you only connect the shield grounds to the connector backshells at the beginning and end of the physical bus. Otherwise, you just connect the shield grounds together along the chain. The photo shows the screens before the fixes were applied.

2ryrozb.jpg
 
Any chance you'd have a photo with a little more light in the panel itself? Looks cool and would be interested in seeing it all! Also, what's behind the panel and in the plane equipment-wise like for radios etc? Any photos from behind the panel on how you fit it all in?

Thanks!

Here is my first fire-up of the G3X panel in my RV-8A. I had two immediate issues: one was a network error caused by connecting the shield ground of each device on the Canbus to its backshell, and the other was forgetting install the jumper defining which GDU was the PFD (it's the right one.) Had to call Garmin to get the resolution on the first error, I figured out the second. The Garmin guy seemed to know right away what the problem was - you only connect the shield grounds to the connector backshells at the beginning and end of the physical bus. Otherwise, you just connect the shield grounds together along the chain. The photo shows the screens before the fixes were applied.
 
Any chance you'd have a photo with a little more light in the panel itself? Looks cool and would be interested in seeing it all! Also, what's behind the panel and in the plane equipment-wise like for radios etc? Any photos from behind the panel on how you fit it all in?

Thanks!

I do have others. This particular photo shot with an iPhone had to deal with the bright sky outside the hanger, and the dark panel. Not my best shot (I taking these for documentation....) Give me a sec and I'll post a few more.

VFR Equipment list:

Garmin GDU 460 Touch (2) no XM
Garmin GMU 22 Magnetometer (mounted in left wingtip)
Garmin GSU 25 ADAHRS (mounted under copilots left footrest underfloor)
Garmin GMC 305 autopilot controller
Garmin GSA 28 servos (2) pitch and roll (modified existing Dynon pitch mount, new Garmin roll mount)
Garmin GI 260 AOA indicator (glareshield center)
Garmin GAP 26 heated pitot (left wing next to outboard inspection plate)
Garmin GTR 20 remote comm (mounted behind panel, on top of avionics shelf (not pictured))
Garmin GTX 23ES remote transponder (mounted behind panel under shelf)
Garmin GEA 24 EIS (mounted on front baggage bulkhead above the shelf)
Garmin GDL 39R remote ADS-B UAT receiver (mounted on front baggage bulkhead below shelf)
Vertical Power VP-X Pro (mounted on avionics shelf)
CO Guardian 353P-201 remote CO monitor (mounted on throttle quadrant shelf under panel)
Infinity Aerospace grip (flaps, trim, Ident, Swap, CWS/Disc)
 
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This is the panel after the Canbus was fixed, and the jumper set for the right PFD. Tilted down to reduce contrast from the outside daylight.

3hb0p.jpg


The plane is in my hanger, which you can see (red question mark) in the Safe Taxi diagram on the MFD. The GPS signal was intermittant, but better than the old Garmin GPS/comm it replaced using the same antenna.
 
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And one with the jumble of wires disconnected and no panels. You can see the VP-X Pro, but the com radio is not installed. There is plenty of room behind the panel.

153qyds.jpg
 
Wow looks great! Do you also have a Picture of the ADAHRS Position and the Magnetometer in the wingtip? Would be great !
 
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Here is my first fire-up of the G3X panel in my RV-8A. I had two immediate issues: one was a network error caused by connecting the shield ground of each device on the Canbus to its backshell, and the other was forgetting install the jumper defining which GDU was the PFD (it's the right one.) Had to call Garmin to get the resolution on the first error, I figured out the second. The Garmin guy seemed to know right away what the problem was - you only connect the shield grounds to the connector backshells at the beginning and end of the physical bus. Otherwise, you just connect the shield grounds together along the chain. The photo shows the screens before the fixes were applied.

2ryrozb.jpg

Hello Charley,

That is a really great looking dual display G3X Touch installation in your RV-8A! You are going to really enjoy flying with this system and using this autopilot.

While it is true that we generally recommend only connecting the CAN bus shield to the connector back shells at just the extreme ends of the CAN bus, we have no evidence whatsoever that connecting the shield at each CAN device back shell will not work just as well. We have done it both ways, and both work fine.

We apologize that you were given information to the contrary. Perhaps there was another wiring change made along the way that explains the resolution of this issue.

Just having two displays on the CAN bus wanting to be MFD1 (before you jumpered a display to be PFD1) would make things pretty unhappy and may have been the only problem.

Thanks,
Steve
 
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Hello Charley,

That is a really great looking dual display G3X Touch installation in your RV-8A! You are going to really enjoy flying with this system and using this autopilot.

While it is true that we generally recommend only connecting the CAN bus shield to the connector back shells at just the extreme ends of the CAN bus, we have no evidence whatsoever that connecting the shield at each CAN device back shell will not work just as well. We have done it both ways, and both work fine.

We apologize that you were given information to the contrary. Perhaps there was another wiring change made along the way that explains the resolution of this issue.

Just having two displays on the CAN bus wanting to be MFD1 (before you jumpered a display to be PFD1) would make things pretty unhappy and may have been the only problem.

Thanks,
Steve

Yea, I was thinking that. I assumed that it was a combination of issues that was causing the network error. The first thing I did was disconnect the shield grounds on the intermediate devices on the Canbus. That did not correct the issue entirely - the "PFD" still reported the network error (I *think* in was cleared on the MFD.) It also was complaining about not having a GPS attached (which I later changed in the configuration process.) I built the harness over the winter, so I decided to go back over the connector pins - that's when I discovered the omission of the jumper grounding pin 10. After making that connection, every was working.

Since I temporarily removed the shield grounds, should I reconnect them to see what happens?

After reviewing revision T - and noticing that my backup serial line from the GSU 25 would not configure - I think I made another mistake by connecting it to a regular RS232 line rather than to connector P4601...
 
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Yea, I was thinking that. I assumed that it was a combination of issues that was causing the network error. The first thing I did was disconnect the shield grounds on the intermediate devices on the Canbus. That did not correct the issue entirely - the "PFD" still reported the network error (I *think* in was cleared on the MFD.) It also was complaining about not having a GPS attached (which I later changed in the configuration process.) I built the harness over the winter, so I decided to go back over the connector pins - that's when I discovered the omission of the jumper grounding pin 10. After making that connection, every was working.

Since I temporarily removed the shield grounds, should I reconnect them to see what happens?

After reviewing revision T - and noticing that my backup serial line from the GSU 25 would not configure - I think I made another mistake by connecting it to a regular RS232 line rather than to connector P4601...

Hello Charley,

It is not necessary to re-connect the shield grounds to device back shells between the two ends of the CAN bus, but you may if you wish.

Thanks for noticing that we improved the guidance for wiring the backup data path to the GSU25 ADAHRS in the Rev. T G3X Installation Manual.

As shown on page 20-10, you may wire this data path to the 6th RS-232 serial port on a GDU 45X/46X display on connector 4501/4601 and leave all 5 of the other serial ports for other devices. You may also continue to use any of the first 5 serial ports for this purpose, and the guidance on page 21-5 explains that you just need to configure that RS-232 serial port for "Garmin Instrument Data".

You do not need to move your GSU25 backup data path connection to the 6th serial port unless you want to. This 6th port is always configured for "Garmin Instrument Data", so anyone using this port for the GSU25 backup data path never have to do anything but connect the wires. Your 2 display system has 12 independent serial ports, so you are in no risk of running short!

Let us know if you have any additional questions.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Has anyone installed a radio stack on the left, 10" Skyview in the center and a 7" Skyview on the right side of an -8 panel? I'm wondering if there is enough room?

Hey Brant
Here is my AFS4500 on center with A210 and GTX327 on left. Barely enough space to put lock nuts on the rack mounting and still get inside the panel header in the cabin. The Skyview is about 2" wider so unlikely you could keep Skyview centered.

Off subject- my company was a sponsor at RIU airshow in '13. You still flying Sparky?
 
Panel progress

Seems quiet in the -8 forum. Everyone must be planning to build a -14. Panel is beginning to resemble something useable.
 
RV-8 Panel Upgrade

How can you improve an RV-8 that just won a Bronze Lindy at Oshkosh this year?

Why you can upgrade the panel from VFR to IFR with a new Avidyne IFD-440. We sent a new powder coated and labeled panel center section, IFD-440 and PS Engineering PAC-15 remote audio panel to Synergy Air in Eugene Oregon.
Since this plane was built with our plug and play Advanced Control Module the panel "rewire" was as simple as plugging in the new GPS Navigator and Audio panel harnesses into the ACM.

23576813912_84dbab2442_b.jpg


Original Advanced VFR Quick Panel:
16422684737_7aa93e47c7_b.jpg


19837090652_dfa5e2efdc_b.jpg



Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems Inc,
N402RH RV-10
 
Label source?

Thanks, Andy. I think the most challenging part was the blasted labels!

So, could you please share your source for your labels? They look very professional, and will, no doubt, instill great confidence in their pilot, from your passengers. ;)
 
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