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Drilling Canopy

salto

Well Known Member
RV-14 plans say to pilot drill canopy with #40 and then a #27.
Reading /watching tips on google and YouTube there is a lot of advice not to drill a pilot hole.
I've ordered the acrylic drill bits, what was being said about rake and angle all made sense it's just the pilot hole issue that I'm procrastinating over.
Thanks
 
If you don't use SikaFlex, the pilot hole is not an issue with the Avery style acrylic bits. The reason for the pilot is valid. If you want to drill through with no hole to match then use the acrylic bit to mark the hole, then no pilot may be needed. But if you try to hit an existing hole, the pilot bit allows some working room. I found that it was a little challenging to get the drill point perfect aligned with an existing hole. Like shooting fish in water - the plexi affects the visual aiming. Looking straight at the hole, and bringing the bit point to match on the surface, then standing up the drill square with the surface gave me the best results, but techniques may vary. Happy Building.

I should add, dipping the bit in water before drilling (slow rpm) each hole adds some cooling and a little lubrication. I completed another project with lots of plexi drilling and the produced cleanest holes. Relieve the down force as the tip penetrates the far side.

For the total DIYer -

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drill bits

Dont waste your money on drill bits for plexiglass. Instead just chuck a regular bit up and drill some concrete with it for about 10 seconds. It will dull the bit and i promise you wont crack your canopy. As far as using the #40 pilot first. It is dangerous because when u drill the hole up to size, the bit will try to pull itself through to quickly and blow out the back. If you use the pilot make sure you spin up your drill before u put any pressure on the glass. You want the bit to somewhat melt its way thru. High speed low pressure is key. Try drilling a few holes in the tiny amount of cut off from the canopy.
 
As far as using the #40 pilot first. It is dangerous because when u drill the hole up to size, the bit will try to pull itself through to quickly and blow out the back.

That's why it is a good idea to use plexy drill bits (instead of a regular one run into concrete), They cut with zero rake, and wont pull themselves through.
 
OK thanks for all the tips. Light diffraction and not to much pressure exiting the hole with zero rake on drill bit seem to be the important points.
Thanks again. 👍
 
Where do you buy these acrylic/plexy drill bits? Cleaveland/Brown/Aircraft Spruce only seem to have them in fractional sizes down to 1/8 - and from the instructions we need #40, #36 and #27
 
I just bought a new set of standard bits and cut down the tips to remove the shoulders like in Bill's post. Took about a minute with the Scotchbrite wheel for all of them and they make nice clean holes in the plastic and no grabbing.
 
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