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Another VR failure

olderthandirt

Well Known Member
Sorry I know this has been beaten to death, but today my Ducati VR is probably on last leg..I have 26.4 total hours on plane and VR is under panel....today it was showing at idle -.1 and -.2 and in air +2 and battery discharged to 12.6 after hour of flight..it started out 13.7 because I have a battery maintainer on it...if everyone agrees it is going out I have a JD VR which I can install with a modified plate...just asking
 
Sorry I know this has been beaten to death, but today my Ducati VR is probably on last leg..I have 26.4 total hours on plane and VR is under panel....today it was showing at idle -.1 and -.2 and in air +2 and battery discharged to 12.6 after hour of flight..it started out 13.7 because I have a battery maintainer on it...if everyone agrees it is going out I have a JD VR which I can install with a modified plate...just asking

If it turns out bad....make sure you send into Van's a failure report. 26.4 hours is ridiculous. From a class I attended last weekend; it seems only to be "epidemic" in RV-12s.
 
I have to agree Ric, I have over 1100 hrs on my Rans S-7S with original regulator. I have about 170 hrs on my RV-12 and mine is going TU. Only getting anywhere btw 12.8 and 13.7 volts the last few flight.

I'm very involved with the Rans community and with many hundreds flying I don't hear of many VR failures. Something about the RV-12.....

Bill
 
Sorry I know this has been beaten to death, but today my Ducati VR is probably on last leg..I have 26.4 total hours on plane and VR is under panel....today it was showing at idle -.1 and -.2 and in air +2 and battery discharged to 12.6 after hour of flight..it started out 13.7 because I have a battery maintainer on it...if everyone agrees it is going out I have a JD VR which I can install with a modified plate...just asking

Not sure what battery the RV-12 uses but Odyssey says in their manual the battery is good if it shows 12.65v or better open circuit (no load).
 
Voltage Regulator Issues

I do believe it is time to get to the bottom of our RV-12 voltage regulator problem. I've read all sort of reasons...heat, vibration and installation errors being the cause.

Scott just recently stated installation error being the most likely cause of our problem. I really have a rough time swallowing this.... Not fully inserting pins or plug. Just maybe the plug being supplied doesn't allow for complete seating on the voltage regulator.

Why is this a RV-12 issue? Other Rotax (other a/c) don't seem to be experiencing the level of failures.

Just saying, maybe it is time for some "factory" help; as failures have occurred with the regulator moved away from heat. AND Scott is probably onto the cause...being electrical connections (just don't believe it is installation error)!!!
 
AND Scott is probably onto the cause...being electrical connections (just don't believe it is installation error)!!!

What I actually said was "A lot of failures have occurred as a result of installation error (plugs not fully seated in the regulator, or wires not fully seated and locked into the plug)."

I didn't say it was the primary cause (I have no way of knowing what the actual percentage of the total failures is).

A lot of failures have occurred with melted connectors and/or input pins in instances where the pins weren't fully seated.
My primary point being that there is not one single cause for the failures, and that at least some are like installer induced.
 
What I actually said was "A lot of failures have occurred as a result of installation error (plugs not fully seated in the regulator, or wires not fully seated and locked into the plug)."

I didn't say it was the primary cause (I have no way of knowing what the actual percentage of the total failures is).

A lot of failures have occurred with melted connectors and/or input pins in instances where the pins weren't fully seated.
My primary point being that there is not one single cause for the failures, and that at least some are like installer induced.

Scott, I'm not climbing onto you or Van's(couldn't be happier with the support given)....just saying, there has to be more to this then "faulty installation errors". My reading into this points to poor pin/lug engagement....as the "heat problem" has been addressed.
 
What I actually said was "A lot of failures have occurred as a result of installation error (plugs not fully seated in the regulator, or wires not fully seated and locked into the plug)."

A lot of failures have occurred with melted connectors and/or input pins in instances where the pins weren't fully seated.

I would think that given the above, there may be a problem with the plugs or the instructions to assemble the wiring/plugs to the VR. More than two similar failures indicate to me that something needs to be improved. That's my take anyway.

-Marc
 
Not sure what battery the RV-12 uses but Odyssey says in their manual the battery is good if it shows 12.65v or better open circuit (no load).

I think that what you're reading is that a lead-acid battery is at full charge at 12.65 volts.

But if the engine is running and you see only 12.65 volts, that means the alternator isn't charging the battery, since it takes at least 1.5V above battery voltage to push a charge into the battery.

Charlie
 
I think that what you're reading is that a lead-acid battery is at full charge at 12.65 volts.

But if the engine is running and you see only 12.65 volts, that means the alternator isn't charging the battery, since it takes at least 1.5V above battery voltage to push a charge into the battery.

Charlie

For the optimum charging of our batteries voltage should be 14.3...I think our regulator puts out around 14.1 volts.(which is fine) when everything is running right.
 
Scott, I'm not climbing onto you or Van's(couldn't be happier with the support given)....just saying, there has to be more to this then "faulty installation errors". My reading into this points to poor pin/lug engagement....as the "heat problem" has been addressed.

I guess I will bow out of this thread now because you seem to be reading other things into what I am say, beyond what I am.
All I was doing was correcting where you incorrectly quoted me......
I have never come even close to saying that the majority of the failures are faulty installation errors. In fact I have said that I have no information available to me to be able to say what percentage of them have been.
What I have said is that quite a few of them have been. Nothing more... nothing less.

As for better instructions??? In some ways that implies that with detailed enough instructions a person could do brain surgery.
A bit sarcastic I realize but it makes my point.... that you cant write instructions that will be sufficient for 100 % of the people that decide to build an RV-12. there will always be some people that have a mechanical aptitude / back ground experience that will make them good candidates for getting some outside help with certain things (electrical for example).

Over, and out.
 
I tend to agree with Scott. The locking jaws on my regulator don't hold the plug all the way in. I ended up making provisions to safety wire mine so they would be fully inserted.
 
I tend to agree with Scott. The locking jaws on my regulator don't hold the plug all the way in. I ended up making provisions to safety wire mine so they would be fully inserted.

Wouldn't a non-conductive safety method be more appropriate at a connector?
 
I tend to agree with Scott. The locking jaws on my regulator don't hold the plug all the way in. I ended up making provisions to safety wire mine so they would be fully inserted.

2johns,

Exactly my point....this issue has everyone (or a least thoughs who have had problems) scratching their heads. What the heck "is" the problem....and running off and installing JD or SH vr's.

When the problem "could be" as simple as throwing away the plug and installing wiring terminal ends that fully lock onto the spades of the vr. Don't know for sure, but it is sure looking more like this is a big contributor.....along with proper grounding.

Edit: My ownly reason of asking Scott to engage was not to throw rocks, but to maybe bring the "factory" into this issue because it is a concern to most of us (especially when departing on xcountry flights). And not everyone has the ability to work out a solution.
 
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Dual glass panels draw more electrical current which makes the regulator run hotter. Mounting the regulator with heat-conductive grease helps to conduct the heat away. I suggest that Van's add that hint to the plans.
As part of the annual inspection, I suggest that each female terminal of the regulator plug be tested by inserting a male spade connector. If the spade slides in easily, then the female terminal is not gripping tight enough. A loose connector generates heat which speeds up corrosion which generates more heat which, over time, leads to failure.
Some RV-12 owners have discarded the regulator plastic housing and connect each terminal individually.
 
Dual glass panels draw more electrical current which makes the regulator run hotter. Mounting the regulator with heat-conductive grease helps to conduct the heat away. I suggest that Van's add that hint to the plans.
As part of the annual inspection, I suggest that each female terminal of the regulator plug be tested by inserting a male spade connector. If the spade slides in easily, then the female terminal is not gripping tight enough. A loose connector generates heat which speeds up corrosion which generates more heat which, over time, leads to failure.
Some RV-12 owners have discarded the regulator plastic housing and connect each terminal individually.

This will be inserted into my 100hr/annual check list...thanks Joe. Also, change out to individual connectors.
 
Connectors v/s VR failure

I have single connectors and have squeezed them as tight as can be and still get them on spades...it is not the connector problem..it is the Ducati Regulator...and construction quality control....when will everyone admit to this and either change VR or hold Ducati to warranty ...I can tell you dealing with Rotax on warranty is a joke...ask Ben Barron...Dick
 
I have no dog in this fight, but . . .

I have single connectors and have squeezed them as tight as can be and still get them on spades...it is not the connector problem..it is the Ducati Regulator...and construction quality control....when will everyone admit to this and either change VR or hold Ducati to warranty ...I can tell you dealing with Rotax on warranty is a joke...ask Ben Barron...Dick

It is not just the RV12 - a little searching turned up this: From an electrical engineer of 34 years of product development

"In our over 1000 hours in our CRUZ LSA, we have replaced our Rotax Specified Ducati AC to DC Rectifier/Regulator (R/R) box four times."

So - it is not just the RV12 - Vans is your agent to beat on Rotax, Vans can not fix this issue. Gather a group, talk to The Man, get some action.
 
I think that what you're reading is that a lead-acid battery is at full charge at 12.65 volts.

But if the engine is running and you see only 12.65 volts, that means the alternator isn't charging the battery, since it takes at least 1.5V above battery voltage to push a charge into the battery.

Charlie


I may be misreading the OP's statement; I took it to be saying that the battery was at 12.65 after flight (without the engine not turning). If that's the case then it doesn't appear the battery is actually discharging. If he means its reading 12.65 with the alternator operating then yes, something's broken.
 
I may be misreading the OP's statement; I took it to be saying that the battery was at 12.65 after flight (without the engine not turning). If that's the case then it doesn't appear the battery is actually discharging. If he means its reading 12.65 with the alternator operating then yes, something's broken.

If the battery is fully charged then wouldn't the voltage regulator reduce the voltage if its not required across the bus?
Joe?
 
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The voltage regulator tries to maintain a constant voltage regardless of the battery state of charge. It seems that the Ducati is set for about 13.8 volts, at least on my plane. Since the Rotax starts so quickly, the battery does not get discharged very much and 13.8 volts is adequate, barely. The John Deere regulator that I installed maintains about 14.1 volts. Many car regulators are set at 14.2 volts. Anywhere between 14 and 14.5 is OK. At engine RPM below about 3000, the dynamo is unable to maintain that high of a voltage with a full electrical load. If system voltage drops below battery voltage, then current will be drawn from the battery. Electrical loads will always draw current from the source with the highest voltage, either battery or charging system.
 
The voltage regulator tries to maintain a constant voltage regardless of the battery state of charge. It seems that the Ducati is set for about 13.8 volts, at least on my plane. Since the Rotax starts so quickly, the battery does not get discharged very much and 13.8 volts is adequate, barely. The John Deere regulator that I installed maintains about 14.1 volts. Many car regulators are set at 14.2 volts. Anywhere between 14 and 14.5 is OK. At engine RPM below about 3000, the dynamo is unable to maintain that high of a voltage with a full electrical load. If system voltage drops below battery voltage, then current will be drawn from the battery. Electrical loads will always draw current from the source with the highest voltage, either battery or charging system.

Next question, is it possible that the voltage seen on the skyview could have an error of +- .4?
Joe?
 
Next question, is it possible that the voltage seen on the skyview could have an error of +- .4?
Joe?

Can't comment on the Skyview specifically but on my plane I have volts measured by two different instruments, and its common for them to disagree by a couple of tenths. An error of 0.4v sounds seems less likely though.
 
The accuracy is a question for Dynon. I do not know. There is a big difference between resolution and accuracy. Digital displays might have a resolution of 0.1 or even 0.01, but their accuracy might only be plus or minus 1. Fuel level and fuel pressure are examples. They both have analog sensors but display high resolution digital numbers that are far from accurate.
 
It is not just the RV12 - a little searching turned up this: From an electrical engineer of 34 years of product development

"In our over 1000 hours in our CRUZ LSA, we have replaced our Rotax Specified Ducati AC to DC Rectifier/Regulator (R/R) box four times."

So - it is not just the RV12 - Vans is your agent to beat on Rotax, Vans can not fix this issue. Gather a group, talk to The Man, get some action.

Bill,

Very interesting article....looks like changing the capitor could have more to do with this problem; also, the SH vr (if considering a li-fe battery)!!
 
Sorry I know this has been beaten to death, but today my Ducati VR is probably on last leg..I have 26.4 total hours on plane and VR is under panel....today it was showing at idle -.1 and -.2 and in air +2 and battery discharged to 12.6 after hour of flight..it started out 13.7 because I have a battery maintainer on it...if everyone agrees it is going out I have a JD VR which I can install with a modified plate...just asking

After reading through this thread and considering my own experience with my RV12 and without further data this regulator seems to be operating normally! Here is my rational.

Normal battery voltage is 12.6 volts. He had it on a maintainer which would show a higher voltage which may go down over a few days without the maintainer.

We are only talking about a few tens of a volt here so 13.7 seen on the skyview could have been 14.0 volts.

At lower RPMs like idle you're not going to see much more than battery voltage because the charging system on the rotax is similar to an old generator. More RPM means higher voltage and vice versa.

Again at low RPMs like in the pattern the battery supplements the electrical requirement of the 12. So you would see -.1 and -.2 occasionally.

I suggest flying the plane some more to see how the regulator operates before changing it out. Leave the maintainer off the battery for a while to. ;)
 
The accuracy is a question for Dynon. I do not know. There is a big difference between resolution and accuracy. Digital displays might have a resolution of 0.1 or even 0.01, but their accuracy might only be plus or minus 1. Fuel level and fuel pressure are examples. They both have analog sensors but display high resolution digital numbers that are far from accurate.

Joe,

If one were to install a 47mf 63v capacitor.....would you know where the easiest place to wire into our electrical system? And would the 22mf capacitor have to be removed?
 
When ours "failed" it was only showing 12.5 or so in cruise flight .... which means no charge at all. Anything below 3500 RPM is not telling you the whole story as far as recharging the battery.
 
VR going out

Thanks to everyone for suggestions/help...I will go up again for longer period and see if batter goes down below 12...which it did originally till the guys at Arlington change a wire and it then maintained a good charge up flying..till couple days ago...happy to go up just give me a excuse to fly
 
Ric,
I assume you meant 47,000 microfarad. The easiest place might be near the regulator and tap into the B+ wire from the regulator. No, the 22,000 microfarad capacitor would not have to be disconnected. I do not know if adding another capacitor would help anything though.
Joe
If one were to install a 47mf 63v capacitor.....would you know where the easiest place to wire into our electrical system? And would the 22mf capacitor have to be removed?
 
I remember THAT THREAD started by the guy from Arlington. Their "FIX" is akin to putting a penny in place of a fuse. Yeah, the circuit works. But is it safe? In case of smoke in the cockpit at cruise RPM, shutting off the master switch will not shut off the dynamo (alternator) if the alternator half of the master switch has been bypassed. Don't believe me Dick? After the regulator problem has been solved, go flying and at cruise RPM, shut off the master switch and see if electrical power goes off or not. A pilot should have the ability to shut off all electrical power. One could always pull the 30 amp fuse. But when you are coughing and your eyes are stinging from the smoke, will you remember to pull that fuse? Smoke in the cockpit is unlikely. But why take a chance? Fix the problem the right way. Two wrongs do not make a right. Van's Aircraft put a switch in the "C" terminal circuit for a reason.
 
I remember THAT THREAD started by the guy from Arlington. Their "FIX" is akin to putting a penny in place of a fuse. Yeah, the circuit works. But is it safe? In case of smoke in the cockpit at cruise RPM, shutting off the master switch will not shut off the dynamo (alternator) if the alternator half of the master switch has been bypassed. Don't believe me Dick? After the regulator problem has been solved, go flying and at cruise RPM, shut off the master switch and see if electrical power goes off or not. A pilot should have the ability to shut off all electrical power. One could always pull the 30 amp fuse. But when you are coughing and your eyes are stinging from the smoke, will you remember to pull that fuse? Smoke in the cockpit is unlikely. But why take a chance? Fix the problem the right way. Two wrongs do not make a right. Van's Aircraft put a switch in the "C" terminal circuit for a reason.


Joe,

See PM
 
v/r failure

Joe, you mean there should be a switch in the small yellow wire?? When I first started flying this new plane it would not charge all..Van's had no answer, post's were not helping..Arlington repair fixed it so a little hard to find fault..
 
Yes, there is already a switch in series with the small yellow wire. One half of the master switch controls the battery contactor and the other half of the master switch controls the small yellow wire going to the regulator "C" terminal. Shutting off the master switch normally shuts off all sources of electrical power, both the battery and the alternator. The voltage regulator needs battery voltage to be enabled. But once up and running, the regulator no longer needs the battery to continue operating. If a jumper is placed around the regulator half of the master switch, as was done in your plane, the pilot loses the ability to shut off the alternator. Shutting off the master switch during cruise only disconnects the battery. But the alternator will continue running because it is still supplying power to terminal "C". You can test this by shutting off the master switch during cruise and notice that electrical loads keep on working even with the battery disconnected. Also notice that the little green light on the master switch remains lit with the master switch turned off. The guys from Arlington did not find and fix the problem with your electrical system. They just bypassed it. And they created a new problem, the inability to shut off the alternator during cruise. Smoke in the cockpit is one situation where one might want to shut off electrical power. A fuel tank leak is another.
 
Dual glass panels draw more electrical current which makes the regulator run hotter. Mounting the regulator with heat-conductive grease helps to conduct the heat away. I suggest that Van's add that hint to the plans.
As part of the annual inspection, I suggest that each female terminal of the regulator plug be tested by inserting a male spade connector. If the spade slides in easily, then the female terminal is not gripping tight enough. A loose connector generates heat which speeds up corrosion which generates more heat which, over time, leads to failure.
Some RV-12 owners have discarded the regulator plastic housing and connect each terminal individually.

I don't think this is the solution. My VR failed and was installed with heat-conductive grease as I thought the firewall would help to cool the VR. As others have noted, the FW gets very hot itself and I wonder if it actually heated the VR more than it was cooled.
I am flying out of Southern Arizona and of course temps are pretty off the charts in the summer. Nothing odd in terms of power usage installed. Just an SV with lighting package. Landing light is set to flashing during pattern work, off otherwise.
 
Hi Macpara,

I just went through the Rotax class in Tucson. There were 4-5 RV12 owners there and 13 of us total. We talked about Van's having the highest VR failure rate of the aircraft Mfg's. I also talked to another Rotax instructor and they seem to be on the same page. Since I'm kinda new at this I have been trying to learn everything I can.

Here is what I learned. Heat is the killer. Anything 170F+ is too hot. Heat is either caused by too low a current draw or too large a current draw. Heat is also caused by mechanical heat from surrounding objects. This is our problem.
Here is an easy fix that I found out that seems to be working for the RV12's that have started doing it this way.

First put a 1/4" to 3/8" spacer under the VR and the shelf to give it an air gap. No more heat conduction from the hot metal shelf or a firewall. Make sure the VR has its own ground wire. The 3/4" hose that is in the air intake on top of the engine works more like a suction which pulls in all the hot air from the #4 exhaust pipe and of course any heat build up in the metal shelf adds to that heat. heat doesn't get dissipated it gets added to. Now just pull the flex tube from the VR just a tad further into the air tube and turn the opening toward the fresh air intake opening. You can silicone this back in place facing forward and or add a piece of safety wire through the intake tube around the flex tube to keep it facing forward. This now becomes cooler air being FORCED over the VR and out the bottom edges that help keep hot air away. Some of the owners said they had used exhaust wrap on the #4 exhaust pipe to reduce heat. From what I have been able to gather from other RV12 owners that have done this is they no longer have any more issues as the VR stays much cooler and the heat is swept away. I did mine right after the class and put some temp strips on it to check the VR temp. Temps stayed below 150F. Doing this little mod keeps the heat of the metal shelf out of the VR with the air gap and cool forced air flows over the VR.

So from what I have been able to learn is the VR's aren't the issue as this would be a major problem worldwide. Using another VR sounds like just a bandaid when the fix is so simple and it's all about cooling.
 
Vr mod

Could you post a picture of your setup the next time you have your cowling off, thanks.
 
Heat

O.K. but what about those of us that had newer RV12'a that put the VR under the panel in the cockpit...don't really like to run cold air to cockpit..and it is not hot under the panel...why do these VR's get so hot..car VR's do not get hot and rarely fail....if I can figure out the wiring difference I'm going to put in the John Deer one I bought a long time ago..certainly prior to ordering another Ducati at $170.00 and trying to chase warranty with Rotax which is difficult.
 
Hi Macpara,

I just went through the Rotax class in Tucson. There were 4-5 RV12 owners there and 13 of us total. We talked about Van's having the highest VR failure rate of the aircraft Mfg's. I also talked to another Rotax instructor and they seem to be on the same page. Since I'm kinda new at this I have been trying to learn everything I can.

Here is what I learned. Heat is the killer. Anything 170F+ is too hot. Heat is either caused by too low a current draw or too large a current draw. Heat is also caused by mechanical heat from surrounding objects. This is our problem.
Here is an easy fix that I found out that seems to be working for the RV12's that have started doing it this way.

First put a 1/4" to 3/8" spacer under the VR and the shelf to give it an air gap. No more heat conduction from the hot metal shelf or a firewall. Make sure the VR has its own ground wire. The 3/4" hose that is in the air intake on top of the engine works more like a suction which pulls in all the hot air from the #4 exhaust pipe and of course any heat build up in the metal shelf adds to that heat. heat doesn't get dissipated it gets added to. Now just pull the flex tube from the VR just a tad further into the air tube and turn the opening toward the fresh air intake opening. You can silicone this back in place facing forward and or add a piece of safety wire through the intake tube around the flex tube to keep it facing forward. This now becomes cooler air being FORCED over the VR and out the bottom edges that help keep hot air away. Some of the owners said they had used exhaust wrap on the #4 exhaust pipe to reduce heat. From what I have been able to gather from other RV12 owners that have done this is they no longer have any more issues as the VR stays much cooler and the heat is swept away. I did mine right after the class and put some temp strips on it to check the VR temp. Temps stayed below 150F. Doing this little mod keeps the heat of the metal shelf out of the VR with the air gap and cool forced air flows over the VR.

So from what I have been able to learn is the VR's aren't the issue as this would be a major problem worldwide. Using another VR sounds like just a bandaid when the fix is so simple and it's all about cooling.

Will take this description and run with it. A pic or two, when convenient, is helpful to visually confirm your suggested changes. What is the material and design of the spacer? Thank you!
 
VR failure

Yes..after only 26.7 hours the Ducati VR failed...it no longer charged the battery regardless of RPM...installed the John Deer regulator and it now is charging wonderfully..battery up to snuff with all electronics on...now to let Van's Aircraft know it failed at 26.7 hours and apply to Rotax for new one under warrenty...all wishfull thinking....thanks to everyone for help solving this issue...
 
All I did was go to Ace Hardware (it was suggested) and purchased a brass bushing with a hole size the same as my screw. It is twice as long as you need so I cut it in half. This gives you one for each side. Then I also bought a longer screw to accommodate the spacer length. Piece of cake. Now I have an air gap between the metal shelf and VR which allows no direct heat transfer from the shelf and some air cooling underneath. After I turned my air tube towards the front opening I hooked up a little blower to push air at the opening. You can feel the air coming out down at the VR. Don't forget to take care of the #4 exhaust pipe heat radiation and convected heat by applying some header wrap. Now I have a cooler VR. This was a great suggestion and it was easy to do. I'm a happy camper now.
 
Ric,
I assume you meant 47,000 microfarad. The easiest place might be near the regulator and tap into the B+ wire from the regulator. No, the 22,000 microfarad capacitor would not have to be disconnected. I do not know if adding another capacitor would help anything though.
Joe

No, he wrote it correctly. 47 mFd is 47 millifarads, which is 47,000 microfarads. The problem is that our keyboards don't have the little u with the tail on it (Greek letter micro) so most of us just use the standard u for micro.

Jim
 
My mistake. I am used to dealing with microfarads. Your keyboard does have a "µ" key. Try typing 230 while holding down the ALT key. 47,000 µF A good way to remember that is that 230 volts is common in many places. Search for "ASCII codes" for lots of other symbols to make with keyboard combinations.

No, he wrote it correctly. 47 mFd is 47 millifarads, which is 47,000 microfarads. The problem is that our keyboards don't have the little u with the tail on it (Greek letter micro) so most of us just use the standard u for micro.
Jim
 
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All I did was go to Ace Hardware (it was suggested) and purchased a brass bushing with a hole size the same as my screw. It is twice as long as you need so I cut it in half. This gives you one for each side. Then I also bought a longer screw to accommodate the spacer length. Piece of cake. Now I have an air gap between the metal shelf and VR which allows no direct heat transfer from the shelf and some air cooling underneath. After I turned my air tube towards the front opening I hooked up a little blower to push air at the opening. You can feel the air coming out down at the VR. Don't forget to take care of the #4 exhaust pipe heat radiation and convected heat by applying some header wrap. Now I have a cooler VR. This was a great suggestion and it was easy to do. I'm a happy camper now.

You know Jolly, I like your approach....air gap, shroud and air tube. I think I'm going to fiberglass an air scoop w/ 1" fiberglass tube into the lower cowl air tunnel and run 1" flex tubbing to the regulator shroud....also, wrap the exhaust headers at the rear of the engine.

I know Van's was trying to get the regulator into a cooler location, but forced outside air would be best...and eliminates the possibility of smoke in the cockpit.
 
VR failure

So I sent email to Van's regarding VR failure after only 26.7 hours..my response was "Van's does not warranty parts"..so they don't even care if the part fails after only 26.7 hours??? and not help in solving the problem??? Are they so busy selling kits they don't care about those of us who have already built one??? Very disappointed with Van's!!!!!
 
failure of VR

So I sent email to other Rotax dealers with inquiry as to how to replace under warranty the Ducati regulator...I did get a very nice letter from Leading Edge Air...and she said just buy another Regulator ($170.00) and they would put in claim to Rotax and when they were compensated they would send the money via my credit card...Ben Barron tried this with Cal. Motor Sports and never got compensated...I think this is pie in sky??? Iether Rotax is not delivering or if they are delivering the vender is not delivering...either way the consumer is losing...
 
So I sent email to other Rotax dealers with inquiry as to how to replace under warranty the Ducati regulator...I did get a very nice letter from Leading Edge Air...and she said just buy another Regulator ($170.00) and they would put in claim to Rotax and when they were compensated they would send the money via my credit card...Ben Barron tried this with Cal. Motor Sports and never got compensated...I think this is pie in sky??? Iether Rotax is not delivering or if they are delivering the vender is not delivering...either way the consumer is losing...

This is the way Lycoming warranty works too. This is exactly what the factory told me about my dipstick SB.
 
So I sent email to Van's regarding VR failure after only 26.7 hours..my response was "Van's does not warranty parts"..so they don't even care if the part fails after only 26.7 hours??? and not help in solving the problem??? Are they so busy selling kits they don't care about those of us who have already built one??? Very disappointed with Van's!!!!!

I would expect to have to deal directly with the manufacturer for warranty service for any of the equipment Vans sells with their kits; Rotax, Lycoming, Dynon, Sensenich, etc, etc. Vans is not a service distributor for these vendors.
 
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So I sent email to other Rotax dealers with inquiry as to how to replace under warranty the Ducati regulator...I did get a very nice letter from Leading Edge Air...and she said just buy another Regulator ($170.00) and they would put in claim to Rotax and when they were compensated they would send the money via my credit card...Ben Barron tried this with Cal. Motor Sports and never got compensated...I think this is pie in sky??? Iether Rotax is not delivering or if they are delivering the vender is not delivering...either way the consumer is losing...

Leading Edge Air Foils will send you a form to fill out. You must fill it out correctly.
On the form where it asked for info from your mechanic your will fill this out with your Repairman license number and include a copy of you log book entry where you described the problem and the fix. Something like R & R VR. I would leave out the part about replacing it with the JD regulator. If you have any questions about the form call LEAF and ask them. You will then need to send the form and the bad VR back to them. They may or may not test the VR to see if it is bad. Then they will consult with the North American Supplier of Rotax Engines and Parts. A company call Kodiak I believe. Then you will get your refund. I can't recall how long the VR is warranted for. LEAF would know or maybe somebody can speak up. This whole process will take about 30 days. Keep your shipping recite and occassionally check your Credit card for the refund. You may have to follow up with LEAF if the refund doesn't show up after 30 days. This is the process all 450 owners of flying RV12s had to go through to get a warranty refund. ;)
 
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