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Drburring

Basic answer, Yes. You will notice that one side of the pre-punched holes have rough edges. Cleaning them up goes quick.
 
Don't overdo it

The reality is that it doesn't take a whole to lot debur a rivet hole; a quick wipe with a gloved finger or scotch-brite will do the job in most cases, especially the pre-punched holes. For the edges, here again, a fine grit scotch-brite pad does a very good job, or a simply a run or two with a rapid deburr tool like this does well: http://www.industrialboys.com/columnar.aspx?category_site=DTAP&cat_id=5644&prod_id=63659&referer=https%3A//www.google.com/&compidcookieset&sessioncookieset

For holes drilled in heavier material, one twist of a properly sized counter sink does a great job.

I do use a deburr wheel on a bench grinder for those parts that I cut myself, or ones that are separated, in order to clean up the larger spikes, but my opinion is that you can really go overboard on deburring and exceed the need, which is simply to remove any burrs and have a smooth edge.
 
The more complex answer is "only if it seems necessary"

The Skins on the RV-12 are thin (only .020" thick) so a newbee builder over deburring would be making things worse than if they did no deburring at all.

There can occasionally be variation in hole quality depending on sharpness of punching tool, etc., so parts should be inspected, but if holes in a skin don't have enough bur to catch a finger nail on, it can be used as is.
 
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