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Mounting Honda S2000 Start Button

CharlieWaffles

Well Known Member
I just picked up one of these lighted Honda S2000 engine start buttons and I'm wondering what others have figured out on how to mount this in a panel? The snap clips seem to be designed for a material thickness of 3/4" or so, rather than the .060 thick panel we use. Anyone have information they can share on what direction they went?

I was thinking of having some delrin drilled and manually cutting the positioning ears/clip channels the assembly has around it.


starter3.jpg
 
Someone on the Vertical Power Forums used one of them... Perhaps a PM to him there would yield some info?
 
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I posted over on VP as well, but the thread is old and was only mentioned by one person.

Just figured I'd check to see if anyone else has fabricated something, otherwise I'll start from scratch.
 
Can you find some tubing (PVC, thick wall AL, etc) with the right diameter? If so, just cut to the right length & slide it on the back after inserting the switch in the panel.

Charlie
 
It's a possibility. The back as for "ears" at 90 degree intervals that can be used to keep it from rotating, so if I can't find a pipe, I might have TAP plastics make up a plastic insert/bushing to slide it into.
 
Here's how I mounted it in my panel. I basically drilled a hole big enough for the body and then filed a taper with notches necessary to clear all of the odd flanges on the switch. I did this until the switch fit tight against the instrument panel:

IMG_9753.JPG


I then mounted a short piece of angle next to the hole:

IMG_9751.JPG


This catches one of the protrusions on the side of the button:

IMG_9752.JPG


I then fabricated another piece of aluminum to wedge between the panel and the protrusion on the other side of the panel. You want it a little long so that it doesn't quite fit up tight against the side of the button. A zip tie keeps everything together:

IMG_9754.JPG


The switch is tight against the instrument panel with no play at all. Larger pictures are available here.
 
I know it's a long shot, but if/when that zip tie slides off, that little piece of aluminum is bouncing around back there with a lot of exposed terminals.
 
Ok, the idea to use some tubing was perfect. Luckily Aircraft Depot was still open. So I grabbed a 1 1/4" PVC connector. The switch slides right in and is relatively snug.

WP_001479.jpg



I measure the distance from the front face to the "prong" that secures the button. I marked that on the tube and drilled it with a 5/16" bit. I then squared off the hole a little with the dremel. The 5/16" hole keeps the prong from rotating, so the button wont rotate. It also catches the prong and the button wont come out without a bit of effort.

I noticed the button didn't sit perfectly in the middle of the tube.
WP_001480.jpg


So I taped up the back of the button and put it place. I then mixed up some very thick epoxy and forced it into the rear portion of the tube to mold the shape of the button in the proper position.

WP_001483.jpg


Once it cures, the button should be nice and snug and will only come out with some gentle prying. I plan to epoxy the tube to the back of the panel and fillet it in place to keep it secure.
 
I know it's a long shot, but if/when that zip tie slides off, that little piece of aluminum is bouncing around back there with a lot of exposed terminals.

I ended up filing some notches in the pieces of metal to prevent the zip-tie from sliding around. Even if it broke, the switch is mounted at the bottom of the panel, so the piece of metal would just fall on the floor.
 
Don't pay any attention to me...

I ended up filing some notches in the pieces of metal to prevent the zip-tie from sliding around. Even if it broke, the switch is mounted at the bottom of the panel, so the piece of metal would just fall on the floor.

Unless you are inverted! :D

How do you start your Honda now? :D.
 
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