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Float Sender - Gasket Question

David Paule

Well Known Member
The float senders I'm using came with thick rubber gaskets. Those of you with these senders who are flying your planes, did you use the gaskets or did you use tank sealant? Or both?

And how did it work out?

Thanks,
Dave
 
The float senders I'm using came with thick rubber gaskets. Those of you with these senders who are flying your planes, did you use the gaskets or did you use tank sealant? Or both?

And how did it work out?

Thanks,
Dave

Tank sealant only - the thick rubber gaskets swell, deform, and leak....awful things....
 
Thank you Paul!

Thank you Paul!
I tried using the gasket on my first tank and did not like the results. I did not use the gasket on the second and went back and pulled it from the first. But I had a nagging question if I was right.

Thank you for the conformation,

Keith
 
Houston, do I have a problem?

I installed my float senders using the rubber gaskets AND proseal over the inside and out. The platenuts used were the regular "open" ones from Vans, but I believe I adequately coated those as well on the inside. What's the likelyhood that the rubber gasket deformation you speak of would cause my setup to leak?
 
I installed my float senders using the rubber gaskets AND proseal over the inside and out. The platenuts used were the regular "open" ones from Vans, but I believe I adequately coated those as well on the inside. What's the likelyhood that the rubber gasket deformation you speak of would cause my setup to leak?

Probably depends on how much pro-seal you slathered on...... ;)

In my first build, I dutifully used the gaskets. About three days after I filled the tanks for the first time, I had blue stains running out - I had not used any sealant, figuring the gaskets were there to seal things. Didn't work out that way.

I doubt there is a way to predict the likelihood of a good seal or bad one. It is probably a question of how accessible it is now versus how accessible it would be later to re-do. If you have the wings off, now would be a great time to consider changing (if you want to change). If the wings are already on, then you might as well see if it seals - fixing it will be just as painful now as later.

My opinion of course.

Paul
 
Paul is right

Yep. I, too, have verified the rubber gaskets will leak within 3 days, if not sooner. Just use proseal. Clean the tank surfance and the sender really well with Acetone or MEK.

Vic
 
Gaskets

Now I'm thinking I should remove the cork gaskets and Titeseal on the access plates and seal them with Proseal. I used them just in case I decided to add a return line. Doh!:eek:
 
the tank building instructions now specify using ProSeal only on both the sender unit and the t- 708. throw the rubber gasket away.
 
I used a cork gasket, the same gasket as my Piper, which never leaked over 20 years, and same gasket used by Beech. If installed with a little Permatex non-hardening gasket sealer, they will not leak and will be easy to remove, which I had to do twice over 20 years on the Piper to replace the sender.
On the other hand, the rubber gasket will leak almost immediately.
 
... cork gaskets and Titeseal on the access plates

That's what I did and have experienced zero leaks in ~130 flying hours. No tank sealant. No regrets.

Note that my gaskets are cork; I know nothing of rubber gaskets supplied to seal the access plates. Makes me wonder if the supplied gaskets have changed or we're talking about two different things here.

--
Joe
 
That's what I did and have experienced zero leaks in ~130 flying hours. No tank sealant. No regrets.

Note that my gaskets are cork; I know nothing of rubber gaskets supplied to seal the access plates. Makes me wonder if the supplied gaskets have changed or we're talking about two different things here.

--
Joe

Two different things, and folks are confusing the isue when they talk about the access plates. The OP is talking about the SENDER gaskets (thick rubber things) - not the access plate gaskest (which are cork). Personally, I use proseal on the access plates as well - no leaks, and not terribly hard to remove if you have to, at least in my experience.
 
I agree with Paul, and this has been covered here in the forums many times.

These threads commonly pop up a number of people that have used the cork or rubber gaskets and mention that they have had no problems, but they usually have relatively new, low time RV's.
The reality is the gaskets can work, but are pretty much guaranteed to leak eventually. Use of proseal (if done correctly) is pretty much guaranteed to not leak... ever.
So you can choose ease of removal over a high likelihood of them needing to be removed at some point in the future.

Also mentioned in previous discussions....
The way to make the sender or cover much easier to remove when installed using standard B2 or B1/2 tank sealant, is to not fully tighten the screws. I.E. leave a thin (.020-.025") layer between the parts to allow for a putty knife to be tapped through if you ever need to.
The down side to this is it increases the probability of a poor ground continuity between the tank, cover plate, and/or sender flange which will cause a the fuel gauge to not function.
The way to overcome this is to put an internal or external tooth lock washer under at least one screw that mounts the sender, and one on the cover. This will assure electrical continuity between the screw head and the plate / or flange, even if the plate is not tightened down fully.
The washers are specified in the build drawings for the new kits, but it would be beneficial on any RV model.
 
Two different things, and folks are confusing the isue when they talk about the access plates. The OP is talking about the SENDER gaskets (thick rubber things) - not the access plate gaskest (which are cork). Personally, I use proseal on the access plates as well - no leaks, and not terribly hard to remove if you have to, at least in my experience.

Actually Paul the original fuel senders from Vans were real SW ones and came with cork gaskets.

They are still pretty standard...

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ct_id=101/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd101.htm

There are a lot of 70's Dodge Vans still driving around with cork gaskets below the full level of their gas tanks. :)
 
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