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Show us your panel !!!!!

Some of you guys are out of control there with those flash panels! Amazing work & costly too!:) Airliner material:)
Does anyone still do a std 6 pack these days? Old school here as I like to look out the window & admire the view than inside heads down fiddling missing the world go by:)
 
Some of you guys are out of control there with those flash panels! Amazing work & costly too!:) Airliner material:)
Does anyone still do a std 6 pack these days? Old school here as I like to look out the window & admire the view than inside heads down fiddling missing the world go by:)

Go to post one, 2005, amazing to see how fast technology has advanced, I am new to all this and still learning, waiting for voice activated auto throttle take off and landing, they already fly A to B with just pushing a button!
 
Review of my panel design/layout

Hello everyone.
So I'm working on FWF and will be moving into panel and wiring next. I have held off long enough and think I need some input on my panel design/layout. Please let me know your thought pro's and con's. RV7 - tipup

t8Ku16-12ARYuAUwsGxbWcoeTjXbuF936VLpIim8FTgrZct94H1ha9Z_UO0zQHQmx9reMO0YxTKrNjx2ovGJDoWEQBhM_tv7gTxWOPI26XeqP6MqZijvEXPcYS937b8-lXwqBvKGydCY3ShBnsdPBrI2fNu52jpVya422P6gfs75f5tjUN4xDkY4pu1lb3_sLdAuOJyJo-G5pzEkBoitDb2Gi-H7zVU3v-vzvc0o3BysGHzW8P7qnIbcgET4HFZiHp3CxK7oP5wqumWEFmik371V4X5gDsN6UVjYKwAP2GQinsPC1tc74AfsaYiK23z1L9C_XpNwnsNodQo9h8pH-o9_d07KXPtDDJNRLFnzp6Nb4pwGMf04IAEJi_WorP2XrnABRFN6AcZxXfcIFDM-MU9BWQ3iWtr6nxTzWGf3W_JfY9n0wgPM9cbQFMqehL3EAD40IMIH4a_rrwUOvVmHJJ8thKPuxnPZz2FKeeJiuzrdw8Hv4q4jZAqffy4CE4qsh4GpddlIyXLUIQPAHGHYkVsKCXjQ_SUr1XHxPtUYEMgV0GMHaqfmJhaVOc8ce32grlDI7RhUde3xPrxuQ3a4oWfMS4DqWh3mEoMqRzw=w1316-h941-no


Viewing link of image is here for zooming.
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPnfeJzDEWS1lNmZJC-UqdyfW0OfrEPKcUnfR3R/photo/AF1QipPssGod04c-zGdUYqP22_UNPxoYrI_bfbtPxn-I
 
One gotcha to watch out for: If you're using the RV7 panel DXF drawing from Van's, it is actually of the unbent panel. The actual panel is about an inch shorter in real life with the bend included. Double check your vertical dimension against your actual panel blank; the vertical dimension of my stock panel is ~ 10 3/16"

My layout assumed the extra inch was usable space, so my panel layout wouldn't work. I had a new panel cut by Up North Aviation from an oversized blank from Van's that only has the bend completed to add my inch back.
 
Go to post one, 2005, amazing to see how fast technology has advanced, I am new to all this and still learning, waiting for voice activated auto throttle take off and landing, they already fly A to B with just pushing a button!

I have but unfortunately all the early pix are not accessible anymore:-( I wanted to see the Piper Arrow quadrant someone used, I'd like that as I really dislike the 7 & 6 throttle arrangements, reminds me of a Cessna!:)
 
Hello everyone.
So I'm working on FWF and will be moving into panel and wiring next. I have held off long enough and think I need some input on my panel design/layout. Please let me know your thought pro's and con's. RV7 - tipup[/URL]


I like your panel. You might consider allowing a space large enough for a G5X just in case you (or a future owner) to install.

QUESTION > What switches are you planning to use for your lights (the larger circular), are they a push button?
 
So I'm working on FWF and will be moving into panel and wiring next. I have held off long enough and think I need some input on my panel design/layout. Please let me know your thought pro's and con's. RV7 - tipup

Here are a ?few? comments, and of course, your mileage may vary:
1. The USB port on the left is so close to the throttle that there may be interference with the port or the cables;
2. If there is anything dangling from the ignition key, it may hit the stick when deflected or be a nuisance on your leg;
3. Things that earn their way onto the stick are those that you use frequently and need promptly, or need to access when both hands are busy. Boost pump does not qualify. Also, there?s the concept of flow, that you move your attention around the cockpit in the same order as they appear on the checklist to make sure that the switches are all set. Boost pump on the stick probably wouldn?t fit that concept well;
4. Similarly, the only reason for having flaps on the stick is if you need to dump flaps on the rollout. I?ve thought about doing this on my RV-8;
5. Nice that your stick grip is not left or right handed;
6. I?ve learned to fly my RV-9A with left hand on the stick, and it no longer has the awkward feeling it did when I started. You?ll have all of Phase 1 to get used to it, so you might not need the dual throttles;
7. Good that you grouped your switches instead of having a long row;
8. I?d put strobe at the end, rather than in the middle;
9. If you ever do go inside cloud, it will be strobes off, pitot heat on. You might consider putting them next to each other;
10. The parking brake is in an area normally reserved for power controls, and more specifically, for carburetor heat. I?d move it. Similarly for cabin heat;
11. No point in putting warning lights on the center stack, put them in front of the pilot;
12. Having a light for fuel pump on is no longer considered by all to be good human factors (quiet, dark cockpit concept). The argument is that it gets you used to seeing a light on;
13. Move the seat warmer switches closer to the pilot.

Hope this helps,

Ed
 
Pazmanyflyer panel post 1055

Hi Carlos,
For the future Skyview EFIS on the right, how about going ahead and cutting out the panel for it and then cover it with a cover plate that has a glovebox built in it? Might as well get some use out of that blank space until you install the second Skyview.
 
Updated panel picture with new G3X 7" touch displays, Aera 660 and CGR30P engine monitor.

IMG_7793-1200-XL.jpg


Updated to 3 screens….

IMG_0683%20orig-XL.jpg
 
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Here are a “few” comments, and of course, your mileage may vary:
Hope this helps,

Ed

1. The USB port on the left is so close to the throttle that there may be interference with the port or the cables;
Correct and there might be. The left side may move up / out on the panel.
2. If there is anything dangling from the ignition key, it may hit the stick when deflected or be a nuisance on your leg;
Just the key – No dangling things….I’ll leave all the other keys on my car key chain.
3. Things that earn their way onto the stick are those that you use frequently and need promptly, or need to access when both hands are busy. Boost pump does not qualify. Also, there’s the concept of flow, that you move your attention around the cockpit in the same order as they appear on the checklist to make sure that the switches are all set. Boost pump on the stick probably wouldn’t fit that concept well;
How is the boost pump not used frequently? Pump on before / after takeoff and on during landing. Flow will be reconsidered, thanks.
4. Similarly, the only reason for having flaps on the stick is if you need to dump flaps on the rollout. I’ve thought about doing this on my RV-8;
I like it on the stick. Personal preference and I don’t need to move my hands during takeoff / landing.
5. Nice that your stick grip is not left or right handed;
I did this so there is no conflict if I want to switch hands.
6. I’ve learned to fly my RV-9A with left hand on the stick, and it no longer has the awkward feeling it did when I started. You’ll have all of Phase 1 to get used to it, so you might not need the dual throttles;
I will eventually adapt but I do this for personal preference.
7. Good that you grouped your switches instead of having a long row;
8. I’d put strobe at the end, rather than in the middle;
My checklist have me putting on strobes before NAV, Landing or Taxi lights. So flow for me is this setup.
9. If you ever do go inside cloud, it will be strobes off, pitot heat on. You might consider putting them next to each other;
No problem. I’ll switch positions between the PITOT and A/P switches. Now they are next to each other but still separated by groups.
10. The parking brake is in an area normally reserved for power controls, and more specifically, for carburetor heat. I’d move it. Similarly for cabin heat;
I’m going FI so no carb heat. I don’t want any push/pull cables sticking out from the panel or hidden in a corner somewhere.
11. No point in putting warning lights on the center stack, put them in front of the pilot;
I have them above the COM to separate them slightly from the busy color screen of the EFIS. My eye will catch the out of place light warning better this way.
12. Having a light for fuel pump on is no longer considered by all to be good human factors (quiet, dark cockpit concept). The argument is that it gets you used to seeing a light on;
It will be off during most of the flight. Because I do not have a panel mounted fuel pump switch it will illuminate whenever the pump is on as a reminder.
13. Move the seat warmer switches closer to the pilot.
This location is strictly for the wife. I will hardly ever use it and within easy reach for me and out of the way of normal switches. Same for the dimmers.


Thank you for the input Ed. It is appreciated.
 
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Hi Carlos,
For the future Skyview EFIS on the right, how about going ahead and cutting out the panel for it and then cover it with a cover plate that has a glovebox built in it? Might as well get some use out of that blank space until you install the second Skyview.

Hi Tom,

I thought about this but I came to the conclusion that I don't want to cut a hole that for some reason won't fit some other EFIS / panel mounted display. Right now I'm thinking it will be used for an Ipad moving map setup. I'll have enough sidewall pockets from the Classic Aero interior to carry what I need.
 
QUESTION > What switches are you planning to use for your lights (the larger circular), are they a push button?

Yes they are an on/off push button. An anti-vandal type of illuminated LED ring (or dot). The idea is from RV6/6A builder John Bridges (JackW - VAF) from downunder (OZ). Here is an image of his panel which I REALLY liked.

6073728f.jpg


Not positive about the Master and Alt. switches. I think these need to be rated for load and I'm not sure if these push buttons can handle the master/Alt loads, hence the toggle. This will be my next round of questions in the "electrical systems" section after more research. John stated that his switches were "DPDT with a separate circuit for the LED ring. LED can be lit for either switch on or off. These switches are only rated at 3A@250V but that isn't a problem here because they are connected to a VP-X so only grounding a circuit to earth for the VP-X. The issue with that is I needed a separate power supply for the LED rings. Not a big deal with the VP-X though. The switches are IP67 rated."

An example of the switch I'm looking at is https://www.oznium.com/anti-vandal-led-switch and are rated 3A@12VDC. I'm trying to find a dual color button. White for off / Red, Blue, Green colors (depending on function) for on.

6723.jpg
 
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My RV-7A Panel

For whatever reason I can?t seem to upload a pic of my panel but I want to plug Jon Thocker of Redline who, after much consultation helped guide me to get a fully-equipped IFR setup. It?s all Garmin with a 650 at the heart of it all. Dual G3X Touch panels (10?), 2nd comm radio, remote transponder, 245 Audio Panel, autopilot, and G5 for backup.

It?s my first airplane and I need to fly it for business so IFR capabilities are necessary.

Jon did terrific work and I recommend him highly.

If anyone can help me with posting a pic I?d love to share it, though some of the panels pictured in this thread are drop-dead gorgeous. Aviation-porn, ;)
 
Hello everyone.
So I'm working on FWF and will be moving into panel and wiring next. I have held off long enough and think I need some input on my panel design/layout. Please let me know your thought pro's and con's. RV7 - tipup

t8Ku16-12ARYuAUwsGxbWcoeTjXbuF936VLpIim8FTgrZct94H1ha9Z_UO0zQHQmx9reMO0YxTKrNjx2ovGJDoWEQBhM_tv7gTxWOPI26XeqP6MqZijvEXPcYS937b8-lXwqBvKGydCY3ShBnsdPBrI2fNu52jpVya422P6gfs75f5tjUN4xDkY4pu1lb3_sLdAuOJyJo-G5pzEkBoitDb2Gi-H7zVU3v-vzvc0o3BysGHzW8P7qnIbcgET4HFZiHp3CxK7oP5wqumWEFmik371V4X5gDsN6UVjYKwAP2GQinsPC1tc74AfsaYiK23z1L9C_XpNwnsNodQo9h8pH-o9_d07KXPtDDJNRLFnzp6Nb4pwGMf04IAEJi_WorP2XrnABRFN6AcZxXfcIFDM-MU9BWQ3iWtr6nxTzWGf3W_JfY9n0wgPM9cbQFMqehL3EAD40IMIH4a_rrwUOvVmHJJ8thKPuxnPZz2FKeeJiuzrdw8Hv4q4jZAqffy4CE4qsh4GpddlIyXLUIQPAHGHYkVsKCXjQ_SUr1XHxPtUYEMgV0GMHaqfmJhaVOc8ce32grlDI7RhUde3xPrxuQ3a4oWfMS4DqWh3mEoMqRzw=w1316-h941-no


Viewing link of image is here for zooming.
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPnfeJzDEWS1lNmZJC-UqdyfW0OfrEPKcUnfR3R/photo/AF1QipPssGod04c-zGdUYqP22_UNPxoYrI_bfbtPxn-I

Wouldnt putting in a future audio panel be redundant with the dynon ICS? Most if not all modern audio panels have a built in ICS. You could just save the cash on the dynon and use that towards the audio panel of your choice. Other than that i really like the layout.
 
Wouldnt putting in a future audio panel be redundant with the dynon ICS? Most if not all modern audio panels have a built in ICS. You could just save the cash on the dynon and use that towards the audio panel of your choice. Other than that i really like the layout.

The Dynon ICS would be removed and re-purposed (used in other build/sold). The new audio panel would then give me more options using 2 COM's and GSP/NAV.
 
Just a test fit- but had to share

Picked it up from AFS Thursday and couldn't help but at least test fit it :). Plenty to install behind the panel before it'll be secured, but wanted to see how it would look. It's set up to add an Avidyne GPS/NAV/COM at some point in the future.

In case anyone noticed the odd placement of the vent attachments, I had the modular panel (3 removable panels with radio stack) frame in before that I had to remove (will be in the classifieds at some point if anyone is interested).

80-small_afs_test_f56896dfcf67daee079ac4bda39f8b45d330de7f.jpg
 
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Looks fabulous, Dan! I'm doing the wiring on my Advanced panel right now, and I've had several test fittings like yours. I can't wait to flip the switches and see everything come to life!
 
Bruce- Get us a pic! I looked at your site, but looks like it has been a few years since you updated the panel page.
 
Is anyone who flies behind dual Garmin 10" touch willing to comment on panel placement?

I'm laying out my panel now. I had originally assumed that I would have one screen in front of the pilot and one in front of the passenger. Autopilot and 650 sit in the middle.

Currently I use a 7" Dynon plus an iPad running Foreflight mounted to a ram mount in front of the passenger. My thought was that the Garmin screens would take over both roles -- the pilot's screen would act as PDF + synthetic vision + engine monitor, while the passenger's screen would be moving map + flight plan. Now I'm starting to think that the second screen may be too far away to comfortably use as a map. Granted, it's a small cockpit, but reading something on the right edge of the second screen could be a bit tricky.

The other option would be to move the second screen to the center and put the 650... somewhere?

Thoughts? How do you use your 10" screens?
 
Walt i like this panel, do you mind if I copy it?

I'd be honored, the layout has been refined over the years and each time it gets a little better. Only problem is now I want to redo my own panel... again!
 
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Awesome panel! Is there a remote 2nd radio? I think I won't be able to use a remote radio because the GTR20 doesn't do 8.33 channel spacing which we need in the UK (for reasons known only to EASA)!
 
Awesome panel! Is there a remote 2nd radio? I think I won't be able to use a remote radio because the GTR20 doesn't do 8.33 channel spacing which we need in the UK (for reasons known only to EASA)!

Yes of course, com 2 is indeed the GTR20.
 
Here is my example of a vfr panel.

Gary

Nice uncluttered panel! I would like to do something similar for my VFR -6A.

Do you have any pictures that show the panel turned on? And is everything you need available on the primary display, or do you need to switch screens?

What are you using for a magnetic compass?

Thanks!
Paul.
 
A nice VFR Garmin panel, this is an RV8 I did but you get the idea.

IMG_7406-625.jpg


Here's another but an RV7, if you're on a budget just make provisions for the RH screen and install it later if you feel like,
2nd com/G5 is also optional.

KW-G3X-650.jpg
 
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What are you using for a magnetic compass?
Thanks! Paul.

Most EFIS have an option for a magnetometer. Not sure about Australian rules, but in the U.S. the magnetic compass need not be independent from electrical power.
 
VFR -6

Paul,

This is what is going in our -6. AFS 4500, AERA660, GTX327 & A/P.

Adding G5 to finish autopilot.
 

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My RV7A G3X Touches 😁

This was after upgrading from non-Touch to Touch
I’ve since changed some of the items along the top data fields, but have not taken a picture of the current setup. I do have my non-Touch screens for sale in the classified. Would be real good way to get a G3X system started.

13861015-0D0F-4BCB-98FE-A6AA811C3086.jpeg
 
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My new G3X Touch VFR panel !

Actual flight this past weekend in the VFR corridors in the Rio de Janeiro terminal area.
 

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