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wing leading edge lights

Abbygirl1

Well Known Member
What are you guys using for landing and taxi lights? I have the Duckworks landing and taxi lights and I might as well carry a good flashlight as they are virtually worthless. They are the h55w fog lamp type, like you would find in a cheap auto parts store. Just not bright enough. I even put a 100w bulb in the landing light with marginal improvement. Is the LED Duckworks conversion worth the money?
 
I used Duckwoks fixtures with Teledyne LED lights.

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Seems like the fog lamp type would be ok for taxi lights, but for landing lights I would think you would want driving lights or a narrow beam. Are your lights the HIDs or the incandesant?

I looked at the Whelen LED landing lights. They look pretty nice, but expensive. I bought the HID kit, but still never lit up so I can provide any feedback yet. The LED lights are very efficient so they don't use much power. Maybe an upgrade later once I get this thing in the air.
 
I am using the Duckworks HID and I like the light but have a little RF noise that shows up in my Nav antenna. I have lost two ballasts in less than 14 months of flying so I am now in the market for LED.
 
I have a 70W and a 50W HID from Duckworks, the runway is lit up from 500 AGL and 1/2 mile final.
My lights were working on the way to the restaurant last night, after dark when I went to depart my left landing light was dead. I haven't had time to trouble shoot yet. I hope it's not the ballast, but I suspect it may be.
 
I used the Duckworks lights and the 50 watt bulb. they did what I need them to do when landing and taxiing, but, yeah, they're pretty low power.

So I just installed the Aerodynamix Whelen LED replacements and while I haven't been flying at night lately, my primary reason for lights in the wings in the first place is for additional recognition in the air.

I'm pretty happy with how they look.
 
I just replaced

my (early) "Bob Olds" style automotive headlamps bulbs (actual high-beam/low-beam for landing and taxi) --- I replaced the standard H4 incandescent light bulbs with Cree LED bulbs - straight plug-in replacement. I took the -6A flying the other night. Reports from the ground said they could see my airplane from several miles away when I turned back to the airport. As far as landing/taxi, the LED replacements were "OK" ---- BUT, and a BIG BUT! --- with the LEDs turned on, the RF noise in the headset is loud and constant! I could still communicate, but leaving the lights on during the day for recognition, is not going to happen --- way too annoying.
 
Aveo Labs Herc 30 w/ Duckworks cutout kit

I haven't installed them yet, but I already have the Duckworks cutouts and plan to use Aveo Labs landing lights (Hercules 30).
 
Duckworks LED

Duckworks now also has an LED landing light solution for those that want to change to something other than HID or the original halogen lights. The first LED Duckworks started selling was only 9W but was already better as a landing light than the original 55W halogen, and is currently RF silent.

The latest LED Duckworks has is a 22W LED that was completely designed and built in the USA. It is much more efficient than the round 9W, and also produces much more light volume overall. It is very similiar to some of the current HID lights in total light power and has a nice focused pinpoint light pattern that can push the light out a long way for when you are coming in on final. It does require some trimming of the Duckworks light mounting plates, but Duckworks will do it for you on a CNC machine if you call and talk to Richard. Otherwise they send out a template with the lights so you can trim your own.



The 55W Halogen lights are a very limited light compared to what is readily available in today's market. If you are still running it, there are much better lights out there.

ALSO, if you are running the original rectangular light, you should by all means take the glass lens off the front of the light itself. It spreads the light in a wide patter and diffuses it. There is no need for that in a landing light when you are trying to push the light out a long distance.
 
Duckworks now also has an LED landing light solution for those that want to change to something other than HID or the original halogen lights. The first LED Duckworks started selling was only 9W but was already better as a landing light than the original 55W halogen, and is currently RF silent.

The latest LED Duckworks has is a 22W LED that was completely designed and built in the USA. It is much more efficient than the round 9W, and also produces much more light volume overall. It is very similiar to some of the current HID lights in total light power and has a nice focused pinpoint light pattern that can push the light out a long way for when you are coming in on final. It does require some trimming of the Duckworks light mounting plates, but Duckworks will do it for you on a CNC machine if you call and talk to Richard. Otherwise they send out a template with the lights so you can trim your own.



The 55W Halogen lights are a very limited light compared to what is readily available in today's market. If you are still running it, there are much better lights out there.

ALSO, if you are running the original rectangular light, you should by all means take the glass lens off the front of the light itself. It spreads the light in a wide patter and diffuses it. There is no need for that in a landing light when you are trying to push the light out a long distance.

OK, Which is brighter? The Whelen LED's or this Duckworth 22w LED. (I'm in the market as I want to install new landing lights): I also don't want any RF noise as I presently have a squeal from my current lights.:confused:
 
Finally taking a gamble

Decided on these from Rigid.......
RIGID INDUSTRIES E-Series 4" SPOT LED Light Bar, CLEAR, Patented Hybrid Optics
model:104212
30 watts
3000 raw lumens
beam distance: 666.6 meters
2.17 amps
simple bracket mount

spot beam........if it works......I can get diffused beam for other side.
price: 219.00 Ebay

Wish me luck
 
OK, Which is brighter? The Whelen LED's or this Duckworth 22w LED. (I'm in the market as I want to install new landing lights): I also don't want any RF noise as I presently have a squeal from my current lights.:confused:

Im afriad there is no way of knowing. A watt measurement is not a light output measurement. Its is simply a measure of power consumption. Watts, as a unit of measure, does not do a good job of telling you how much light is made where you want it. While it takes more watts to create more light, the issue becomes efficiency and heat. You can make heat, and make no light. Or restated, you can have a lot of watts, make a lot of heat, and make little light. Particularly in LED's. Published candela numbers can give you real apples to apples comparisons of what you really want to know as a pilot, how much light does it make? The Whelen round light (Par36) is 60k candela, certified, warrantied.

The FAR's require measurement of light in Candela. There is a very good reason for this.

I hate to see these threads on builders with noise. Noise is a real problem across the various light install issues. With these off the shelf commercial non-aviation LED sources, and even some sold as aviation lights, noise often becomes the nemesis, along with the quality issues discussed like "my light is dead after 2 hours" or "my ballast is blown" or what ever.

Much of these noise issues surround the use of variable voltage switching circuits in the LED circuits. This is a cheap way of making LED's. Its also a cheap way of making RF noise that manifests itself in your headset. I cant think of any thread where the Whelen LED's were making noise. This is because they don't!
 
The 22W LED from Duckworks is a 2000 lumen light. This is the total light volume produced by the light, not the intensity in Candela as Kahuna referred to.

This LED uses tightly focused reflectors (10 degree) to push the light out a long distance and should also produce high Candela measurement. Since we are a small home based business, I have not made it a priority to get the Candela measurement value, but it looks like I should get that done!!



Richard from Duckworks
 
The 22W LED from Duckworks is a 2000 lumen light. This is the total light volume produced by the light, not the intensity in Candela as Kahuna referred to.

This LED uses tightly focused reflectors (10 degree) to push the light out a long distance and should also produce high Candela measurement. Since we are a small home based business, I have not made it a priority to get the Candela measurement value, but it looks like I should get that done!!



Richard from Duckworks

That would be a good measurement for reference.

The old standard 4509 landing light bulb of Cessnas and Pipers is 110,000 candela with a 12 by 6 degree beam pattern.
 
Installed 1 light

I finally got warm enough weather to install the Rigid industries LED spot beam light in the Duckworks leading edge bracket. All I can say is...incredible. The difference was amazing. I flew night before last with the Duckworks light in one wing (100 watt H4) and the Rigid in the other wing. The Rigid light was so much better, I ordered the wide beam "flood" to replace the Duckworks. The only thing that threw me was I wound up pulling the wingtip off because the light and attached bracket wouldn't fit through the front opening, but with the wingtip off and my small hands, it was no problem at all. I would HIGHLY recommend them and I thank those that suggested them here.
 
Wide beam Rigid Industries

Installed the wide beam LED light yesterday. Did preliminary aiming on hangar door as it was still daylight. Really impressed with the quality of the light. Oh, made right here in the good 'ol USA. Amazing, huh?
 
Rigid LED

Yes, the Rigid LED lights. They are made in their own weatherproof diecast metal housing. Just really well made. Check out their website. Got mine on Ebay and saved a few bucks. Well worth the money in my book.
 
Rigid Industries LED pix

Here's a picture of the Rigid Industries LED landing lights. The flood in on the picture's right and the spot is on the left. Excellent product. Well made and BRIGHT and only 2 amp draw. No noise. Also made in the USA. Highly recommended.



library
 
I tried to find some and ended up

making my own replacements ----- used the old lense to make a wood shape and then used a heat gun to bend plexi around the wood form (I tried Lexan but tougher to work with)-- interesting exercise ---- not professional quality, but no one seems to notice.

Ended up replacing the Olds headlights with Whelen PAR 46 LEDs.

Ron
 
FlyLeds: a good option.

If going to Oshkosh, have a look into the Landing Lights from FlyLeds....

4 spot, very bright and drop in replacement for HIDs in the Duckworks leading edge light kit. Fully Wigwagable..... (is that a word?? :) )

In addition, designed and developed specifically for the experimental community.

Extremely good price and outstanding service and support. Im a fan if you haven't noticed....
 
Spot of Flood?

Here's a picture of the Rigid Industries LED landing lights. The flood in on the picture's right and the spot is on the left.
So does the flood or spot work better on a night landing. I have a Rigid SR-Q spot (mounted vertically) on my right gear leg, and am thinking of adding another spot or a flood on the left gear leg. Which do you recommend?
 
So does the flood or spot work better on a night landing. I have a Rigid SR-Q spot (mounted vertically) on my right gear leg, and am thinking of adding another spot or a flood on the left gear leg. Which do you recommend?

I have one of each. Typically use both on for any nightime flights. Even leave them on anytime below 10k'. No problems whatsoever.
 
If I ever catch your Son at the airport, I'll check them out. I watched his video again but really couldn't see the landing lights on the runway. Since I already have a SR-Q spot on the right gear leg, I guess I should put a flood on the left gear leg. Since they have connectors, I could always switch locations if I needed to. As I said earlier, I really wish they were in the wing leading edges so I could leave them on like you do. A wig-wag setup would be nice, too.
 
BruceH - what is the part number for the ones you are using? The ones on their website look different.....

Thanks,
 
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