.....I'm with the structure first, wiring & systems after.....I just feel that you want to add wires etc. after you build structure so you can access them later if needed......
Scott,
I am not sure what point you are making. You say you prefer the "structure first" approach but as it turns out, for lack of an appropriate bucking bar, you chose to install blind rivets along the upper gear tower anyway. What am I missing? So I am asking. Finding yourself needing to install blind rivets anyway, did you or did you not install the skin first? If you did rivet the skin on (structure first) and needed to use blind rivets anyway, do you not see the irony?
In the end, whatever approach you used (skin on, skin off) really doesn't matter
unless you put a premium on much easier access and the undeniable convenience of working from the sitting position on a stool as opposed to folding up the body and finding yourself contorting about the internal structure. Strictly your choice. The quickbuild fuselage does not give you that option because the only choice with the quickbuild fuselage is to fish, route and securely attach those aluminum lines all the while working through small lightening holes. I don't know how you can feel your way through those lightening holes with that soft aluminum tubing without risk of kinking it at some point and then there is the question of neatness. You want those lines to be secure and you don't want anything loose, rubbing or chaffing. A flashlight and mirror becomes your chief means of verifying quality. Obviously, that awkward approach must work because people successfully do it all the time as your average quickbuilder can attest. Personally, when assembling a slow build kit, I'd rather work smarter than harder.
You may have slightly misinterpreted my prior post because I did not suggest nor did I route wires through the gear towers prior to riveting the side skins into place. In my experience, at that point in the assembly process I had little idea what wires or the number of wires to be ultimately routed through the towers. The only prep work I did for that eventuality was to drill a couple of entry and exit holes in the gear towers for the routing of wires to come much later in the assembly process. Yet again, I should point out that not having the skin nailed on (structure first) made drilling the upper regions of the gear towers a much easier task because.....yep, you guessed it.....better access.
You are reasonably correct that the head diameter of the CR3214-4 rivet *will* fit in the original dimple....marginally, I suppose....but it will sit a bit proud. Stickler for detail that I am, achieving optimum surface flushness requires the #40 dimpled hole to be very slightly machine countersunk. A few turns with a hand deburring tool is all it takes,
very little material is actually removed. A few shavings at most. Only then will you find that that blind 1/8" dia. Cherry rivet will achieve optimum surface flushness while sitting in an existing #40 dimple just as smoothly and unobtrusively as all the other surrounding rivets.
One last note: For the benefit of other builders who at some point may wish to use CR3214-4 rivets on the gear towers, above the instrument panel or anywhere else, take note. It is easy enough,
very easy in fact to quickly test the technique without touching the airplane. First, drill two #40 holes in a scrap piece of .032 aluminum, the same substantial thickness the side skins are. Dimple both holes with a #40 dimple die. Now ream both holes up to #30. Slightly machine countersink one hole, leave the other hole just exactly the way it is. Now test fit Cherry rivets inserted into both holes. Set the fasteners if you want to. Compare the side by side results. Draw your own conclusions.
