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-8 QB Fuse recommended working height

jdmunzell

Well Known Member
Christmas in January finally arrived!! My -8 QB Fuse kit showed up and I haven't even started the inventory yet, meaning the plans/manual are still buried somewhere within..

Curious about how others have started this part of the project as far as working height goes. How how off the ground is best for the fuse? Seems like I read somewhere of someone building a rotisserie for the fuse project to make it easier to reach in.

Also, I see where some folks get the gear on fairly early...

Thots...??
 
Longerons a little lower than waist high.
I have had mine in a rotisserie about that hight and then also down lower sitting on milk crates. I liked the rotisserie hight better for most things.
 
Id say 2 feet off the ground. Mine is on a normal table and in instantly regret all my life decisions up to this point.
 
Built a support frame for fuselage

Hello !

Just sharing...Please see my build thread here: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=127826&page=4

My fuselage is slow build, but I am now at the as "delivered quickbuild stage". I didn't have a suitable table to build my airplane on. Thus, I made myself a support frame that will become eventually my transport dolly. I also added some benches around the frame, such that I can either use them to put tools on or climb on-board the fuselage.

I also plan on making a rotisserie later, once everything is riveted final.

Martin
 
At the recommendation of Tony Partain, I purchased two Werner Alum Pro Deck Work Platforms from Home Depot. They stand 16" tall; the platforms come in two sizes and are rated at 225 and 300 lbs. I bought one of each. My QB fuselage is in Oregon awaiting shipment; we'll see how the platforms work out. I've also considered one of John's Rotisserie Kits from Heartland Machine & Mfg. The previously shared Shopify link for purchasing one has expired; not certain of the current status of that company. Wally Anderson (Synergy Air) suggests that's not really necessary; you can do everything fairly well with the fuselage about 2' off the ground.
 
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For the most part I worked with a pair of jack stands under the wood blocks bolted into the spar box that the fuselage shipped with. I could adjust the height as needed and it worked out. Were I to do it again though, I'd definitely take the time to build a rotisserie. Reaching in rather than bending over and reaching down has got to be easier.
 
Make it spin, baby!

I used an auto engine stand from Harbor Freight as a rotisserie, and never regretted it. Along with a rolling, adjustable-height stool, I could comfortably reach most places in the fuselage with it rotated 90 degrees. This was PRICELESS during the wiring stage...which will come soon for you.
 
What Bruce said!

I would highly recommend that you either build or buy a rotisserie jig for your RV-8 fuse. Rotating the fuse 90 degrees from the upright position provides easy access to floors, longeron areas, wiring, etc.

IMO a rotisserie jig and an adjustable height stool are a must have and a real back saver.
 
I used an auto engine stand from Harbor Freight as a rotisserie, and never regretted it. Along with a rolling, adjustable-height stool, I could comfortably reach most places in the fuselage with it rotated 90 degrees. This was PRICELESS during the wiring stage...which will come soon for you.

Everything AA says!
 
Sounds like rotisserrie is the way to go!

Thinking I'll go to a rotisserrie. It doesn't appear to be terribly expensive to make and if it'll save what's left of my back...... Probably Harbor Freight's version..
 
Now...the next question!

So, here i am a year and half later and the fuse is still waiting for the rotisserrie. That's what happens when you make two major moves, have two different shoulder surgeries, AND.... retire from my airline...

Question now.... How do I safely get this QB fuse up onto this Harbor Freight rotisserrie?????
 
I just lift mine. I built a "frame" for the firewall out of angle iron, attached through the engine mount holes (drilled undersize for AN3 bolts). The frame consists of two short upright pieces on the outer edges of the firewall (ie one between bottom and top right, another between bottom and top left), which are then tied together with two longer horizontal pieces, spaced to bolt to the mount plate on the engine stand.

When not on the rotisseries, my fuse sits on two saw horses I built for this purpose. The forward sawhorse is short, maybe a foot tall or so, and the rear one is much taller. The heights are such that I can position the fuselage on them and have it be at roughly level flight attitude.

Anyway, with the fuse on these horses, the mount plate for the engine stand is just a few inches lower than it needs to be to mate with the stand. I can roll the stand in place, grab my angle iron frame with both hands, lift it up, and then nudge the stand forward with my leg when it's aligned with the mount.

It's easier with two people, but definitely doable with just one.

Some blurb about my rotisserie setup can be seen here: http://rv.squawk1200.net/2016/07/22/finishing-a-rotisserie/
 
Thanks for sending that link to your build website. One picture is worth a thousand words as they say. Looks like you used some blocks of wood to set the angle pieces on to move them a little distance from the firewall, presumably to allow you the ability to set that angle in that fashion. It also keeps the firewall from getting marred up as well from the angle.

One thing you did mention was that when the fuse is not on the rotisserrie, that you have those sawhorses to set it on. Do I understand that you don't always keep the fuse on the rotisserrie at this point? Perhaps after all the required floorwork is done and you're actually inside the cockpit doing other things, that the sawhorses are a much more stable platform...

I suppose too that with some castors on the rear sawhorse, that the whole thing can be rolled around in the shop a bit..
 
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