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Who makes the best quality air compressor?

diamond

Well Known Member
I see myself buying a new compressor in the next few months as I prepare to build an RV. There are countless manufacturers out there and I need some help in deciding who is reputable and makes high quality equipment to last a long time. I will probably get something in the 60 gallon range.

Some of the brands I have seen are Ingersoll Rand, Porter Cable, Quincy, Craftsman, Puma, Campbell Hausfeld, NorthStar, Husky, and Kobalt. These are the compressors that are available at various stores in my area. I'm sure there are many others available elsewhere. I guess I'm looking for a general consensus on who is at the top and who is at the bottom. I sure don't want to start a war here, so please be respectful of each others "opinions". Thanks
 
go cheap and don't obsess

I've got a cheapy compressor. I think it is a Campbell Hausfeld. Works fine. The only time it starts to go into overtime is when I'm doing a lot of countersinking with the air drill or running a die grinder. That's pretty rare in the scope of use for this project.

Yes, it can be loud, but that is what hearing protection is for. If I'm just riveting it might go on occasionally for less than a minute. Even using it to spray primer it does just fine. No different from one that costs 5 times a much.

608291067_X48Mj-M.jpg
 
Here has been my experience. My first compressor was from Harbor Freight. It died a quick death (under a year and after the warranty.) I am now using a Korbalt that I purchase from Lowes. The Kobalt has a larger capacity so it runs less, but it is an oil-less style which makes it a lot louder than the oil style I got from Harbor Freight. I purchase the Kobalt based on price.

If I had to do it again, I would have spent the money for a large capacity oil style compressor. While not always true a good quality large capacity (in terms of storage) compressoor will be more expensive.

That's my two cents worth. I am sure others will have a different opinion.

that's the ticket!
 
"American Compressor"

I prefer "American Compressor". They are not cheap but they will last forever. My shop has been very busy for a long time. My compressor has never let me down in over 20 years. I sump the tank daily and change the oil annually.
It's a 2-stage, 5 hp with 80 gallon tank, and it will supply 18 cfm at 125 psi.
Most compressor manufacturers build pumps of all qualities so you can't rely on brand alone. A compressor is one place where you get what you pay for. Buy a cheap compressor and you get a cheap compressor.
 
The 5 HP (ha!), 20 gallon Sears Craftsman compressor I purchased 15 1/2 years ago for my slow-build -6 is still going strong. I even painted the airplane using that compressor.

And why do I laugh at the 5 hp figure? 'Cause this compressor runs on a 15A circuit, which makes it a 1.5-2 hp unit. Does it pull 5 hp worth of power briefly on start-up? Yep. That's how they used to measure HP - peak electrical draw, which is a pretty shady way to do it.

Oh, and vertical compressors are neat, but a 20 gallon portable is truly portable, so you can use it in a lot of places - not just your workshop.

My point is that you don't have to spend a fortune on a compressor to get one that provides effective service for a long time.
 
I bought an.......

80 gal. 5 hp. 220 Ingersol Rand, it has bee a piece of junk. Blew the head gasket, can never keep the belt tight. I hate it.
 
DIAMOND..... go to Granger.com and look at item # 3vb60 this is a twin stage 175 psi pump on a 60 gal vert. tank with a single phase motor. Plugs into a dryer outlet (220) sorta. and will provide about 14 cfm at 175 and more at shop (90psi) pressure. Like Mel said, a good compresser will last you a lifetime. I have had my Champion 23 cfm for over 40 years and it has never needed anything but draining the tank and an oil change when I can remember.
 
No oil = too LOUD!!!!

X 2!

Seriously, the oil-less ones aren't just noisy, the quality of the noise is much worse. They're really annoying. Get a belt-drive oil-lubricated compressor. Cost quite a bit more, but for all the hours you'll have to listen to it, well worth it. I have a Montgomery Ward-branded Champion 5 HP 2-stage, 80 gal tank, built in 1973 or so. Got it free, but had to replace the 3-phase motor with a single-phase one. $175 at Harbor Freight. Great unit.

Another tip: install a solenoid valve in place of the tank drain. That way, it's a pushbutton press to drain the water from the tank. You should drain it daily anyway.

Heinrich Gerhardt
Rv-6, flying
 
YEP!

The 5 HP (ha!)
And why do I laugh at the 5 hp figure? 'Cause this compressor runs on a 15A circuit, which makes it a 1.5-2 hp unit. That's how they used to measure HP - peak electrical draw, which is a pretty shady way to do it.

That's exactly why I encourage people to NOT buy a compressor by hp. Buy it by CFM.
 
Mark:
If you're REALLY looking for the answer to that question, go to a local bump shop and talk to one of the painters. Ask him what he uses at home (they all do work at home, as well). We buy tools from places like Harbor Freight and Lowes for one reason -CHEAP PRICES. I've got tools from these guys in my toolbox as well as Craftsman and Snap-On. Absolutely no comparison between professional and hobby tools. If you want to really find out what the best is, talk to the guys that do it for a living, not a hobby. You'll find you can buy a spray gun at HF for under $50. For a high end painter, it's not unusual for his guns to cost more than $300-400 apiece. And he owns more than one. Can you get by with the cheap stuff? Probably. Especially if you're not going to keep on building airplanes.
Terry, CFI
RV-9A N323TP
 
<snip>. We buy tools from places like Harbor Freight and Lowes for one reason -CHEAP PRICES. I've got tools from these guys in my toolbox as well as Craftsman and Snap-On. Absolutely no comparison between professional and hobby tools.<snip>

I agree with this opinion for the most part as I have thrown HF tools in the garbage when they have failed in the first 5 minutes of use! However the Puma compressor listed does not fall into that category


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34887

If you know what you are buying you can get some good deals there. Perhaps 70% of HF stuff is trash and not worth taking home if it was free (since you will have to pay to dump it). The other 30% (I'm being nice) is ok.
 
My compressor could be on Antique Roadshow...

It's a W.W Grainger one-lung unit with a 15 gal tank that my dad bought in 1969 for painting cars in his garage. He gave it to me when he moved to FL in 1996. It's like the Energizer Bunny - it just keeps running and running and ...
It's not that noisy, uses no oil ... and I've put countless hours on it building my 9A. Grainger musta done something right. :D
 
Another tip: install a solenoid valve in place of the tank drain. That way, it's a pushbutton press to drain the water from the tank. You should drain it daily anyway.

Heinrich Gerhardt
Rv-6, flying

Can you give some detail on the parts and technique involved in doing this?
 
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That is what I have. The compressor pump head design is flawed (in my opinion) as it blows the head gasket between the two cylinders. I had IR replace the gasket twice, then have just lived with it since.

Wow, that's not good.
 
I've got that same IR compressor and it's worked beautifully for a couple of years. It served me very well during painting and all the other usual stuff.

Regarding which brand is best, I've come to believe that the name on the machine probably says nothing about who actually made it. I figure the folks in China who make these things just cobble together pump, motor, tank, etc. from many vendors. The retailer who buys it then slaps a sticker on it.
 
I started with a Puma 60 gal. upright compressor because it was affordable at the time. I ran it very hard in my full time machine shop. The first pump got tired after 3 years running everyday. I replaced the pump with another Puma. I think parts are available for Puma's too (Rings read valves gaskets etc.). I would recomend Puma for a low end compressor.

I sold the Puma and installed a 80 Gal. 5 hp. single phase DevAir. http://www.dvsystems.ca/ Awsome compressor!

The pump is huge and turns at a slow RPM so it isn't beating it self to death like the cheap ones do. 1 min 15 secounds to recharge. DevAir is an excellent compressor. I see they have some new models now.
 
Adequate or Excellent?

Your question -- what is the best? -- may not be the question you intended. The best is always going to be an industrial quality compressor that has the capacity in CFM and the size tank you need. Figure out which tools you intend to drive off of the compressor and learn how much air in CFM they need, then get the best bargain you can find that provides what you are looking for. I got a Schulz compressor on sale for $400, and have had zero problems.

If you don't intend to paint with it, you can get adequate compressors from any of the sources you mentioned in the range of $350 - $500. As long as they are oiled, they should do fine for your application. If you intend to do a substantial amount of painting with it, that's another story. People have built RVs with the smallest compressors you can imagine, as well as the largest. You can do a search and find several threads discussing this over the last few years.

If you get a 220V compressor, be sure and figure in the cost of wiring to accommodate the compressor, if you don't already have a 220V outlet.
 
Originally Posted by hgerhardt
Another tip: install a solenoid valve in place of the tank drain. That way, it's a pushbutton press to drain the water from the tank. You should drain it daily anyway.

Heinrich Gerhardt
Rv-6, flying

Can you give some detail on the parts and technique involved in doing this?

================
I have one of these timer-activated valves on my compressor. VERY happy with it.

http://www.ecompressedair.com/drain...pt/tec-11-18-230-vac-230-psi-drain-valve.aspx

Remove the stock drain valve, screw in a 90-deg street-elbow, a nipple sized to your particular installation, and then the solenoid valve. Use more 1/8 pipe to route the discharge wherever you want it to go.

I have mine plugged into the compressor power circuit, so it get's power when I turn on the compressor. Every 45 minutes it gives a half-second purge. I don't have to move any of the junk that's piled around the compressor, crawl under anything, fight with the spiders, or remember to purge it.
 
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If you have lots of cash to spend I would get this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34887

And this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40211


BEFORE I would spend a bunch on a higher output compressor.

The recommendation here is for a compressed air dryer in conjunction with the compressor. How necessary is this? Are these primarily recommended for use in humid climates? How many of you guys use these on your air system?
 
Automatic drain

Anyone have any experience with this automatic compressor drain kit from Harbor Freight?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46960

Yes, I've been using an automatic drain from Harbor Freight for about 10 years. It's older than my empennage kit, and it's still working. I have a 30 gallon [Correction: 26 gallon] horizontal portable tank with a "5hp" 110 volt motor. I bought it at Home Depot and I can't remember the brand name but I don't think it's a Campbell-Hausfeld. I'll check tonight. I do remember it has a red tank. [Edit: It's a "Husky." Probably made by C-H.]:eek: [The compressor is a single stage piston compressor. IOW, it makes noise but not as much as an "oil-less" compressor.]

I learned about the automatic drain from a post here in the forums (or was it the old yahoo group forums Doug used to run?) Anyway, it works great. The drain I have looks just like the one you have linked to. The only change I made was to throw away the dinky plastic tubing and replace it with 1/4" copper tubing. I have [sloping] carbon steel 1/2 inch piping with low point drains which I drain every day that I'm in the shop and have had absolutely no water problems.

Hope this helps.

Don Hull

P.S. If you're an engineer you say "carbon steel" pipe; if you're a pipefitter, you say either "black pipe" or "black iron pipe." Same thing.
 
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If you want a compressor w/ hard core reliability and long life, get one w/ a cast iron head. Check around your area for someone in the compressor business, he may have a good used, industrial type for a good price and you'll probably never have a minutes trouble from it.

Glenn Wilkinson
 
Been using the CH 60 gal upright from Home Depot for 8 years now. Picked it up during "Contractor Days" cheap. If they run a lot they get warm and we'd have water in the lines. After installing black pipe plumbing as shown here: http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf with drops in the lines there's been no shown vapor even from the drop drains let alone at the tool end.

So this black pipe system looks cool, but adds many hundreds of dollars to the overall system. The purpose is similar to the compressed air dryer mentioned earlier in this thread. But is this extra step to dry the air out really necessary? I can see if one does alot of painting, it would be an important addition, but why would a person do this if simply running air tools? Does it significantly extend the life of the tools? Thanks.
 
Water in the lines washes the lube out of the tools, spits on the workpiece, and of course will ruin paint. Whether or not a dryer or a lot of metallic pipe is necessary depends on how humid it is and the flow rate (CFM) of air you're using. Example, running a sandblaster continuously in humid SC in the summer will generate several ounces of water per hour.

The refrigerant-cycle dryer is probably overkill. The metallic pipe is helpful because it lets the air cool and the water condense out so you can acutally drain it (it's going to be saturated vapor coming out of the compressor). I used copper pipe which is less expensive and easier than black iron pipe.
 
Black pipe is about .90/ft. With fittings I ran 70' with 3 drops for under $100 at HD. They cut and thread the pipe for free if you buy it there.
 
A big compressor will not require air dryers if all you're doing is rivetting/drilling. However, for sanders, painting, grinders, you'll need one.
 
I'm new to the aircraft building scene and to this forum, but have a lot of experience with this subject, so here is my two cents for what it's worth. First of all, there have been a lot of good points made in some of the posts here. It is really a matter of what you are planning on using the compressor mainly for that you should consider. If the tools you are operating off of it are of reletively low CFM consumption, (it should say on the package what the tool needs) then you will probably be overbuying what you really need if you go with a huge tank, 2-stage unit. another factor is the noise issue, which is a valad point for sure. I have the advantage of having a seperate storage shed in my backyard that i keep the compressor in and ran a line to the garage, so for me the oil-free compressor I have works great and I dont even hear it. But if you are not so lucky then there are a couple of choices, either put up with the noise, buy a quiet but more expensive unit, or make an enclosure to deaden the sound of that annoying pump. But back to the original point, if you are not using anything rated at more than 5-6 CFM then a smaller compressor for a few hundred bucks will be more than enough. I am in the custom painting business as a side job, so if you plan on doing your own painting someday with a HVLP type gun the get a compressor that will put out at least 10-12 CFM with a large tank (60 gal or bigger), otherwise it will be constantly running trying to keep up with the higher demand. Some brands I have have had good success with for the smaller units are craftsman and ingersol rand. Always drain your tank and get some kind of water filter, especially if you plan on running any kind of painting equipment. Believe me, water flying out of the spray gun along with the overpriced paint you are trying to lay down will really ruin your day...hope this helps, tom
 
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