I'm most of the way through my empennage and I'm still struggling to get my squeezer to to not pull the shop heads as they set. Biasing the tail towards the throat side of the sets seems to help but its not always possible to make that happen because the nose of the yoke inevitably hits the web of whatever is being riveted (see photo).
Normally I would set the rivet with the yoke perpendicular to the spar (as in the photo) but I also tried a two step set process where I'd hold the squeezer as parallel to the spar as I could for half a squeeze (with the yoke to the right), then finish the squeeze with the yoke to the left all in the name of trying to get an axial squeeze. That helped a little, but still not as good as I think it it can be.
I've also played with some rotating motion of the squeezer body as I set to compensate for any yoke flex. Most of my work is with a 3" yoke and I am very deliberate in my process with alignment and trigger work. With a 4" no hole yoke, this behavior gets even worse. I am also using the quick change pins, and these have a very, very small amount of play in them.
I'm really frustrated that after most of the empennage I still don't have that confidence that when I pull the trigger, I'll get a great rivet every time, which is my expectation. Perhaps that expectation is too lofty...
Just tonight working on the left elevator trim tab attachment spar, I had to redo more than 50% of my rivets, some more than once. That kind of efficiency is unacceptable.
Is it worth grinding down the nose of the yoke a little bit to be able to reach deeper?
Normally I would set the rivet with the yoke perpendicular to the spar (as in the photo) but I also tried a two step set process where I'd hold the squeezer as parallel to the spar as I could for half a squeeze (with the yoke to the right), then finish the squeeze with the yoke to the left all in the name of trying to get an axial squeeze. That helped a little, but still not as good as I think it it can be.
I've also played with some rotating motion of the squeezer body as I set to compensate for any yoke flex. Most of my work is with a 3" yoke and I am very deliberate in my process with alignment and trigger work. With a 4" no hole yoke, this behavior gets even worse. I am also using the quick change pins, and these have a very, very small amount of play in them.
I'm really frustrated that after most of the empennage I still don't have that confidence that when I pull the trigger, I'll get a great rivet every time, which is my expectation. Perhaps that expectation is too lofty...
Just tonight working on the left elevator trim tab attachment spar, I had to redo more than 50% of my rivets, some more than once. That kind of efficiency is unacceptable.
Is it worth grinding down the nose of the yoke a little bit to be able to reach deeper?
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