What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Help, wing rivet question

Rob H

Well Known Member
RV12 Page 17-02 steps 4-7 , reference Figure 1
This is for newer RV12's and can be a retrofit for older models. When riveting the W1201A Doubler and bottom inboard wing skin to the wing spar and rib underneath, the most inboard rivet calls for CR3213-4-3. The problem occurs when I pull the rivet, it doesn't grab the flange of the wing rib underneath, the shop end pulls right through. It's happened twice now. I'm wondering if I can drill #40 a small piece of scrap to use like a washer underneath since it pulls right through the #30 hole in the rib flange? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I'm guessing I can't use a LP4-3 because it's not the right spec for strength? Help please!
 
RV12 Page 17-02 steps 4-7 , reference Figure 1
This is for newer RV12's and can be a retrofit for older models. When riveting the W1201A Doubler and bottom inboard wing skin to the wing spar and rib underneath, the most inboard rivet calls for CR3213-4-3. The problem occurs when I pull the rivet, it doesn't grab the flange of the wing rib underneath, the shop end pulls right through. It's happened twice now. I'm wondering if I can drill #40 a small piece of scrap to use like a washer underneath since it pulls right through the #30 hole in the rib flange? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I'm guessing I can't use a LP4-3 because it's not the right spec for strength? Help please!

I just installed the retrofit kit on my older wings. Didn't have any problem with pull through. I'll take a closer look at it tomorrow to see how close I might have been to pull through.

Jim
 
Thanks, Jim. I didn't even know that mine pulled through until I turned the wing over to work on the ther side. After I installed another CR rivet, it looks like there isn't enough grip length on that rivet, whereas a lp4-3 would work fine. I put in an email to the Mothership.
 
Thanks, Jim. I didn't even know that mine pulled through until I turned the wing over to work on the ther side. After I installed another CR rivet, it looks like there isn't enough grip length on that rivet, whereas a lp4-3 would work fine. I put in an email to the Mothership.


Rob.......please post what you hear back.

Thanks, Jim
 
RV12 Page 17-02 steps 4-7 , reference Figure 1
This is for newer RV12's and can be a retrofit for older models. When riveting the W1201A Doubler and bottom inboard wing skin to the wing spar and rib underneath, the most inboard rivet calls for CR3213-4-3. The problem occurs when I pull the rivet, it doesn't grab the flange of the wing rib underneath, the shop end pulls right through. It's happened twice now. I'm wondering if I can drill #40 a small piece of scrap to use like a washer underneath since it pulls right through the #30 hole in the rib flange? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I'm guessing I can't use a LP4-3 because it's not the right spec for strength? Help please!

If you are using the correct rivet, and the hole was not accidentally enlarged during removal of a previously installed rivet, The specified rivet should just barely fit through the hole so making a washer with a #40 hole should be of no benefit (the rivet fits a #30 not #40 hole).
Is it possible that when you final drilled the 8 holes for the BSPQ rivets you did the most inboard one also? If so, the Cherry rivet wont work.
 
Rob.......I just checked and mine are nice and tight. I looked at the shop head with a mirror and can see where they've expanded slightly.

As Scott mentioned........if the inboard hole was inadvertently drilled #22 like the other 8 that were called out for #22, that would account for the problem.

Jim
 
Ok guys, I did not drill it out to #22. And Scott is correct that a #40 would not work. Van's email said it would be okay to use a CR rivet with a little bit longer grip length. So I'm going to try a 4-4 instead of the 4-3. I primed the doubler, skin, and rib, so maybe that added just enough thickness that the rivet wasn't getting a good grip. I appreciate the help and thanks for checking yours, Jim.
 
I'm using a pneumatic puller from Cleaveland tools. I think by priming my parts, the grip length of the called out rivet wasn't quite sufficient.
 
Back
Top