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Old 03-14-2018, 11:34 AM
Brett H Brett H is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Columbus, Indiana
Posts: 27
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To restate the issue so that we are all on the same page, in the process of fitting my canopy frame to the fuselage I discovered that the canopy struts were rubbing the canopy frame arms as the canopy is being closed.

I am using the new steel struts and the new bushings that are to be used with the steel struts. The new bushings can be identified from the old bushings is that the transition between the two outside diameters is a conical taper rather than a sharp transition.

The rubbing of the canopy struts has two impacts. First, it changes fit / location of the rear end of the canopy frame with the fuselage. Second, this rubbing can felt / heard when the canopy is almost closed and it has rubbed the paint off of almost all of the full length of the canopy strut body where it rubs the canopy frame arm. This lack of clearance is also demonstrated by the inability to get a piece of paper between the body of the canopy strut and canopy strut arm.

Van’s has recommended the following three potential corrections (i.e. paraphrased):
1.) Modify the flange by bending it inward to provide additional clearance
2.) Reduce edge and/or weld by filing, grinding, sanding, buffing and so on,
3.) Add the washer height needed under the two bushings. The “reduced area” of the washer is not a concern.

Installing a standard washer (i.e. 1/16 inch thick) under both bushings to space the canopy strut outboard has improved but not resolved the rubbing.

My intention is to use a combination of filing and washer height to achieve the clearance. Namely, using the 1/16 inch washer thickness, I will attempt to get the needed clearance by filing. If this leads me needing to remove more of the weld than I am comfortable with, I will add to the washer thickness.

If you would like, I can send pictures.

Brett H
Columbus, IN
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