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Old 07-10-2018, 08:30 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TASEsq View Post
hi all,

Questions:
1. What is the reason behind doing the aft 8 rivets first, then going back on the next step to do the rest? I can't see any reason for this unless i am missing something obvious?

2. I can't find anywhere that it later calls out to rivet the last rivet on the left hand side - so i am assuming that i should do it in Step 5 of 7-10 along with all the other rivets in that line.

3. It calls out that we may have to peel apart the trailing edge to access the aft 2 rivets of the attach strip - surely the aft rivet is even harder to set here? (may need a no hole squeezer yoke, or use a MK319BS?).

Thank you!
I remember going through these same questions when I built (then scrapped) my rudder. I was hoping to avoid this difficult area when I get to building my second rudder by doing things out of sequence from the plans.

I eventually realized the plans are correct. Van's thought this one through pretty well. I don't see any option to what's presented.

Here's the reason why. The right skin, bottom rib (R-00904B-1) and attach strip (R-00918) can be riveted together because there is nothing in the build sequence that would hide other locations.

The left side is a different story. The bottom rib that eventually gets riveted to the right skin (R-00904A-1) is part of the front spar and rudder horn assembly you create on page 7-05. Later on page 7-09 you join the two skins together by riveting the shear clips to stringers without the front spar assembly in place. Then on page 7-10 you place the front spar in position and rivet it to the shear clips and bottom rib. It's at this time you rivet the skin, attach strip and bottom rib together. There's just no reasonable way to get around this sequence I could find.

It's a tight area for those last two rivets, but it's possible. I used wood wedges and popsicle sticks to separate the skins for enough room to get clearance for my squeezer yolk. I used a thin nose yolk from Cleaveland Tool that made it easier.
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Art Jackson
RV-14A Kit#140433, N393AJ Reserved
Completed: Vertical Stab/Horizontal Stab
Scrapped: Rudder
Working on: Empennage (Elevator)
Construction log - mykitlog.com/ajackson
Dues paid on 10 October 2018
Member of EAA Chapter 92 (KCNO)
Pet peeve: "Lose" is the opposite of "find". "Loose" means "not tight".

Last edited by StressedOut : 07-10-2018 at 08:35 PM.
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