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Nose Gear Hex Screw

Auburntsts

Well Known Member
Anyone know the hex size for the nose gear hex screws --you know the ones that hold on the spacer blocks? For some reason 3/8" is in my head but I want order another hex socket and can't remember for sure.
 
According to plans, 3/8 X24 by 1 3/4". I went to Fastenal and ordered chrome bolts that protrude about 1/16 out of the wheel pant' This eliminates any chance of someone catching the wheel pant and not the bolt when towing.
 
According to plans, 3/8 X24 by 1 3/4". I went to Fastenal and ordered chrome bolts that protrude about 1/16 out of the wheel pant' This eliminates any chance of someone catching the wheel pant and not the bolt when towing.

So stupid question--does it take a 3/8" Hex wrench? I dont need the bolt, just the right hex size.
 
suggestion on bolt length...

I found the supplied bolt to be short and preferred to use a stainless version(McMaster Carr). This area sees a lot of moisture when operating outside the hanger. I was worried about how little the stock bolt threaded in, did not fit the FAA regs of showing some threads after going through the fork. I had a friend get a little frisky with the tow bar (backing up a RV-10 can be a new experience, the wheel/tow bar can have a mind of its own), and with the stock bolts and lock washer, it was not enough to hold, just pulled the bolt out. The fix, which I actually think is a good start as well, I installed heli-coil inserts. Clearly not a flight safety issue, just a pain in the .... and a land maneuvering issue...:rolleyes: A bit off track from want size hex-wrench to use, but thought the look ahead might be of interest.
 
I was worried about how little the stock bolt threaded in, did not fit the FAA regs of showing some threads after going through the fork.

There is no FAA reg for thread exposure on a bolt installation like this.
The requirement for at least one exposed thread is for self locking fasteners (such as AN365 nylock nuts) to assure that the self lock feature functions properly.

I have not heard of any problems with this when done per plans, but I could see how the thread strength could be compromised if the caps screws were over torqued.
 
Another tweak...

The outside diameter of the hex bolt head is smaller than the inside diameter of the bogie bar attach lugs. This allows the lugs to move around a bit when maneuvering the nose wheel and can chip the paint on the wheel pant if there's a small clearance hole. I bonded a short length of steel tubing to the bolt head so it's a closer fit with the bogi bar and also extends a little past the bolt head to be flush with the wheel pant. Now the bogi bar fits nicely with little play and no contact with the pant.
 
The bolts for my -7A were about 1/2" longer than needed so I put some flat washers under the head, which fit the Bogie bar better.
 
The outside diameter of the hex bolt head is smaller than the inside diameter of the bogie bar attach lugs. This allows the lugs to move around a bit when maneuvering the nose wheel and can chip the paint on the wheel pant if there's a small clearance hole. I bonded a short length of steel tubing to the bolt head so it's a closer fit with the bogi bar and also extends a little past the bolt head to be flush with the wheel pant. Now the bogi bar fits nicely with little play and no contact with the pant.

I have not experienced this in over 2 years of flying. My Bogi bar fits well without any play and my setup is stock.
 
bolt length per instructions...

Agreed Scott there is no FAA reg, but on the other hand, why not use all the strength that soft aluminum fork can provide? There is ample room on the backside of the fork from the tire when threads make it through. I choose using a thin-washer and a split lock washer (not per plans), the latter just a personal preference in this type of application. With the thin flat washer/split lock washer the stock bolt was short and I should have been pro-active in replacing, instead I did so in the repair mode, my bad.:rolleyes:
Cheers, Mike
 
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