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Attaching RV-8 leading edges

Mark Jackson

Active Member
Patron
I started trying to rivet the completed leading edges to the wing spar. Complete debacle. I used an offset head on the rivet gun (see pic). Inside, held the bucking bar against the rivet as per the pic below. The first set were okay not great but on the second set where I really had to reach in, they were all horrible. Drilled out all five. I have searched the threads and there really isn't very much on this.

Using AN470D4-5 as per the plans. Same bucking bar and rivet gun as always.

Is there some secret trick to this I don't know.

Rivet gun position:

IMG_2248.jpg


Bucking bar position:

IMG_2250.jpg


Result:

IMG_2246.jpg


IMG_2245.jpg
 
Secret

I started trying to rivet the completed leading edges to the wing spar. Complete debacle. I used an offset head on the rivet gun (see pic). Inside, held the bucking bar against the rivet as per the pic below. The first set were okay not great but on the second set where I really had to reach in, they were all horrible. Drilled out all five. I have searched the threads and there really isn't very much on this.

Using AN470D4-5 as per the plans. Same bucking bar and rivet gun as always.

Is there some secret trick to this I don't know.

I don't know any secret but that's exactly why I called Vans and asked about pulled rivets. I didn't want to cause damage. LP4-3 and LP4-4 was the recommendation.
 
I suggest wrong rivet gun, wrong rivet set, and wrong bucking bar.

Try a 2X gun and a long but straight set - at around 45 PSIG. You want a palm type bucking bar that you can "feel" when properly positioned on the rivet.

Don't forget to add the 2 or 3 layers of masking tape to the rivet set. Replace the tape after 3-4 rivets.

Carl
 
I did my first wing vertical on the jig like your pictures. I had trouble getting these rivets set. The second wing I did horizontal with the same rivet gun, set, and bucking bar. For some reason working horizontally I was able to drive them with ease compared to the cursing required to drive them vertically. I hope this helps.
 
Okay. I took apart the air hose, inserted all the regulators I use for HVLP painting so I was getting exactly 40 psi at the rivet gun.

Then I used the angled rivet driver:

IMG_2254.jpg


Much much better results. Not perfect but acceptable.

IMG_2251.jpg


I am going to call Van's tomorrow to get the specs for blind rivets for two of the ribs that would require completely blind bucking.
 
RE: Blind rivets

What rivet puller will fit in there? The one I have is too thick and, with main ribs in place, won't put the heads down flat.
 
I read somewhere that it was possible to shoot all the rivets from the front side of the spar so I tried it and succeeded. I had to use a remote regulator and on occasion insert the gun and the the air hose from a different hole but I think it was easier than shooting them from the back side so close to the aft ribs. My arms are not that big and if they were any bigger it would have been impossible. It seems that this area could have had some minor design changes to make everything a lot easier, for one, facing the outboard and inboard end rib flanges the other way so that they could be put on last.
 
I had to modify my double offset by heating, re-bending it, and grinding a little off one side to get the 'cup' to set correctly on the rivet.
 
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