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Aileron pushrod

Wyzepilot

Active Member
Good afternoon gentlemen,

I'm having difficulty inserting the threaded rod end into the aileron pushrod to match drill. It just too tight, and I haven't even primed it yet. Did anyone else experience the same thing and what's the best way to deal with it? I did debur the inside of the pushrod after I cut it and I'm sure that it's not getting caught up. Thanks!

Dave
 
I don't recall having any particular issues with this, but it's been a while. I'd just run a scotch brite pad inside the tube a bit to "open" it up and maybe squirt a tiny bit of some lubricant inside the tube and on the rod end.
 
Thanks so much for the quick replies. I just want to make sure that we are talking about the same part. It's the steel 1/2" diameter rod where a threaded end gets inserted. It's not the aluminum torque tube.

Dave
 
Thanks so much for the quick replies. I just want to make sure that we are talking about the same part. It's the steel 1/2" diameter rod where a threaded end gets inserted. It's not the aluminum torque tube.

Dave

Yep , that was my understanding.
 
I had the same problem on a couple of the rod ends (not all).

With the help of a friend, we chucked the eye insert to a lathe and took off a minimal amount on the OD to perfectly match the ID of the rod.
This seemed like a better approach (at the time) since there was more meat on the bone of the eye insert.
 
I had the same problem on the RV-14 (same parts). On some of the ends, but not all I ended up with sandpaper on a dowel to smooth out the insides and even after that needed to use a hammer to gently encourage them in.

I purchased a steel rod that I could slide in the other side to tap out the piece for deburring.

I became very experienced at this of course, because I had to remake the part once after messing up the holes the first time around :(
 
Don't lube the tube...

You are supposed to prime the inside of the tubes. Don't lube them, the primer won't stick...
 
You are supposed to prime the inside of the tubes. Don't lube them, the primer won't stick...

It's not a big deal. I'm talking about a little in the overlap area of rod end. It's easy to clean up and if it's a tight fit you'll have to remove any primer to get the rod end back in any way.
 
Quick update... I smoothed out the inside of the rod the best I could with a scotchbrite pad. Then I inserted the threaded end in my drill press and used that to lightly sand then scotchbrite till smoothe the end that is inserted into the rod. A very small amount of grease (which I will be sure to clean out before I prime) and several light taps of the hammer and presto it's in. Once again thank you guys for all of our help. I wouldn't be past the vertical stab if it wasn't for this web site.

Dave
 
Thanks for this thread, Dave.

Yesterday I was trying to get the threaded rods into the aileron pushrod and having a lot of trouble making them fit without having to pound them in with a rubber mallet.
I did run a sanding wheel on my dremel on the inside of the tube, and it started to help, but still can't get the rod ends in past the first hole.

Maybe I'll try some scotchbrite pad on the inside and keep at it until I can get them in there.
 
priming the inside of tubes...and fit

I am little surprised with the fit issues, never saw this so far with two builds. Not sure how the cuts are being made to length, this can roll the edge over etc....nevertheless, it is what it is for your fit, I am not doubting you are seeing real fit issues. I can say what I do for the inside of torque tubes, is to use a spray can of zinc chromate primer, and keep it very thin, really "fogging" the inside more than trying to deliver a paint coating of x mil thick. At the ends I wipe clean with acetone, easily removes primer (spray cans are not an epoxy), when assembling (after drilling & deburring) and ready to rivet I spray again and assemble while still wet, if anything, the paint is now a anti-corrosion adhesive and then rivet per call out. I am big believer of chromate-based primers (non-epoxy) inside tubes because the chromate will "migrate" and protect the entire tube surface for a long long time. I personally do not like chromates for a lot of reasons, but the anti-corrosion power is second to none and used correctly, are quite safe.
 
I also had to sand down the rod ends slightly by chucking in a drill. It didn't take much to get a proper fit.
 
I am little surprised with the fit issues, never saw this so far with two builds. Not sure how the cuts are being made to length, this can roll the edge over etc....nevertheless, it is what it is for your fit, I am not doubting you are seeing real fit issues. I can say what I do for the inside of torque tubes, is to use a spray can of zinc chromate primer, and keep it very thin, really "fogging" the inside more than trying to deliver a paint coating of x mil thick. At the ends I wipe clean with acetone, easily removes primer (spray cans are not an epoxy), when assembling (after drilling & deburring) and ready to rivet I spray again and assemble while still wet, if anything, the paint is now a anti-corrosion adhesive and then rivet per call out. I am big believer of chromate-based primers (non-epoxy) inside tubes because the chromate will "migrate" and protect the entire tube surface for a long long time. I personally do not like chromates for a lot of reasons, but the anti-corrosion power is second to none and used correctly, are quite safe.

I had fit issues before priming on the uncut end as well as the cut end.
A light sanding with a Dremel tool wheel seemed to solve the issue for me.
 
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