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RV-7/7a Plan Gottcha's

Installing IO-360? Dont touch that firewall!

When you get to the point of drilling holes through your firewall you want to get a copy of OP32 which is an optional plans page for RV7. The default instructions will have you drill holes for a fuel pump and gascolator for a carbureted engine. The holes for the injected fuel system are in a different spot. The transducer manifold (VA168) also has some rivet holes in F-745 that are going to modified and may be easier while you're working on that forward structure. OP32 is available on the plans CD if you've got that. Otherwise, you may want to talk to Vans.
 
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R DWG 7, R-710 Horn Brace Detail View

Be very careful when trimming to the middle of the whole like the plans tell you. Very likely going to cause an Edge distance issue. I would advice to cut very conservative here to the top of the whole and only trim until it fits even if it leaves a "half whole" in the center.

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Be very careful when trimming to the middle of the whole like the plans tell you. Very likely going to cause an Edge distance issue. I would advice to cut very conservative here to the top of the whole and only trim until it fits even if it leaves a "half whole" in the center.

download

Newbies, print and attach this to your instructions. I learned not to trust the drawings from this.
 
R DWG 7, Rudder Counterbalance weight led

Just wanted to say this because I didn't know / think about it while I was trying to make my rudder counterbalance weight fit. I ended up cutting some material off, but another member here pointed out that the led is really soft and may just be reshaped with anything round without loosing material. I here is an example using a key.

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Riveting leading edge to spar solution

On the RV-7, the plans call for riveting the leading edge to the spar AFTER the main ribs have been riveted to both spars. The problem is, these AN470 rivets are difficult to set because the head is too close to the web of the main rib...even using an offset set. From what I have gathered, most folks get around this by using blind rivets (Van's approved method).

I figured out a much better/easier way to do it without having to use blind rivets. Here's what we did today on my second wing...it was so easy, and it turned out perfect!!:

1. When the instructions tell you to rivet the main ribs to both spars, you can do so....EXCEPT for the ones directly behind/underneath the leading edge. Just cleco these to the main spar (6 of them). It's ok to rivet them all to the rear spar

2. After building the leading edge and ready to install, place it on the spar and cleco in place. Start at one end of the leading edge and un-cleco the main rib directly below it. Bend it out of the way enough to give yourself room for the rivet gun. Rivet the leading edge rib to the main spar. When you are done, cleco the main rib back in place and move to the next leading edge rib. Repeat this until all 6 leading edge ribs are riveted to the main spar.

3. Now you can now go back and rivet the 6 outboard main ribs to the main spar. You will probably have to use the offset, but they are easily reachable.

Hope this helps.
 
Beringer brake system

This one is for anyone installing the Beringer brake system.
The brake lines are braided. Fittings are straight 45 degree flare and banjo style. Banjo fittings have a slight angle which comes in handy.the system comes with Master cylinders, ALIR (anti-lock) valve and parking garage brake. I won't get into how or where things should be mounted. Beringer does not provide a parking brake mount. The reservoirs have a small flange for mounting. This is intended as tips for the install.
The ALIR is quite long and if mounted with the included mount, is very close to the firewall recess. Check before installing it. I chose to leave it out and save two lines, some complexity and extra weight. 12 ounces.
The master cylinders are adjustable. Install the extenders then screw the rod ends all the way in. I used five turns out on either end. There's plenty left to adjust the pedal location. Final hole in the brake pedals was 3/4" from the bottom. I drilled one with a pilot hole then used it to match drill the others, then enlarged to final dimension. The springs get close so use two washers in between pedal and rod bearing. It's shown on the RV10 install.
Here's a tip on making the lines.
Wrap the line with a piece of Gorilla tape. It helps control the fraying. Cut the end clean with a pair of heavy pliers like Kleins. Remove the tape. Carefully slip the threaded ferrule over the line. Use a small screwdriver to spread the braid open in a cone shape about 1/4" back. Don't unbraid it. Just open it enough to get the "olive" on the tube. Place the olive on the inner tube and press against a hard surface till it bottoms. Use a tiny probe to feel the inner tube. It should be up against the top of the olive. Use the cutters to snip the excess braid back maybe 1/32" or so. It helps later. Slide the ferrule up. Lube the threads of the banjo. Insert and screw it in hand tight. Clamp it between wood blocks in a vice and use tubing wrench to tighten couple turns. Finish off with the torque wrench. Note the tubing rotates. This is a big deal.
To complete the line, install the partial line. The angle is important and the tubing rotates so think this through. Place the other banjo in the fitting where the opposite end will be installed and get a good measurement for the line. Wrap a piece of tape, mark the cut line and the direction of the banjo angle . Remove the line. Cut the line.
Repeat the steps to install the second fitting but don't torque it. You only get one shot at it.
Install the line and triple check the fittings are oriented correct. Mark the first end so you can't accidently torque it again and mess up the orientation. Mark the second end carefully. Move to the vice and torque while watching the mark. Stop short and reinstall it. Back to the vice for final torque and a little prayer it ends up perfect. Repeat another six or eight times for the other lines.
I chose to go with one piece lines from the parking brake to the calipers so I snaked the line in and cut it a foot or two long then reinstalled it. The last two fittings at the caliper end will have to be done on the plane. Best of luck.
 
Electric Aileron Trim

If you're planning to install the Electric Aileron Trim system, pull the destructions before installing nutplates for the floors, closing up floors or assembling control columns. There's two nutplates you don't need it. The center two ribs. The trim system mount gets the two nutplates. The servo is difficult to drill and mount but not to bad with floors removed. Finally, there's two clips that get bolted to the control columns so save yourself, tearing them apart like I did just to add those two little clips.
 
Larry,

I remember doing the same about a year ago. I'm not sure roll trim is worth the time it takes to assemble and install (2-3 days) but it's there now!
 
Firewall DWG 19

This one is not really a gotcha as much as just something I wish I'd been aware of at the time. Would have saved time and a small bit of frustration at having to un-do and re-do work

When working on your firewall at the start of your fuselage kit, DWG 19 is the reference. (Page 8-1 in the manual). If you follow it in detail, you'll end up setting several rivets that you will later have to come back and drill out. Also, there are a couple of rivets you'll need to add later where you'd like to be able to dimple the firewall but won't be able to. Instead you'll have to countersink.

Again, not a show-stopper, but something where a little hears-up would have been very nice.

Which rivets? Those for attaching the battery box, the two relays and the brake reservoir. Here's where to look for specifics:

See either DWG 31 or 31A (tail/nose dragger depending) for the battery mount. It makes sense to go ahead and install the nutplates when you are riveting the firewall.

See DWG 36 or 36A for the brake reservoir.

See OP 32 if you are planning a fuel injected engine. It requires a different doubles in a different location that the carb setup shown on DWG 19. (Mentioned by a previous poster but I thought I'd include it here.)

Hope this helps..
-Ivan
 
See DWG 36 or 36A for the brake reservoir.

See OP 32 if you are planning a fuel injected engine. It requires a different doubles in a different location that the carb setup shown on DWG 19. (Mentioned by a previous poster but I thought I'd include it here.)

Hope this helps..
-Ivan

If installing the fuel pump/filter on the inside, just forward of the selector valve, the firewall doubler won't be needed as depicted in OP 32.

For the brake reservoir, I only drilled out one existing rivet, if I recall. I don't think the spacing of the reservoir holes is the same as the rivet spacing.
 
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If installing the fuel pump/filter on the inside, just forward of the selector valve, the firewall doubler won't be needed as depicted in OP 32.

For the brake reservoir, I only drilled out one existing rivet, if I recall. I don't think the spacing of the reservoir holes is not the same as the rivet spacing.

Ray-

I may have misspoke, but I think is is the firewall doubler shown on DWG 19 that you don't need if you're installing the fuel injection high pressure inside pump. I'm referring to the F-601Z Aux Fuel Pump Doubler shown in the lower right hand corner of DWG 19.

The doubler shown on Op 32, if I am reading the plans right, is needed even with the FI pump to strengthen the firewall where the fuel line passes through.

If I'm understanding this wrong (it's happened, let me tell you!), please set me straight..

r/
Ivan
 
Riveting order on elevators. E-703 and E-704 to E-702

I have attached a picture with a red arrow. The plans have you rivet E-704 and E-703 together before attaching to the elevator spar. However, when you go to rivet these ribs to the elevator spar you can't get most squeezers on these two rivets and they are difficult to buck as you need to use an offset tool. You can avoid this problem if you FIRST rivet E-704 to the spar and then rivet E-703 rib to E-704.

ortqop.jpg
 
R-911 Rudder Bottom Fairing for RV7

This is for the RV7 only. When you are fitting your R-911, make sure you take the tail wheel spring into account. The diagram shows a 3/16" distance between the spring and fairing. I dont think this can be accurate. When the tail is on the ground it is going to flex some. I have 3/8" on mine and I'm comfortable with that. I have seen other posters here that have as much as 3/4".
 
Wing Install - RV-7 Spar bolts

DWG 11 clearly shows that the lower bolts have washers under the aft heads, and upper bolts get a washer under the nut on the forward side. But - the lower bolts have a gusset under the nuts. Thickness of the washer and nut it is 1/8". Since the all bolts are the same length, an additional washer will be needed or the nut will bottom out on the bolt shoulder before clamping on the upper bolts.

"Proof" This picture clearly shows an exposed bolt and a tight bolt with nut and two standard washers. I will reconfigure with one washer on each end.

Get some extra washers, and make a note on your drawing to put washers under the heads of all the main spar bolts. You will need them. (edit)

BTW - I machined two progressive sizes of burnish pins to burnish/align the thinner webs. There were lubed and driven all holes and resulted in removable bolts that were assembled with no chilling.

-IRUHR4-tVuyRDvC3pNE9gR7yzwlDXPyMRNA3FdNeWlIbSX2cvNLjEp1L-D82_Qd7JQFwx4H_J0luUJvUCtWNILBTEqkk0pxPlNx0CdIXWKej5Z70Zaud1AOGtcm4M2n7p9NJk7aemzIZHc3lvDSHnWWKzwACv8ojY3TtZlNqHomXW0JyKYx7QBPVrwAizj95LiZFAVXrjxBoOtzHybSj6QDRf0hdY5t0pR7WfYarYNIrgq700TbN3icXqIyhJMkmx97jcBgbwG7TKvHITtqXQoabvdWpHKUcJYOXeRWGXfeiqO8HUTcckIjJ8TvvbH59eXgKwrRkjfXyYdSufX-mbJTYp4qcPcZlUenbZwN7uFsxLp8pejUx4p1N8ecvmB6ffbGSmgJ-CBEKcpfF13Yw_pcAK5j2rUJctJ1f3bfnqenS8vbpt0yKfdT-dNC4PWco0Kf4DUK1TdVrDh4HVIIf9SAUUSFOw7fpbl0JvZXuccb_tDsby1wSFVI4phN7eUJ999bkmmyzD99UDWE96CprOTIsdplxPHB-RpH8cA2SEzImPFZJccDCSIQFflER5XR2PAje4UAjYgv9kTgJzFpnxSZKAx5_RPAyXFQs9P1BeaStQeUpctIYV6Gu4T8l_aZtE_YALubiLR5p_C6KD3eWOUApYPq_syodxw=w800-no
 
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Hi Bill. Good find. This happens a lot throughout the build, so it's handy to have an assortment of regular and thin washers in hand and verify bolt length requirements are satisfied before taking to final torque. That said, there is a note in this case at the top of the Front Wing Spar Attach Detail in DWG 11 that says ad AN960-716 and AN960-416 washers as required to the top bolts.
Tom.
 
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Mounting VS, DWG 27A

Don't follow the VS-702 Trim Detail. 5/8" is way too much. I didn't even cut that much and missed the edge distance. Now I get to fabricate a new F-781 Vertical Stab Attach Plate.Grrrr.
Start with 1/4" or less. Better still, clamp the VS in place. Not exact but pretty close to where it belongs. set the spar as close to vertical as safe. Clamp it but not super tight. Just trying to get a ball park. Mark the cut line based on where the forward spar lands in relation to the top of the HS. That's a good starting point. Cut short of that line then fine tune after it is mounted exactly where it belongs. Better to install a few extra times than make a new part.
Edit. 01/16/18
I fabricated a new F781, 1/4" longer. This fixed the hole edge distance problem at the bottom of the forward spar. My VS was happiest positioned with the spar aft of the F781 plate. An additional .032" shim brought everything into perfect alignment. Here's a few tips on the process.
I match drilled the shim to F781 to #40 but parts were difficult to keep positioned so I used the fat rivet technique. F781 and the shim were clekoed together then long #3 rivet was placed in a hole, parts set on a back rivet plate and the rivet smacked with a hammer to swell it. Four fat rivets hold the two parts in alignment while the VS is positioned and clamped.
For aft alignment, I used a few fishing weights and very light fishing line. The weight at the top is cone shaped and holds the string centered in the top hinge bracket hole. The string is threaded through the middle and bottom hinge bracket then tied to weights like a plumb line.
Adjust per Vans dimensions port and starboard then adjust the forward height till the string falls perfectly centered. Your mileage may vary.
 
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Cabin Fuel yank Vent Lines, DWG 36, DWG 24

Pay close attention to the cabin components when fabricating the Fuel Tank Vent Lines inside the fuse. The line makes a jiggle so it doesn't interfere with F7105B-R&L Outboard Sub Panels. I just spent a bunch of time removing them and fabricating new ones. Make them and leave them out or loose so the rivets on the top skin can be reached to buck.
 
Pay close attention to the cabin components when fabricating the Fuel Tank Vent Lines inside the fuse. The line makes a jiggle so it doesn't interfere with F7105B-R&L Outboard Sub Panels. I just spent a bunch of time removing them and fabricating new ones. Make them and leave them out or loose so the rivets on the top skin can be reached to buck.

Another option is to use the Rocket style (source of name unk) vents inside the wing root. Mine were both done in hours vs days. They usually only have 3 loops. I got carried away with this one :D

BeszwBOl.jpg
 
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F7108A Center Forward Fuselage Rib, DWG 24

There's a "Gotcha" on the cabin substructure. Maybe common to both Slider and tipper but for sure on the slider. I assume it is because the Firewall is common to both and the substructure is different.

Here's how it goes.
Manual says, cleko and drill F7109 Plate to F7108B Angle and F7108A Center Forward Fuselage Rib. No way to follow the manual here. It says to cleko the rib to the Firewall, but there are no holes in either. It also says to drill the F7108B Angle to F7108A Center Forward Fuse Rib, but the angle has to fit perfectly to the firewall and F601L Stiffener or the skin holes won't match the rib. The best solution is to assemble all the parts with the skin first. This pulls everything into the exact location.
First clamp the center rib forward flange to the left forward flange and duplicate the holes. Now the rib has holes for the Firewall. Cleko the ribs and subpanels but leave F7108B Angle out for now. Cleko the skin.

There's a trick to getting the skin in place. Start in the center. Work out in all directions with 100% clekos. When you get to the curve by the side skin, start at the forward #30 holes and work aft one hole at a time with 100% clekos. Leave it overnight. Back to the substructure...

Draw a 1/4" edge distance line on F7108B Angle. The Aft two holes are 3/16" so draw a line 3/8" edge distance line on the aft end for those two holes. Slide the F7108B Angle in place. Position F7108B Angle on F7108A Rib and mark one forward and one aft hole. Remove it and look at the edge distances. Adjust as needed so the holes fall within edge distance. I had to make an .063" shim between F7108B Angle and F601L Stiffener then file the slot in F7105A Rib. Once all the holes are good, clamp the angle to the rib and mark the hole through the F7108B Angle on F601L Stiffener. Disassemble. Match drill the angle and remove. Drill the hole in F601L Stiffener. Reassemble. Now all the parts are in position and the firewall can be match drilled through the rib or marked and drilled later with a super sharp drill bit. Don't mess with the hole in the top corner of the angle. Since this matches the other rib, just cleko the other rib to the forward side of the firewall, mark, remove and drill it from the front.
 
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Flap Hinge

I failed to measure the exact length for the flap hinge and went by the plans. 56" was too short and doesn't allow enough edge distance. Doh.
 
Setting Aileron Position using Tooling Holes

I set my aileron using the tooling holes in the rib aft of spar. The ailerons were off. I went through resetting them based on in flight and matching to the flaps. Vans tech whacked my pee-pee and said in no uncertain terms to use the fixture and set to the tooling holes, not to other surfaces. So I went back to recheck and this is what I found.

The tooling holes don't all align. I would suggest you use a string or a laser level when doing this procedure and not rely on just two holes and a straight edge. It could be off.

As it turned out, it was "perfect" with the far aft and far forward holes, but as you can see some holes are not aligned.

Just be aware of this when performing the procedure.

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C-668, DWG42

I'm going to try and point out the issues on the 7, slider as I go.
Fabricating C-668 spacers, note they all all different. Forward left, forward right, aft left and aft right. The parts are cut different left and right even though the drawing shows a pair (forward & aft). Left and right are mirror image. Label them.

Roll bar. Learned a lesson. I was trying to squeeze it to narrow the bar. When the web clamp was released the bar snapped open and actually got wider. Going to buy a come along tomorrow so I can gently release the tension.
 
As it turned out, it was "perfect" with the far aft and far forward holes, but as you can see some holes are not aligned.

Sure, because two points *define* a line... :)

BTW, your image shows your laser going through the wrong two holes, I believe. See DWG 12A for the ones you should be using...
 
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Here's a gotcha I just learned the hard way:

When drilling the F-772B-R&L floor stiffeners to the F-772 forward bottom skin, the plans have you to draw center lines on the angle to help you align them with the pre-punched holes in the skin. This works for the two outboard stiffeners, but if you do it that way for the two inboard stiffeners you may end up with a large gap between the stiffeners and the F-601J angle that you need to attach them to:

IMG_1366-M.jpg


Instead, try this:

  1. Position the F-772B stiffener against the bottom skin
  2. Clamp the stiffener horizontally to the F-601J angle and the F-783B cover support rib
  3. Stick a sharpie through a few of the holes in the bottom skin, including the forward-most and aft-most holes
  4. Remove the sitffeners and verify the holes will not bust edge distance
  5. Re-clamp the stiffeners and drill

You may also have to cut a small relief notch in the top-forward part of the stiffeners in order to clear the vertical firewall angle. Here's what mine look like after using the above method:

IMG_1378-M.jpg
 
F7108C Angle, DWG 24, Slider

Here's one to remember.
A tiny piece, F7108C Angle on DWG 24. Don't forget to drill and install it. It ties F7105A Center Sub Panel, F7109 Plate, F7108 Forward Fuselage Rib, F7108B Angle together.
I recommend doing it with F7106 Top Skin clekoed with a few in place to make sure the holes stay in alignment.
Thankfully I caught it before the top skin was riveted in place or three rivets would have been much more difficult to remove!:eek:
 
Spacer, Slider Construction, DWG43, Section F-F

Not a big "Gotcha" but worth mentioning.
When the C657 Canopy Tracks get bolted in place there is a gap between the F721B Aft Canopy Deck and F757S Plate on the Aft two screws. The plabs show a spacer or shim. It's called out as a small piece but I found it much easier to fabricate a shim to span both holes. I cut a piece off a section of 1/8" angle because it already had a radius matching the Aft Deck. I just slid it in from the forward end.
 
C791 Canopy Skirt Brace, DWG 41

Don't drill the gazzillion holes in the two C791 Canopy Skirt Braces till you have the C660 Canopy Skirt and C759 Inside Canopy Skirt positioned and drilled to the WD640 Canopy Frame.
If you plan Sikaflex, you need the C759 in position or at least drilled and ready so it can be riveted and Sikaflexed. Good news is the hole pattern seems ok for C660/C759. It fit perfect.
The problem is C791 Canopy Skirt Brace has to snake around the WD640 Canopy Frame and somehow match up to the holes in C660 Canopy Skirt. Most likely it won't line up with predrilled holes. It fits better if you take a blank and get a nice fit with the WD640 Canopy Frame, drill the frame then match drill all the holes to the C660 Canopy Skirt. Then lay out the lightening holes and edge relief cuts so they are spaced correctly.
I match drilled those two pieces and spent a day cutting all the holes only to find it won't go in without major modification. Two new ones ordered.
Of course, I could be in Wonderland looking for a Yellow Brick Road. YMMV. Maybe I can actually get to the canopy someday. :D
 
Flap install

Before installing the flap actuator weldment for good, be sure to install the bolt too if you want it oriented in the direction depicted on DWG 33 View C-C (threads on the inside). There is not enough clearance between the fuselage side and weldment otherwise once the weldment is installed.

This has been discussed before:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=109140


Doug
RV-7 Finishing up!
 
Temporary wing mounting

Having problems inserting wing spar into fuselage center section. Seems to be a body fit of spar width to fuselage center section plus wing skin to fuselage skin interference
 
Wing fit

Having problems inserting wing spar into fuselage center section. Seems to be a body fit of spar width to fuselage center section plus wing skin to fuselage skin interference

Gavin
Welcome. I think. First post is a wing fit problem? Are you having trouble or reporting a "Gotcha" for others?
 
Roll Bar Bolts

I'm suprised you couldn't hear my cursing all the way from Estes Park.
The Aft bolt (1/4") on each side of the 7 roll bar has a washer and nut installed under the longeron. It has a special aluminum shim then washer then nut. It was easy with the fuse upside down but right side up, gravity is not helping. Somehow this has to be done in a space barely big enough to get my catcher's mit fingers in the space. The aluminum shim stays put pretty well without persuasion, but the washer wants to fall off before the nut can be slipped into place.*
I needed a trick. Neodymium magnet to the rescue. This time two of the uncoated magnets. Place the magnet on the bolt head. Slip a washer on the bolt and it stays put. Slip the nut in the space. Say a prayer to the Nut Gods. Stick your toungue out so words don't offend same Gods, then gently rotate the bolt with an open end wrench (magnets are stuck on the bolt) till it grabs a couple threads.
Yes, I've heard of builders glueing the assembly then turning the bolt into the part, but one mistake there and a cross thread nightmare ruins the day. After years of wrenching in cars, I learned to always use human fingers to feel the threads engage properly.
 
Used the magnet trick more than once. The left aft baffle for my IO-360 has a lower inside bolt/spacer/nut securing it to the case. I used a zip-tie/hose loop to hold the spacer in place while the bolt was inserted, then used a magnet wand to hold the nut/washer and screw the bolt into them.
 
Beer

Larry you need to go down to the Wheel and have a cold one.

I did! Sort of. We have four craft breweries now. We tried out one, new to us yesterday. They have a special Mondays. Bring in a vinyl album for 50% off a beer. Excellent brews and the owners were playing with new flavors so the passed us samples. It was fun.
 
Larry...these RVs are definitely designed to increase our 4 letter vocabulary with certain bolt/screw, washer and nut placements. My comment to a local RV builder was to suggest marriage to an 80# Philippino woman with tiny fingers. His reply was ?mailorderbride.com?. This group always gives me lots of laughter in addition to the amazing camaraderie!
 
I'm suprised you couldn't hear my cursing all the way from Estes Park.
The Aft bolt (1/4") on each side of the 7 roll bar has a washer and nut installed under the longeron. It has a special aluminum shim then washer then nut. It was easy with the fuse upside down but right side up, gravity is not helping. Somehow this has to be done in a space barely big enough to get my catcher's mit fingers in the space. The aluminum shim stays put pretty well without persuasion, but the washer wants to fall off before the nut can be slipped into place.*
I needed a trick. Neodymium magnet to the rescue. This time two of the uncoated magnets. Place the magnet on the bolt head. Slip a washer on the bolt and it stays put. Slip the nut in the space. Say a prayer to the Nut Gods. Stick your toungue out so words don't offend same Gods, then gently rotate the bolt with an open end wrench (magnets are stuck on the bolt) till it grabs a couple threads.
Yes, I've heard of builders glueing the assembly then turning the bolt into the part, but one mistake there and a cross thread nightmare ruins the day. After years of wrenching in cars, I learned to always use human fingers to feel the threads engage properly.

Yeah, the frustration factor with those nuts/washers is right up there with washers for the control stick linkage! The ones under the slider rails are a challenge too.

My solution was to super-glue the washers to the nuts, and stick those to a piece of L-shaped scrap aluminum with double-sided foam tape. The aluminum scrap makes a nice handle.
 
Side Skirt gotcha

Not really a "gotcha" but a reminder to look closely at the plans:

When building your tip-up canopy "side skirts", remember to observe the 1 17/32" measurement from the aft skirt edge to the aft most column of rivets. I instead followed the "APPROX 1 1/2" SPACING" note and just kind of winged it. Only when I was about to match drill the skin to the canopy frame did I notice that the aft most row of rivets were too close to the aft edge of the skirt and could not be riveted.

Also, another case of whether or not to believe the plans:

At least on my canopy, in order to match up nicely with the front C-702 skin, the front edges of my skirts needed to be 3" and the aft edges need to be 2-3/4", with a gentle slope aft-to-forward in order to make a nice clean line from the fuselage skin. I suppose I could alternatively cut 1/4" off the top of the canopy skin "ears" in order to keep the side skirts rectangular. Don't think it matters.
 
This one's more of a heads-up and only a "gotcha" if you started out planning to use the "old style" nosegear but then switched to the new elastomer-based gear mount.

For the elastomer gear, Vans changed their recommended location for the throttle cable firewall passthrough. So don't use the old hole location (bottom center of firewall), use the new location in the firewall recess:



I had already drilled my firewall passthrough using the old location, and decided to try to use it. It eventually worked, but I had to 1. buy a larger cu$tom-length throttle cable from Spruce and 2. unnaturally snake it around the new mount.



If I did it over again I'd just use the new recommended location in the recess.
 
Contactors

This may not be a Gotcha but certainly annoying.
For some reason, Vans has a small doubler for the fuel line firewall pass through then the Starter Contactor sits partially on top of it. Plus the Master Contactor overlaps the Starter Contactor. Plans do mention relieving the corners to fit but the thought of replacing one on the road would require some field modification. This works better. I fabricated a larger doubler with a corner relieved to clear the Master Contactor. Photo explains it pretty well.
20210203_115656.jpg
 
This may not be a Gotcha but certainly annoying.
For some reason, Vans has a small doubler for the fuel line firewall pass through then the Starter Contactor sits partially on top of it. Plus the Master Contactor overlaps the Starter Contactor. Plans do mention relieving the corners to fit but the thought of replacing one on the road would require some field modification. This works better. I fabricated a larger doubler with a corner relieved to clear the Master Contactor. Photo explains it pretty well.
View attachment 7876

Annoying for sure. Luckily I saw that proximity issue mentioned by previous builders. When it was time for it I moved the FW fuel penetration 5/8" away from the contactor for clearance and just shaving the doubler corner.
 
This may not be a Gotcha but certainly annoying.
For some reason, Vans has a small doubler for the fuel line firewall pass through then the Starter Contactor sits partially on top of it. Plus the Master Contactor overlaps the Starter Contactor. Plans do mention relieving the corners to fit but the thought of replacing one on the road would require some field modification. This works better. I fabricated a larger doubler with a corner relieved to clear the Master Contactor. Photo explains it pretty well.
View attachment 7876

Why can't you mount the starter contactor an inch lower to get away from the fuel line?
 
Move parts

Why can't you mount the starter contactor an inch lower to get away from the fuel line?

Honestly, I didn't try. Every time I change Vans design, it ends up Hornets nest so I am trying to locate everything according to plan. It's not as close as it looks to the fuel line. If I slide it all the way over, there's at least an inch of clearance.
Plus I have the new mount and gear.
 
Here's a gotcha for builders going with the horizontal air induction system snorkel. If you follow the directions on installing the baffles, you'll end up with a beautifully trimmed set of baffles, including the front-left inlet ramp (CB-1002A). Then, when you go to install the snorkel, you'll notice step 1 says "NOTE: Do not trim the length of part 2 Left Front Inlet Floor at this time". Of course they are talking about one of the baffle parts you just trimmed. Save $25+shipping by not trimming that piece.
 
Been there, done that (few years ago). When I asked Van's support about it they sent me a set of the RV-14 baffle plans, which are much clearer, as a way of saying sorry.
 
Here's a gotcha for builders going with the horizontal air induction system snorkel. If you follow the directions on installing the baffles, you'll end up with a beautifully trimmed set of baffles, including the front-left inlet ramp (CB-1002A). Then, when you go to install the snorkel, you'll notice step 1 says "NOTE: Do not trim the length of part 2 Left Front Inlet Floor at this time". Of course they are talking about one of the baffle parts you just trimmed. Save $25+shipping by not trimming that piece.

Just about to start this section. Thanks for the heads up!!!!!
 
Main gear cotter pin hole

She has legs and shoes!
What a huge PIA. If you haven't reached this point, make note.
Install all the hardware before mounting the gear. Reason is there is a hole required in each leg for a cotter pin through the wheel nut. The gear is hard as rock. Drill the holes on the bench or press. Laying on the cold floor trying to drill two holes in each leg is horrible. I had to use a cargo strap to tie myself to the leg in order to get the necessary pressure on the drill.
https://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html
I used a ttansfer punch to get a perfectly centered mark. Use a new bit for every pilot hole.
20210325_120346.jpg
 
Reason is there is a hole required in each leg for a cotter pin through the wheel nut. The gear is hard as rock. Drill the holes on the bench or press. Laying on the cold floor trying to drill two holes in each leg is horrible.

Sorry to hear Larry that you had such a hard time. I found it easy, actually, but fully expected the PITA treatment prior to starting.

I drilled on the floor with wheels on. I screwed the nut to the tightness I wanted, marked the location on the axle of the two holes I wanted to use, removed the big bolt, ground off just a bit of the sharp edges of the threads at the drill points with a Dremel and grinder attachment (just a bit of a spot face), spin the nut back into position, and drilled with a fresh #30 using a slow setting on a cordless drill, and some gentle pressure and lube. drilled right through with little drama.
 
New Nose Gear

Probably not a gotcha but much easier to assemble if you alter the order. Follow the red numbers.
U-01407 first
U-00020 and Elastomer pads second. Bolt the assembly to the gear leg.
Install the gear by slipping the U-00020 Gear Link Assembly through and into the hole in U-01407 Elastomer Pad then insert the bolts and bushings in the gear leg.
Torque all the nuts and pin.
20210326_140943.jpg
 
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