Question on Bellcrank/Autopilot

When installing my roll servo, I discovered a discrepancy between Van's instructions and Garmin's instructions. Drawings are below:

Van's has you put a nut plate in the bellcrank for the bolt that holds the autopilot pushrod. This means that the head of the bolt is on the bottom of the assembly and therefore has gravity as an enemy. In addition, I'm not sure about using a nutplate and threads to hold a bolt that is responsible for holding a moving/rotating part. However, I've found that Van's usually has a pretty good reason for nearly everything they design. Drawing below:




Garmin has the bolt inserted from the top and is capped with a nylock nut on the bottom. This allows the bolt to rotate (if needed) and seems proper. I hesitate to install using this method until I understand why Van's has a different approach. Drawing below.



Most of the web sites I've visited for the RV-14 have the bellcrank/pushrod installed as per the top picture. Seems to me that the Garmin design is better.

Thoughts?

I wondered about the suitability of a nut plate for that application as well, mainly due to the moment applied by the servo pushrod to the extended arm of the connection to the bellcrank. I considered using a 1/2 in diameter spacer instead of the thin sleeve to make a more rigid connection to the bellcrank, but decided against it.

So far it's worked ok (250 hours)

Here's the Dynon version (for an RV-10, but very similar to a 14). See pgs 7-10 in this pdf:

https://www.dynonavionics.com/includes/guides/RV7-8-10_Roll_Kit_Instructions_Rev_H.pdf

In both the Garmin and Vans installations, the bolt and nut are tightened down to proper torque specs, and the bolt does not rotate, and shrould not rotate. Both installation methods use friction locknuts, in one case it is a platenut, and in the other case it is a regular nyloc.

The rotation occurs in the bearings of the rod end.

If the bolt needed to rotate, you would need a cotter pin and castle nut.

I suspect that the Vans installation will be easier to both install, and later remove if necessary.

My 2 cents. [BTW, why can't we do away with pennies and nickels, and round off to the nearest ten cents.....]

Personally I would have a bit more confidence with the nut than the nutplate. The cyclic load on the bolt/nut will be more than just tension.