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Planearound Door Guide Block Question

Kyle Boatright

Well Known Member
Any thoughts on how to shave the delrin guide blocks Planearound supplies with their latch kit? I need to shave 1/32 or maybe 1/16" from the guide blocks that mount to the doors. I understand that you want a tight fit between the door and cabin blocks to eliminate fore/aft slop in the latched doors, but right now, the doors won't close.

The other issue is how to shave them evenly while creating a presentable surface. A belt sander probably isn't the answer and I can't think of a safe way to do it with a tablesaw, router, jointer, or any of the other finger removal devices at my disposal.
 
I'm using a belt-sander. A timely question because I'm doing it this weekend. Once I get it nice and close, I may build up a thin platform of Flox so it sits nice and flat. Curious how others have done this step!
 
Since mine are already mounted, I have to trim the visible end. So it's gotta be pretty... And (at least in my hands) the results from a belt sander are not pretty. ;-)
 
Kyle

I am a bit puzzled with your request.
Can't you just move out the cam those 1/32"?
I know that it is a bit difficult to move the cam if you already have the pin drilled and fit, but if not, it's easier.

Carlos
 
Kyle

I am a bit puzzled with your request.
Can't you just move out the cam those 1/32"?
I know that it is a bit difficult to move the cam if you already have the pin drilled and fit, but if not, it's easier.

Carlos

It isn't a cam issue.

The issue is the pin guide blocks on the doors hit the pin receiver blocks which are mounted to the cabin. This prevents the doors from closing. There is 1/16" or thereabouts of interference.
 
For such a small amount you could try a sharp file (new would be best). It would provide a better finish than a sander and you might be able to leave the blocks installed.
 
I was just working on the blocks today. My 12" disk sander from HF did a nice job of removing extra material from the blocks.
 
Sanding the blocks

Delrin should be easy to sand and you want to sand the bottom surface that is against the cabin top. On my RV10 I sanded a spot for them on the cabin top then sanded the bottom of the guide a little. Like you said you want to "capture" the door in place so it doesn't shift fore or aft.
 
I used the sticky backed sandpaper that comes in rolls, which is handy for long board sanders and block sanding. Stick it down to a flat surface (workbench) and rub the block into shape. You can progress through finer grits to get a nicer finish.

Dave
N102FM
 
Kitlog Entry

Sorry, Kyle, it took a bit to find this. Busy with a full teaching load. After reading it, the last line took me back. I trimmed the blocks after fitting using a grinder wheel on slow and then finishing up with a scotch-brite wheel for a satin finish.
 
I had my center delrin block machined concave for the center latch to clear. Could not get it nice and smooth with sanding.
Fore and aft play of the door is taken care of by close tolerance fit between door and door frame delrin blocks front and rear.
All the delrin blocks were molded into a flox base for good seating.
It appears solid and stable, but not flying yet.
Johan
 
Thanks to everyone who's posted in the thread. After ruining one of the blocks with the jointer, I've been sanding them with the belt sander and block sanders with various grits of paper. It doesn't look too bad, although the edges aren't as polished as I'd like.

As an aside, I'm trying to work up the motivation to document some of the things that are good features of the PlaneAround latch, but which I've never seen "in print". I need to go make some pictures and upload them to better illustrate.

If I find the motivation, I'll start another thread...
 
A final comment on this thread.

You can use a sander to shape the blocks. Then, use a scraper (like woodworkers use) to scrape the flat surfaces back to a shiny finish.

In lieu of a scraper, you could use a razor blade or even one of the blades from a pair of scissors.
 
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